Stoshowicz weekly 52

Stoshowicz

Senior Member
Im sure thats true , but for birding , I would like some idea whether the pro's actually outweigh the cons. For instance , looking at sandpipers , even fairly close ,while I could tell that the overall profile of the wrsp was longer , I really couldn't tell if the bill had a reddish base or not or if the primaries really were longer than the tail. .. so I ended up taking a huge number of shots of what I think were almost all semipalms. Back when I was considering the 600mm I was paranoid about the focal length and weight etc but the doom and gloom about the longer lens wasnt warranted IMO. On the other hand , the canon sx 50 HS was indeed a major pain to use .
 

Kevin H

Senior Member
Im sure thats true , but for birding , I would like some idea whether the pro's actually outweigh the cons. For instance , looking at sandpipers , even fairly close ,while I could tell that the overall profile of the wrsp was longer , I really couldn't tell if the bill had a reddish base or not or if the primaries really were longer than the tail. .. so I ended up taking a huge number of shots of what I think were almost all semipalms. Back when I was considering the 600mm I was paranoid about the focal length and weight etc but the doom and gloom about the longer lens wasnt warranted IMO. On the other hand , the canon sx 50 HS was indeed a major pain to use .

Birder's use scopes for the lakes not bino's or camera's
 

Roy1961

Senior Member
Contributor
I have looked at these also, undecided about getting one, looked long and hard at the Celestron Ultima 100? then wondered what it would do if I got the nikon eye piece to attach my camera?
 

Stoshowicz

Senior Member
I have looked at these also, undecided about getting one, looked long and hard at the Celestron Ultima 100? then wondered what it would do if I got the nikon eye piece to attach my camera?
Are you pondering what kind of ' photographic -zoom level ' youd get with the combination ? or whether there is a Tadapter that will mesh the scope with the slr..

Im wondering what you do with the SlR when the adapter is on and you want to look through the regular eyepiece, and if the eyepiece is where the magnification happens .. then how is the scope changing the magnification.. I cant find a description of normal use and methods yet.
 

Spottydumplings

Senior Member
I have looked at these also, undecided about getting one, looked long and hard at the Celestron Ultima 100? then wondered what it would do if I got the nikon eye piece to attach my camera?

You could also look at the "Kenko Lens2Scope Adapter for Nikon Mount Lenses", which turns your camera lens into a spotting scope. Basically the magnification is FL/10; so your Bigma would become a 5-50x scope and the 70-300 a 7-30x. If you are already carrying the lens it would be a very lightweight solution for occasional scoping (possibly a good idea to carry a body cap as well for when the camera is not attached.
 

Stoshowicz

Senior Member
nice, going with a wild guess (with the help of merlin bird id app) this is a solitary sandpiper??
Merlin is going to have a hard time distinguishing all the Calidris from Tringa, I still do too on some , but this is a Least sandpiper.
FYI ...
A thing which I havent seen mentioned differentiating these two genera ,, Tringa , which has Solitary sandpiper, Yellowlegs ,and so forth,,usually has whitish dots along the tertials ,(it looks kind of like a steak knife to me...) ...which the Calidris sandpipers dont have .
( initially its hard to tell which are the primaries , vs the tertails , vs the tail feathers all bunched together at the back of the bird , such as they are here, but you can see the long axis of the primaries here extending as the lower wing border ,,with the tertials extending to cover them ,, all meeting at the tail tip which has white outer edges and is "horizontal "
The Tertials , in flight , really dont look they should make it to the tail tip ,, but somehow they do - when the wing is folded up.
 

Stoshowicz

Senior Member
Ive got myself pumped up to try something a bit new this weekend, Im going to try shooting at base ISO of 100 but not change my usual fstop or shutter speeds ,, and then adjust in Post processing. I think Jsee does this,, but although the physics sound valid , it seems very few people else actually shoot this way.
My reason is that I want to get more detail in the darks, and so far, conventional methodology just doesnt give me that. I took a shot of an anhinga at ISO 200 last week by accident and to me,, it looked like I saw more detail under the wings than I usually do. Shooting this way will have me somewhat, off my game , since I usually 'chimp' periodically to see if I am in the ballpark. But Im committed to giving this method a good solid days shooting. Im expecting blacker blacks and cleaner whites and less noise . ,, hoping for. :)
 
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