You know, this gives me an idea. You feed me your RAW files, and I'll PP them for 5 bucks a piece. Oz
You should be on the gov.'t payroll for picking up so much trash!I still love PhotoShop and would never get rid of it. The content aware healing brush is worth the money. I was shooting a shot with my drone the other day and the ground was covered with trash. I was the shot I wanted but the trash was so distracting. With the content aware healing brush I picked up 20 pieces of trash in less than a minute. That saved the shot. A person got in your perfect shot. Just wipe him out.
What I do in situations like this is... I first duplicate my background layer (Ctrl/Cmd + J) and using the Quick Select or Lasso I make the big, easy selections of what I want removed. We just want to get the big chunks right now so go to the "Edit" menu and use the "Fill" option with "Content Aware". This should knock out the bulk of the problem pretty much. To clean up I use the "Clone Stamp" tool with verrrry soft settings.Wonderful tip - I had a copy of Nik Tools but had never used Viveza 2, fabulous tool!
Now a question for all of you Photoshop guru's out there.
I have a shot of a beautiful old oak tree, leafless this time of year obviously - but have three power lines passing through the branches. I've really tried with the 'content aware healing brush' but keep ending up with really noticeable jumbles where the content aware bit gets confused with the mass of bare twigs and branches resulting in a really unusable result.
What I do in situations like this is... I first duplicate my background layer (Ctrl/Cmd + J) and using the Quick Select or Lasso I make the big, easy selections of what I want removed. We just want to get the big chunks right now so go to the "Edit" menu and use the "Fill" option with "Content Aware". This should knock out the bulk of the problem pretty much. To clean up I use the "Clone Stamp" tool with verrrry soft settings.
Now we're down to the details and for very small areas you could probably get away with just using the Clone Stamp so see how that works. To do this detail work, I zoom in as far as I need to (400% or whatever). It's important this detail work be done PRECISELY. Watch out for repeating patterns and big areas of "smear" if using the Clone Stamp; both will look odd in the final output.
If you find yourself doing edits like this a lot a pen and tablet will be invaluable. I can't even tell you how much easier it is doing really fine edits in PS using a Wacom tablet.
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I just did one more test.
I shot JPEG.
SOOC
and some adjustments used Viveza and sharpening as well es define
JPEG is not that easy to pp but it can be done
Do you always shoot in JPEG?
No, I shoot RAW but just this was for some test to see how NIk does. After that test I know PP Raw is much easier and faster than JPEG.
Never mind I shoot 1 photo or 600 I shoot RAW. I am not sure should I after PP in LR safe the photos it to JPEG ( I do it until now) or should I safe the PP photos as tif, dng?
Wornish, sorry I meant also to add that, whilst I tried to view your image, all that I got was . . .
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