Nikon D80 owners
- Thread starter Curt
- Start date
More than likely but at this moment in time I need a second body and can't afford the FX body and lenses so I'll guess I will just have to make do.
Hopefully Nikon will keep backwards compatability on the DX lenses when this happens so they can carry on being used.
GonyeaGalleries
New member
Hi, Curt. I've got one too, and overall, I love it. Rather than buy it with the kit lens, I made a package deal with the store and got it with the Nikkor DX 18-200mm AF/VR zoom lens. I had read in reviews that these two items were a very good match. Let me say that I use this lens for everything, even macros. To capture butterflies up close, I set the lens to 200mm (really 300mm due to the 1.5x focal length multiplier) and move in to minimum focus, which is around 1-2 feet. (Of course, it can't fill a frame with an ant's head.)
I find the menu system reasonably well designed. I shoot in full manual mode almost all the time, no programs, and only use spot autofocus. I don't really trust the matrix focus system to pick the desired focus target for me, but with the movable spot focus target, it frees me from having to recompose while picking out what is to be focused on (as often times that subject lies on a rule-of-thirds power point). It is virtually grain-free up to 400 ISO, which isn't bad for a small-sensor camera. And the VR (vibration resistance) on my lens really works wonders. I tested this out by taking a hand-held shot (no propping) of a skyscraper at night at the ridiculous shutter speed of 1/4 sec at around 100mm, and when I did 100% zoom on the image, there was no motion blur whatever! And it was shot at ISO-100. Of course it was an extreme test, but, overall I do not need a tripod unless shooting at shutter speeds slower than 1/15 or 1/30 sec.
I've noticed some minor flaws such as vignetting with the lens (which goes away at f8 or higher), so I try to avoid shooting it wide open. And the focus could be a little sharper, especially around the outside. I use software to sharpen the image (where I can control where that needs to be done) rather than use the in-camera sharpening. Seems to give better results. My favorite filter with this lens is the polarizer. I use it on all sunlight situations except dusk and dawn, and generally use a "flash" white balance setting to take the blue tinge out of the polarizer. Polarizers greatly improve color saturation and sky/cloud contrast, while blocking annoying glare highlights that would overexpose. Another tip is when shooting in wide-dynamic range situations (e.g., bright light with shadows) is to set the contrast (in the custom optimization) to -2. It keeps the histogram from spiking at both ends, and I will just set the exposure to prevent overexposure of the highlights. Which is why I set my picture playback to "Highlight". That way, if the histogram looks good, I can be extra sure by looking for no flashing parts of the picture displayed in "Highlights". Anything that flashes is blown solid white. If you are shooting pictures that have little white objects in them (boats, birds, etc), it's easy to wash out their detail, so I play it safe and check on Highlights, and if necessary, knock off up to a whole stop if need be to retain that detail. I don't shoot in RAW mainly because it takes more time to develop the image (whereas most of my adjustments are in-camera at capture) and I don't have the software. I do fine in JPEG. And since the RAW in this camera is compressed anyway, I don't know how much more I would gain in image quality by using it.
Have fun with your D80. I certainly do!
Art
I find the menu system reasonably well designed. I shoot in full manual mode almost all the time, no programs, and only use spot autofocus. I don't really trust the matrix focus system to pick the desired focus target for me, but with the movable spot focus target, it frees me from having to recompose while picking out what is to be focused on (as often times that subject lies on a rule-of-thirds power point). It is virtually grain-free up to 400 ISO, which isn't bad for a small-sensor camera. And the VR (vibration resistance) on my lens really works wonders. I tested this out by taking a hand-held shot (no propping) of a skyscraper at night at the ridiculous shutter speed of 1/4 sec at around 100mm, and when I did 100% zoom on the image, there was no motion blur whatever! And it was shot at ISO-100. Of course it was an extreme test, but, overall I do not need a tripod unless shooting at shutter speeds slower than 1/15 or 1/30 sec.
I've noticed some minor flaws such as vignetting with the lens (which goes away at f8 or higher), so I try to avoid shooting it wide open. And the focus could be a little sharper, especially around the outside. I use software to sharpen the image (where I can control where that needs to be done) rather than use the in-camera sharpening. Seems to give better results. My favorite filter with this lens is the polarizer. I use it on all sunlight situations except dusk and dawn, and generally use a "flash" white balance setting to take the blue tinge out of the polarizer. Polarizers greatly improve color saturation and sky/cloud contrast, while blocking annoying glare highlights that would overexpose. Another tip is when shooting in wide-dynamic range situations (e.g., bright light with shadows) is to set the contrast (in the custom optimization) to -2. It keeps the histogram from spiking at both ends, and I will just set the exposure to prevent overexposure of the highlights. Which is why I set my picture playback to "Highlight". That way, if the histogram looks good, I can be extra sure by looking for no flashing parts of the picture displayed in "Highlights". Anything that flashes is blown solid white. If you are shooting pictures that have little white objects in them (boats, birds, etc), it's easy to wash out their detail, so I play it safe and check on Highlights, and if necessary, knock off up to a whole stop if need be to retain that detail. I don't shoot in RAW mainly because it takes more time to develop the image (whereas most of my adjustments are in-camera at capture) and I don't have the software. I do fine in JPEG. And since the RAW in this camera is compressed anyway, I don't know how much more I would gain in image quality by using it.
Have fun with your D80. I certainly do!
Art
Actually, I just bought the 50 mm 1.4D and I hope that it solves the problem. It has been great so far, but I have not had much real use.
My concern is that it seems that I am getting noise if I go over ISO 800 and I understand that the D300S have very good results in the ISO 1,600 range. I do not want to spend the money, but just checking my options.
My concern is that it seems that I am getting noise if I go over ISO 800 and I understand that the D300S have very good results in the ISO 1,600 range. I do not want to spend the money, but just checking my options.
Essence of Imagery
New member
Curt, are you not counting the monitor as a light source? Personally I use my f/1.8 lenses to manipulate the DOF on an image more than constantly rely on it solely for low lighting conditions.
Great pictures and these comments all support that I bought a great lens for low light. By the way, I love the lens and I have been happy with the camera.
I actually have not encountered the type of low light I am concerned about since I bought the lens. My daughter dances and at recitals the light is low and I think I need a speed of greater than 1/125th to get rid of the blur. As ya'll may know, flash is out of the question. This lens should solve the problem as I got okay pictures with a Tamron 17-50 2.8 shooting at ISO 800 and 1/90th of a second.
Okay, is Essence of Imagery suggesting the D300S would help? I notice that you are using a D300?
I actually have not encountered the type of low light I am concerned about since I bought the lens. My daughter dances and at recitals the light is low and I think I need a speed of greater than 1/125th to get rid of the blur. As ya'll may know, flash is out of the question. This lens should solve the problem as I got okay pictures with a Tamron 17-50 2.8 shooting at ISO 800 and 1/90th of a second.
Okay, is Essence of Imagery suggesting the D300S would help? I notice that you are using a D300?
97Premiers
New member
Hi from Beijing - first time poster. I have had my D80 since my old CANON 300D met a watery death in Canada two summers ago. Love the D80 - the best camera I have ever owned. I have the 18 - 200 VR, 50mm 1.4D Prime and recently purchased the 70-200 telephoto.
I have toyed with the idea of upgrading to the D700 but at this point with excellent glass out front it does a fantastic job - the only limitation is me!
I have toyed with the idea of upgrading to the D700 but at this point with excellent glass out front it does a fantastic job - the only limitation is me!
Welcome from Canada to the site, the D80 is a great camera body. With good glass out front it does indeed a fanastic job of taking great photos.
I have a D200 and a D80, very happy with both of them. Going to a D700 would be some upgrade...lol. Looking forward to seeing your posted worked with that D80.
I have a D200 and a D80, very happy with both of them. Going to a D700 would be some upgrade...lol. Looking forward to seeing your posted worked with that D80
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97Premiers
New member
Here's one from the weekend with the 70 - 200, cropped from about 50metres.
Hi, I own a D80 and no doubt, it is a fantastic camera, good value for money. For a beginner or even a semi professional, it has enough features in it and I wonder whether we do make use of all the available features. can you tell me what specific advantage you have in using a battery grip? I have not used one.
97Premiers
New member
Hard to justify the expense of the 700, seriously looking at the 300S but still keeping the D80. I need better performance in poor light conditions.