Dawg Pics
Senior Member
I haven't really used it but that doens't mean I wasn't playing with settings and turned it on. I will check it. Thanks
New D500: All Shots Blurry
- Thread starter bluegrassman
- Start date
Also check to see what metering mode you are using. When using "Spot" metering, you've got to be extra careful about where you take your reading. I would not advise to just use Spot metering and then shoot all over in aperture, shutter speed or P mode. Spot metering works best in manual mode with auto-iso turned off.
This might help you and @bluegrassman ....
Back in film days, A and S were a great advancement. Less 'wow' for me now . That's just me though, certainly they are still popular tools. I still use them under many conditions.
The problem I have is they take a little more awareness than I sometimes have. Assuming a fixed iso, you run the risk of hitting a wall in Shutter priority. As the light dims, your aperture will open, eventually hitting its lower limit. If you miss the warning, you will start under exposing as the light lessens.
Now for Aperture priority... again assuming a fixed iso, you have virtually no limit on the shutter speed the camera will choose. As the light dims, the shutter will slow. No warnings. If you are shooting at f8 in dimmer light, you can quickly find yourself with a shutter speed too slow for hand holding.
Auto iso can help with both of these conditions. Especially if you set a minimum shutter speed with the auto iso. On the other hand, there are times when auto iso is a terrible idea. Sunsets for instance.
My everyday mode for my big lens is manual mode with auto iso. I lock in 1/800, my safe handheld speed for 600mm and I lock in f7.1 (one stop up from wide open for better sharpness). Shooting this way, I am very 'automatic', yet I have tight control on my handheld settings. I am at good settings for any light conditions. No surprises with blurry or dark pictures. Some folks put an upper limit on iso when shooting this way, I don't. I'll take a grainy shot over no shot.
bluegrassman
New member
I wanted to reiterate my thanks, and apologize if I got snippy with anyone. Spending that much money (for me) and suddenly not getting the results that I was previously seeing was very stressful to me. Going for a long hike and capturing some photos that I can be proud of is what gets me through. I'm grateful for all of the suggestions. I read them all and I know all of the advice came from a place of trying to help me get better. That is appreciated.
I have a theory that the lower end cameras maybe focus more on making the canned modes more "out-of-the-box" for beginning shooters. Your average person wanting to take decent shots isn't going to shell out the money for a higher end camera. Once you get into the higher tiers, I think the expectation may be that you don't need as much handholding and they perhaps don't make it their primary focus to make those modes idiot-proof.
I have a theory that the lower end cameras maybe focus more on making the canned modes more "out-of-the-box" for beginning shooters. Your average person wanting to take decent shots isn't going to shell out the money for a higher end camera. Once you get into the higher tiers, I think the expectation may be that you don't need as much handholding and they perhaps don't make it their primary focus to make those modes idiot-proof.
Dawg Pics
Senior Member
@bluegrassman
It is all good, and you are right. The higher end, the more you have to mess with it to get it where you want it, and it just isn't the same as the other camera. You went from entry to high end pro. There are all kinds of internal tweaks, and the sensor isn't the same. In fact, I think a lot of us go through that. I went from a D300 to D500, and my first shots right out of the camera were not great. They just didn't act the same.
Anyway, I didn't mean to hijack your thread, but I figured if we are both having problems with the A mode, it might be a good place to gather information about it.
@nickt. Sounds logical to me, and part of me thinks I have problems due to expectations on my part. That being said, I had all kinds of issues today including AF, which just wasn't working for whatever reason. So, I need to just sit and troubleshoot. Thanks for your input.
It is all good, and you are right. The higher end, the more you have to mess with it to get it where you want it, and it just isn't the same as the other camera. You went from entry to high end pro. There are all kinds of internal tweaks, and the sensor isn't the same. In fact, I think a lot of us go through that. I went from a D300 to D500, and my first shots right out of the camera were not great. They just didn't act the same.
Anyway, I didn't mean to hijack your thread, but I figured if we are both having problems with the A mode, it might be a good place to gather information about it.
@nickt. Sounds logical to me, and part of me thinks I have problems due to expectations on my part. That being said, I had all kinds of issues today including AF, which just wasn't working for whatever reason. So, I need to just sit and troubleshoot. Thanks for your input.
In the example the shutter says one-quarter (1/4) of a second exposure.
Even with VR on that's extreme.
I can recall a "famous" photographer claiming he could get better pics than the next guy 'cause he could hand hold @ 1/10 second with color film. Me I stayed a 1/125 and hoped. A rule of thumb is the minimum hand hold is 1/focal length - 1/50 for a normal 1/200 @ 200 mm, 1/600 @ 600 mm.
Even with VR on that's extreme.
I can recall a "famous" photographer claiming he could get better pics than the next guy 'cause he could hand hold @ 1/10 second with color film. Me I stayed a 1/125 and hoped. A rule of thumb is the minimum hand hold is 1/focal length - 1/50 for a normal 1/200 @ 200 mm, 1/600 @ 600 mm.
LouCioccio
Senior Member
When I run my Basic Digital DSLR camera course this is the book I recommend to get. If you ever shot film (120/220 620 or 127 and even 126 instamatic or 35mm) this book will help. Once you understand the triangle of aperture, shutter speed and ISO (aka ASA for old timers) and how they relate to a proper exposed image.
Study the images that the members shoot and look at EXIF when you hover you mouse then you'll have an idea what they did.
Also set up the preview in that D500 to include the histogram it really helps.
Lou Cioccio
Study the images that the members shoot and look at EXIF when you hover you mouse then you'll have an idea what they did.
Also set up the preview in that D500 to include the histogram it really helps.
Lou Cioccio
East Bay Man
New member
Did you ever get your issue resolved? If you have questions, feel free to shoot them to me.
You should abandon the triangle. With today's electronic cameras the ISO has become as flexible as Shutter Speed and Aperature. And while the interaction is still _somewhat_ valid flexible sensitivity (ISO) is a better teaching tool than to consider it fixed.
East Bay Man
New member
But it's best to understand the tool one is using in order to get the best from that tool.
Welcome!
Please feel free to introduce yourself here - https://nikonites.com/newthread.php?do=newthread&f=35