ultra sharp wildlife pics

H

Hobbit

Senior Member
in bright light its fine or seems fine, yes i really was that close as it was sat on a guys arm :)
 

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wev

wev

Senior Member
Contributor
As said, a better image will help us, but I see a lot of doubling from camera movement in the top and right hand background. Using +2 ec will also degrade an image considerably
 
H

Hobbit

Senior Member
wev said:
As said, a better image will help us, but I see a lot of doubling from camera movement in the top and right hand background. Using +2 ec will also degrade an image considerably
Click to expand...
didn't know that would degrade the image , learn stuff all the time, how does it degrade the image ? is it because its adding exposure?
 
wev

wev

Senior Member
Contributor
Hobbit said:
didn't know that would degrade the image , learn stuff all the time, how does it degrade the image ? is it because its adding exposure?
Click to expand...

It lightens everything and you loose the contrast of light and shadow that is as important to a 'sharp to the eye' image as focus. It also jumps the iso. Focus on something static with whatever settings, then push the ec up and the iso will follow. Interestingly, you can do the opposite to help mitigate higher iso -- go to -1+ in a normal light situation. You will get a dark image, but one that can be easily fixed in post, and the iso can be several 100 points lower.

A second point, if I be so bold. In your first image everything is almost uniform in tonality and contrast. In the second you have the opposite. Both are not idea for a sharp image, as you are giving the camera a whole lot to deal with trying to give you a 'good' image with its compensation coding. Sharpness often losses out as a result.
 
H

Hobbit

Senior Member
wev said:
It lightens everything and you loose the contrast of light and shadow that is as important to a 'sharp to the eye' image as focus. It also jumps the iso. Focus on something static with whatever settings, then push the ec up and the iso will follow. Interestingly, you can do the opposite to help mitigate higher iso -- go to -1+ in a normal light situation. You will get a dark image, but one that can be easily fixed in post, and the iso can be several 100 points lower.

A second point, if I be so bold. In your first image everything is almost uniform in tonality and contrast. In the second you have the opposite. Both are not idea for a sharp image, as you are giving the camera a whole lot to deal with trying to give you a 'good' image with its compensation coding. Sharpness often losses out as a result.
Click to expand...
so still loads of practice for me required, as well as trying to make the camera do to much , both the images are edited in post but i think i understand what your saying
 
wev

wev

Senior Member
Contributor
And you are using appropriate mojo, right? Personally, I swear by Dr. Augustus Wickett's Golden California Good Luck Powder (Pat Pending) applied liberally before every venture out. Gives me a nearly 10% keeper rate and I can't ask for better than that.
 
H

Hobbit

Senior Member
many thanks everyone , time to practice more - excuse to walk the canal in lockdown Wev not sure that powder is available in the UK , might be an equivalent ;)
 
Dawg Pics

Dawg Pics

Senior Member
Do you have a dropbox account? If you can put a couple of RAW images in there, people can take a look at them. I can send you a dropbox file request if you don't have an account.
 
Fred Kingston

Fred Kingston

Senior Member
Obviously heavy crop... then sharpened in Focus CK by Macphun Software masking in the bird and tree branch and foreground leaves... Noise reduced a bit in Lightroom... exported to jpg from Lightroom...

I'm guessing that +2 EC is not helping... I'd rather get the exposure correct than add EC in camera...
 
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