My comment was in response to Chris.
I'm betting the D3400 was on "auto-iso". Fixes most all (forced aperture) metering issues while using reasonable shutter speeds.
The exposure info is all visible in the viewfinder before you hit the shutter release. No need to wait for an exif to find the problem.
Thank you all very much. I think I failed to articulate what I was after, but several folks seemed to get that I couldn't understand why aperature priority worked so beautifully on my D3400 and essentially not at all (out of the box) on my D500. Obviously ignorance on my part, but thanks to those that stuck with me.
Several suggested ISO, but when someone indicated that the D3400 likely was auto iso (at least out of the box), that made sense to me. Going and setting auto ISO got everything working as expected. I am sure there are tradeoffs and clearly I have a lot to learn and there are other things to factor in, but at least now, I have some mechanism to get sharp photos without a lot of manual intervention. I want to definitely continue to learn, but I was going crazy, having spent that much money and feeling like I couldn't do the thing that gives me the most relief from anxiety.
I obviously have a lot to learn, but at least now I feel like I have some path forward.
Thank you for the suggestions.
With Respect,
mattie
Thank you all very much. I think I failed to articulate what I was after, but several folks seemed to get that I couldn't understand why aperature priority worked so beautifully on my D3400 and essentially not at all (out of the box) on my D500. Obviously ignorance on my part, but thanks to those that stuck with me.
Several suggested ISO, but when someone indicated that the D3400 likely was auto iso (at least out of the box), that made sense to me. Going and setting auto ISO got everything working as expected. I am sure there are tradeoffs and clearly I have a lot to learn and there are other things to factor in, but at least now, I have some mechanism to get sharp photos without a lot of manual intervention. I want to definitely continue to learn, but I was going crazy, having spent that much money and feeling like I couldn't do the thing that gives me the most relief from anxiety.
I obviously have a lot to learn, but at least now I feel like I have some path forward.
Thank you for the suggestions.
With Respect,
mattie
As a beginner, I used P a lot, adjusting the wheels to see what happened to the other parameters.
You can always put it in P and spin the wheels until your preferred A shows in the viewfinder, then if there's enough shutter speed you will get a useable picture.
i do understand the desire for A mode, I use it a lot to keep my cheap lenses in their good range.
Which mode/s do you feel most comfortable using now?Is it just me? I have a helluva time using A or S modes. Exposure all over the place. I could use some tips.
I use manual most of the time now. I thought maybe A or S might make my wildlife photography a little easier.Which mode/s do you feel most comfortable using now?
Is it just me? I have a helluva time using A or S modes. Exposure all over the place. I could use some tips.
I use manual most of the time now. I thought maybe A or S might make my wildlife photography a little easier.
Is it just me? I have a helluva time using A or S modes. Exposure all over the place. I could use some tips.
to get a clear shot you need to make sure your shooting technique is good , as a rule shoot the shutter at around what your focal length is on the lens times 1.5 for the crop sensor , so for instance if your shooting a shot at 300mm you need about 1/450 shutter as its really 450mm , when your shooting technique is good the vr allows you to shoot much slower shutters then focal length , i shot the 200-500 at 500mm so 750mm on the 500 at 1/125 and they were sharp but that is a lot of experience shooting