HDR Software
- Thread starter Browncoat
- Start date
ohkphoto
Snow White
Eduard, I posted an example in my gallery. mountain - Nikonites Gallery
This is straight out of Photomatix . . . no LR adjustments. You can see there's a lot of noise, still. (this is with the "reduce noise" option checked in photomatix dialog. (I'm not too proud of this image . . . I was hunting for "raw material" for HDR practice LOL)
I did put a vignette on the pic (adobe junk) and that one was so easy. It processed nicely and very little LR adjustments necessary, and it was shot at iso400.
I use LR 3.2 for most noise reduction, or Dfine 2.0. I find Dfine to be the better product EXCEPT with HDR stuff - - had some odd "ghosting" when applied to an HDR image. Again, I always consider "user error" first.
Thanks for taking the time to help me, Eduard
This is straight out of Photomatix . . . no LR adjustments. You can see there's a lot of noise, still. (this is with the "reduce noise" option checked in photomatix dialog. (I'm not too proud of this image . . . I was hunting for "raw material" for HDR practice LOL)
I did put a vignette on the pic (adobe junk) and that one was so easy. It processed nicely and very little LR adjustments necessary, and it was shot at iso400.
I use LR 3.2 for most noise reduction, or Dfine 2.0. I find Dfine to be the better product EXCEPT with HDR stuff - - had some odd "ghosting" when applied to an HDR image. Again, I always consider "user error" first.
Thanks for taking the time to help me, Eduard
How many images did you expose? If you have a wide range (e.g. 7 or 9 images 1 stop apart) you might want to "drop" the middle images (e.g. keep -4, -2, 0, +2, +4) and see if that makes a difference. I haven't personally seen a big difference but remember a conversation from another forum where that worked.
Browncoat
Senior Member
+1 for that. 3-5 exposures seems to work the best.
Simon Trott
New member
If you use a tri pod you will get better results..
if you shooting people in the snap .
the its a different ball game thats harder to do .
thats if your camera shoot s 3 bursts very quick ..
ive had some great results in playing with HDR.
ive got 2 HDR programmes im just playing with them now.
my new is
Photomatix.Pro
and my old 1 is Dynamic-Photo HDR..
il post some pictures see what you think ..
ps im new to this site so il see how it goes finding things ???
if you shooting people in the snap .
the its a different ball game thats harder to do .
thats if your camera shoot s 3 bursts very quick ..
ive had some great results in playing with HDR.
ive got 2 HDR programmes im just playing with them now.
my new is
Photomatix.Pro
and my old 1 is Dynamic-Photo HDR..
il post some pictures see what you think ..
ps im new to this site so il see how it goes finding things ???
Dee Dubbah Yew
New member
I've been enjoying software magic for several months. Using several programs I create multiple exposures then merge them with Photomatix. This gives "faux-bracketed" images.
There are some really interesting images hiding within my underexposed reject bin.
Last edited:
ohkphoto
Snow White
Hello, Dee
I love these two images. What lens did you use for the first one and is this "focus stacking"? What programs do you use to "create several exposures" --if you don't mind sharing?
Dee Dubbah Yew
New member
I usually use a Nikon D100 but it just happens that these two were from automatic cameras. Glad you enjoyed the images. The windshield shot is with my Coolpix P90.
Exif data is as follows-
Shutter Speed,1/178
F-Stop,4.0
ISO Speed,64
Resolution (DPI),300
Lens Focal Length,4.59
The foggy scene is from my husband's point and shoot Kodak, to my surprise!
Shutter Speed,1/468
F-Stop,2.7
ISO Speed,80
Resolution (DPI),300
Lens Focal Length,6.0
I'm not familiar with "focus stacking" but I would love for you to enlighten me. HP Photosmart is what I usually use to create and save multiple exposures only because it is such a simple program. I've also used Photoshop (it bogs down my already bogged PC with its huge size) and my new favorite program is Capture NX2.
My successes have been with underexposed photos with good composition. "Perfect" photos don't seem to improve with HDR processing and neither do brilliant blue skies or waters.
I viewed some of your photos; I admire your work. I am just beginning to post as I learn the workings of this site.
Exif data is as follows-
Shutter Speed,1/178
F-Stop,4.0
ISO Speed,64
Resolution (DPI),300
Lens Focal Length,4.59
The foggy scene is from my husband's point and shoot Kodak, to my surprise!
Shutter Speed,1/468
F-Stop,2.7
ISO Speed,80
Resolution (DPI),300
Lens Focal Length,6.0
I'm not familiar with "focus stacking" but I would love for you to enlighten me. HP Photosmart is what I usually use to create and save multiple exposures only because it is such a simple program. I've also used Photoshop (it bogs down my already bogged PC with its huge size) and my new favorite program is Capture NX2.
My successes have been with underexposed photos with good composition. "Perfect" photos don't seem to improve with HDR processing and neither do brilliant blue skies or waters.
I viewed some of your photos; I admire your work. I am just beginning to post as I learn the workings of this site.
ohkphoto
Snow White
Thanks for sharing the info.
Focus stacking is used to increase the available depth of field in a shot. e.g. you just can't get the required DOF no matter what aperture you use, or where you are using fairly open apertures to minimize diffraction softening but still want significant DOF. You process several images at different points of focus (kind of like HDR with several exposures). There is software out there that will do it for you although photoshop will work, too, although a little cumbersome.
Dee, your work is proof that "fancy equipment" does not a photographer or artist make. Super job! I'm looking forward to seeing more of your photos.
Best Regards
Focus stacking is used to increase the available depth of field in a shot. e.g. you just can't get the required DOF no matter what aperture you use, or where you are using fairly open apertures to minimize diffraction softening but still want significant DOF. You process several images at different points of focus (kind of like HDR with several exposures). There is software out there that will do it for you although photoshop will work, too, although a little cumbersome.
Dee, your work is proof that "fancy equipment" does not a photographer or artist make. Super job! I'm looking forward to seeing more of your photos.
Best Regards