You are not the only one.
Clearly there is not a general D750 design problem like some seem to claim.
D750 Light Leak videos
- Thread starter Vincent
- Start date
You are not the only one.
Clearly there is not a general D750 design problem like some seem to claim.
rocketman122
Senior Member
people confirming the problem. this is not a lens problem. no lens reacts this way. flare doesnt enter the camera in this fashion. this is clearly a light leak in camera
try shooting outdoors and see if you can confirm for sure it isnt happeneing. I laugh at those indoors lamp attempts to prove it isnt faulty.
and the person above clearly shows hes a noob. go outdoor and try it.
all of those indoor light video and attempts showed it in a faint way. try it outdoors like the guy did in the bvideo and the images I just posted and let us know.
a few who said "I dont have this problem" did a few more tests under different situations (not indoors) and came back to confirm the problem. the harsh line created in these situations would never happen with a lens. flare would be dispersed and shown as the usual flair we know. this is sever line thats a defect in camera. go out doors, shoot with the angles he was showing in the video and let us know. the indoor lights arent strong enough as the sun. indoor lights dont behave like the sun.
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rocketman122
Senior Member
shoot out doors instead. shoot a video clip and help in proving this isnt a problem. you keep shooting ceilings. who the hell shoots ceilings? I shoot landscape, people, still life. not ceilings.
Finding the angle the first time is hard but once you know how to trigger the effect it's easy to replicate. I'd be surprised if you see any of these leak shots taken with a long lens. It requires a certain curvature of the front glass which flattens out the longer lenses get. I have no short prime to test if I can do it with them too or if only zooms suffer the problem. Zooms have more glass elements which might it easier to occur.
I tried it while switching to DX crop mode and the pronounced effect disappeared. While the veiling flare of the light still washes out the colors and contrast, by using only a part of the sensor, it fully washes out instead of the internal part blocking that light and creating a stronger effect. This time I used the 35mm prime and it occurred too. The only difference is that the flatter the front element, the closer to the light source I need to be.
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rocketman122
Senior Member
whatever. youre more about talk and shooting ceilings. more and more are confimring the issue when theyre shooting outdoors, not celining and upside down. gimme a break Jsee.
Seriously?
It doesn't matter if I shoot indoors or outdoors, all I need is a light source above to replicate this. It's winter here and the sun is weaker than my kitchen light. Take your cam, whatever the type, put on a wide zoom and make this happen yourself. Maybe then you understand the problem.
I showed the very first D3300 light leak by doing the same thing all those simpletons are doing with their D750.
Btw, why are you crying about a problem with a cam you didn't even buy? I bought it so if there is anyone having earned the right to cry about any problem it has, it is me. I ain't coz I'm smart like that.
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These are the last shots I'm gonna post. If someone still doesn't understand what happens and why, I fear I'll leave that child behind.
The only difference is that I have to turn the D3300 upside down to make the light hit the element inside that partly blocks the veiling flare. That's probably why never anyone noticed the exact same thing happens there.
Anyone living in a sunny area right now, do me a favor, pick your cam, put on a short lens and replicate the light leak. You might have to turn it upside down or on its side to have the same occur. If the D3300 and D750 can do it, there might be a lot more, if not all.
The only difference is that I have to turn the D3300 upside down to make the light hit the element inside that partly blocks the veiling flare. That's probably why never anyone noticed the exact same thing happens there.
Anyone living in a sunny area right now, do me a favor, pick your cam, put on a short lens and replicate the light leak. You might have to turn it upside down or on its side to have the same occur. If the D3300 and D750 can do it, there might be a lot more, if not all.
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I suspect there might be a part inside that is installed exactly the opposite direction as the other cams. What my D3300 does upside down, the D750 does normally positioned. If this is the case, the D5300 should show the same upside down (pseudo) leak as the D3300. Any Nikon cam will probably display this behavior but it takes live-view to see it clearly. But without, it should occur to.
It's not a relevant issue either way since we'd not take those shot because of the wash-out.
It's like the Titanic hitting the iceberg and then arguing about the hull being ripped at the left or right side when the only thing that matters is the darn ship sinking.
It's not a relevant issue either way since we'd not take those shot because of the wash-out.
It's like the Titanic hitting the iceberg and then arguing about the hull being ripped at the left or right side when the only thing that matters is the darn ship sinking.
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BackdoorArts
Senior Member
Been waiting for the sun to check it across my 3 body types. Haven't seen it clearly in 2 days.
I took some quick shots to show the context in which this light leak occurs. That's what lacks in all those complaints. If you see that context, it's easier to replicate but it also might become painfully obvious what the real problem is of those others.
Here's that shot taken with the D750.
The brighter the light source, the further my position and smaller my angle relative to it can be. There isn't anything as bright as the sun which is why most of those leaks are shown in shots taken outside during a blasting sun.
It ain't the cam, it's the man behind.
Here's that shot taken with the D750.
The brighter the light source, the further my position and smaller my angle relative to it can be. There isn't anything as bright as the sun which is why most of those leaks are shown in shots taken outside during a blasting sun.
It ain't the cam, it's the man behind.
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Horoscope Fish
Senior Member
Using a Nikon 50mm f/1.8G I can cause this effect when using Live View but no matter how hard I try I can't get it happen in the viewfinder. I set my camera on a tripod and switched back and forth between the two modes: Live View clearly shows the dark band... Switch to the viewfinder and the band is gone... Back to Live View and the band re-appears.
No matter what I do, I can't get the banding to appear when using the viewfinder, not even a little. I don't know if this is the case with anyone else, but I've tried this both indoors and out and my results consistent.
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No matter what I do, I can't get the banding to appear when using the viewfinder, not even a little. I don't know if this is the case with anyone else, but I've tried this both indoors and out and my results consistent.
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Maybe it's when live-view is switched on, the mirror (or whatever needed) changes position to send the info elsewhere and because of that, it no longer partly blocks the indirect light hitting the lens. If I switch to DX mode, I also don't see it.
Four shots taken, live-view FX, 1.2x, 1.5x and live-view off.
Maybe our eyes adjust to quickly to see it in the viewfinder (or it is blocked on its path there) but it's there regardless.
Btw, either I'm imagining things or it really looks like there's a connection between the block and the DX mode.
Maybe our eyes adjust to quickly to see it in the viewfinder (or it is blocked on its path there) but it's there regardless.
Btw, either I'm imagining things or it really looks like there's a connection between the block and the DX mode.
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Horoscope Fish
Senior Member
I'm certainly no expert on such things and I fully admit I'm stabbing in the dark here, but this does not look like a lens reflection type of issue to me. I'm wondering if this has something to do with the mirror, or the mirror-box. In short, I'm starting to think this is happening INSIDE the camera body.
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People mistake "half of the problem" for the full problem.
If we ignore all this for a moment we know that if we take a shot like this, the upper part of it will wash out because we don't block that light. That's 101. What happens here is that instead of it fully washing out, a part of that indirect light is blocked on its path towards the sensor. It could very well be whatever mechanism switches to DX mode since that position is identical.
It looks like a serious problem because the upper part doesn't suffer what it should suffer with all cams; washed out by indirectly light. If I block the indirect light, the shot is perfect.
If I tilt the cam a bit more and expose it even more to that light, at some point that block is at a different angle and the upper shot is fully washed out.
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BackdoorArts
Senior Member
I'm with you on this theory. I'm wondering if it's some combine effect from the mirror being up and light coming in thru the viewfinder and bouncing around in the prism.
Has anyone tried to see if it happens with the viewfinder covered (I may have missed that)?
I could be completely wrong on this with the newer cameras, but always figured the mirror up blocked light from the viewfinder getting to the sensor/film plane.
It appears to be lens flare that is being partially blocked by a straight edge of something on the bottom of the camera body.
My 2 bits.