Who's going to shoot the Total Eclipse?

hark

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I used a 28-300mm Nikon lens... it's a 77mm filter size. I use Cokin P filters... and have 3 ND filters... I think they're an ND2, ND4 and an ND6... I tried all three stacked, and it wasn't enough. I ordered a 77mm Ice ND1000 off Amazon for $15ish... so I screwed on the ND1000, and then added the Cokins to the front of that...that, theoretically is 22 stops... but they're all cheap knockoffs so I can't attest to their accuracy... I want to hand hold because this lens has VR, and I'm extremely hesitant to lock the camera down to a locked focus position aiming my sensor at the sun... so I wanted fast shutter... I started at /14000... turned my ISO down to lo.1 (iso 50) and started working back from f28... This is on the D600 full frame... This configuration seems to be my sweet spot... I did have to adjust the temp in the white balance in LR to get from a white sun to an orange one... The fast shutter also produces the black background... when I was shooting slower, I was getting some cloud wisps in the image and the sun was blowing out...

Wait...your shutter speed was 1/1600" with all the neutral density filters added to the front? And how is your sensor after taking all these photos, Fred?

And for anyone, if using a DX body, will that affect anything compared to an FX? :confused: I'm just wondering how my 300mm lens on my D7100 might work with two 10-stop ND filters....
 

Fred Kingston

Senior Member
Yes... Like I said, I'd been stacking everything, and still getting blown out images... and turning down the white/highlights wasn't doing it... THAT direct sun is bright... I wasn't getting anywhere until I cranked the speed down... which also greatly improved the image quality... Remember 2X the focal length... if hand holding, and your 300mm on a crop sensor is lookin' at 450mm so you want to be at least 1/1000... if my math is correct...

The crop camera will only increase the focal length... it won't change the exposure values.
 

hark

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Yes... Like I said, I'd been stacking everything, and still getting blown out images... and turning down the white/highlights wasn't doing it... THAT direct sun is bright... I wasn't getting anywhere until I cranked the speed down... which also greatly improved the image quality... Remember 2X the focal length... if hand holding, and your 300mm on a crop sensor is lookin' at 450mm so you want to be at least 1/1000... if my math is correct...

The crop camera will only increase the focal length... it won't change the exposure values.

Thanks again, Fred!
 

Bikerbrent

Senior Member
Keep in mine that ND filters are designed to block visible light. They may or may not block invisible UV and Infrared light. If they don't block this invisible light, you could still blind yourself and damage your camera if you look through the viewfinder. If you use live view, you could still damage the sensor. Do a google search for "ND filter for solar eclipse photography"
 

hark

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Keep in mine that ND filters are designed to block visible light. They may or may not block invisible UV and Infrared light. If they don't block this invisible light, you could still blind yourself and damage your camera if you look through the viewfinder. If you use live view, you could still damage the sensor. Do a google search for "ND filter for solar eclipse photography"

I understand what you're saying, but my biggest concern is wondering whether or not the eclipse poses any additional problems that aren't normally there when taking photos that include the sun. And what I mean by that is this...during the eclipse, are the visible sun rays that extend on the sides of the moon in a landscape photo more powerful than normal landscape photos that include the sun? And I'm guessing the answer to that is no.

If anyone is going to take prolonged sun photos (either photos with longer exposure times and/or a high number of sun photos), then my guess is those have the ability to damage the camera as well as our eyes. But if the settings are dialed in (while the lens cap remains in place) and the focus set manually, it shouldn't pose a problem if the shutter speed is really fast...and if only a few photos are taken NOT in quick succession. Putting the lens cap back on immediately after every photo would be important so as not to fry the closed shutter inside. Either here or in a Facebook group, I saw an image of someone's shutter (DSLR with the lens removed). There was a greenish pinhole through the shutter. He loaned his DSLR to his brother to take sun photos. I certainly wouldn't want to get to that point! :nightmare: And no one should look through the viewfinder at the sun.

@FredKingston 's configurations sound plausible and safe if using a very high number of ND stops. 1/1600" shutter speed for a few photos not taken in quick succession *should* be okay for anything I might try. Haven't totally decided whether I will take the sun photos as I'm hoping to get the church building with stars in the sky. I'm not sure the stars will be visible, but if I use an ND filter and slightly underexpose if the sky is somewhat light, hopefully some stars will be visible (not supposed to be cloudy here either). :cheerful:

Thanks for your concern, Brent. Overall, eye and camera damage is a concern, and it's something each person has to carefully consider beforehand.
 
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Blacktop

Senior Member
It would be great if this didn't happen almost at high noon, but instead during sunset. Can you imagine the great sunset shots one could take while the Moon is going across the Sun?
 

Danno

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I will be passing on shooting it. It should be near total here but I get anxious with this kind of stuff so I am going to pass.
 

hark

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It would be great if this didn't happen almost at high noon, but instead during sunset. Can you imagine the great sunset shots one could take while the Moon is going across the Sun?

Peak here is supposed to be around 2:45pm. Sunset would be awesome though! Do you know what the earliest time it will be visible somewhere in the US, Pete?

Can't remember if I posted this previously, but there is supposed to be another solar eclipse for the USA, Canada, and Mexico on April 8, 2024.

https://www.consumerreports.org/vacations/dont-worry-about-missing-solar-eclipse/
 

Blacktop

Senior Member
Peak here is supposed to be around 2:45pm. Sunset would be awesome though! Do you know what the earliest time it will be visible somewhere in the US, Pete?

Can't remember if I posted this previously, but there is supposed to be another solar eclipse for the USA, Canada, and Mexico on April 8, 2024.

https://www.consumerreports.org/vacations/dont-worry-about-missing-solar-eclipse/

Totality will be between 2:33 and 2;34pm around here. I don't know where the earliest time it will be visible in the US.

I'll be using the d500 with the 70-200mm lens at 200mm with an ND filter. I took a test shots and with a 50% crop it is big enough.

I shot it with 1/8000th speed (maximum) as not to leave the sensor exposed for any longer then I have to.

_DSC7408.jpg
 
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hark

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Since my area won't be experiencing totality, the peak time of 2:45pm will yield a crescent on the top part of the sun. I'm not sure that will look as nice as something before or after the peak which should give part of a crescent on one of the sun's sides.
 

Marilynne

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Peak here is supposed to be around 2:45pm. Sunset would be awesome though! Do you know what the earliest time it will be visible somewhere in the US, Pete?

Can't remember if I posted this previously, but there is supposed to be another solar eclipse for the USA, Canada, and Mexico on April 8, 2024.

https://www.consumerreports.org/vacations/dont-worry-about-missing-solar-eclipse/

Excerpt from Yahoo!
https://www.yahoo.com/news/live-total-solar-eclipse-first-cross-u-s-99-years-115636316.html

Millions of Americans are eagerly awaiting Monday’s total solar eclipse — the first to cross the continental United States since 1918. Yahoo News will be providing live coverage of this historic celestial event beginning at 11 a.m. ET. We’ll have real-time updates from Oregon, where the eclipse will enter the U.S. at about 1:15 p.m. ET, and live video as it moves across 14 states and exits South Carolina shortly before 3 p.m. ET. See the “path of totality” from your desk!
 

Pretzel

Senior Member
Totality will be between 2:33 and 2;34pm around here. I don't know where the earliest time it will be visible in the US.

I'll be using the d500 with the 70-200mm lens at 200mm with an ND filter. I took a test shots and with a 50% crop it is big enough.

I shot it with 1/8000th speed (maximum) as not to leave the sensor exposed for any longer then I have to.

View attachment 265670

ND1000? I thought about stacking 2...
 

Blacktop

Senior Member
ND1000? I thought about stacking 2...
No just a 6 stopper. Besides, once it's just the corona that is visible ,you won't need an nd filter.

Good article here. https://photographylife.com/how-to-photograph-a-solar-eclipse




Camera ISOISO 100
Aperturef/2.8f/4f/5.6f/8f/11f/16
Partial Eclipse (5.0 ND)1/40001/20001/10001/5001/2501/125
Baily’s Beads (No ND)1/320001/160001/80001/40001/20001/1000
Chromosphere (No ND)1/160001/80001/40001/20001/10001/500
Prominences (No ND)1/80001/40001/20001/10001/5001/250
Corona (No ND, Inner to Outer)1/2000-1/2 sec1/1000-1 sec1/500-2 sec1/250-4 sec1/125-8 sec1/60-15 sec

 

Pretzel

Senior Member
No just a 6 stopper. Besides, once it's just the corona that is visible ,you won't need an nd filter.

Good article here. https://photographylife.com/how-to-photograph-a-solar-eclipse




Camera ISOISO 100
Aperturef/2.8f/4f/5.6f/8f/11f/16
Partial Eclipse (5.0 ND)1/40001/20001/10001/5001/2501/125
Baily’s Beads (No ND)1/320001/160001/80001/40001/20001/1000
Chromosphere (No ND)1/160001/80001/40001/20001/10001/500
Prominences (No ND)1/80001/40001/20001/10001/5001/250
Corona (No ND, Inner to Outer)1/2000-1/2 sec1/1000-1 sec1/500-2 sec1/250-4 sec1/125-8 sec1/60-15 sec

Thanks! We're just a partial here in OK, but might try for one quick shot. Gonna ingrain it in my brain and be better prepared in 7 years... ;)
 

Just-Clayton

Senior Member
Hand held this shot yesterday. Live view Nikon 300s. 75-300mm/5.6. I also did a test with just the lens. I used it like a magnifying glass. At 300mm f22 the direct sun did put a spot on a leaf and warm to hot on my hand without my filters. With filters on The sun was barely visible through the lens. _NJT3788.jpg
 

nikonpup

Senior Member
looks like i got a moon shot :-( my landscape time lapse should suck, i did see a change in light but very small (thought it would be much darker @ 90%_1-DSC_2967.jpg
 
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