Nikkor 35mm 1.8 G
- Thread starter amonamarth
- Start date
amonamarth
Senior Member
Yes, they are 
Congratulations, I like the lens, I'm still "learning" it but I can see it becoming the lens that stay in the camera the longest. Regarding the 55, I was thinking to skip it and get the 85mm, 1.8
There is no place like 127.0.0.1
Congratulations, I like the lens, I'm still "learning" it but I can see it becoming the lens that stay in the camera the longest. Regarding the 55, I was thinking to skip it and get the 85mm, 1.8There is no place like 127.0.0.1
amonamarth
Senior Member
Jeff, my master plan for lenses is 35mm(1.8), 85mm(1.8), then get a wide angle, I've heard good things about the tokina 11-16, I think it is..
... Then ... Long into the future, get into teles
There is no place like 127.0.0.1
... Then ... Long into the future, get into teles
There is no place like 127.0.0.1
Stangman98
Senior Member
I have the 35 & 50 and will most likely get the 85 as well. I love the 35 & 50. Both AWESOME lenses
I think it is typical. My 50 and 35 are much tighter than all my other lenses. Go figure… But they work just fine.
Hi Jeff If you set it at f16 do you lose the near focus detail?
I am not real familiar with the G's but generally speaking as you stop a lens down you gain more DOF so my guess would be no you don't lose focus detail if anything you gain. However sometimes when you stop a lens down to that degree you may get distortion so I could also be wrong. It also depends on what kind of focused distance you are talking about too. With the focused distance being say 1 foot your DOF with F16 is going to be from 11" - 13.5" or so. Focused distance being say 15 feet then the DOF is going to be from about 4 feet to infinity. These numbers are just approximations and do not represent the true values of the lens.
Back in the early days when film was the only option people had many 35mm lenses of all lengths had a different color for F8. The reason they did this was because many folks would set it at F8 and infinity and then forget it because the DOF would be such that after however many few feet everything would be in perfect focus. So that eliminated the issue of focusing the lens for most pictures, it eliminated the need to set your stop, and so all you had to do was meter the situation real fast and set the shutter speed. Just as now back then lots of people turned to the old 110 Kodak cameras and what not because 35mm was just to damn complicated for them. In reality it is not complicated at all once you understand a few things about it. And this is why they invented auto everything cameras and eventually digital P&S rigs...people are just lazy they want everything done for them and done instantly which is OK I guess. Not me I would almost try to rub two sticks together to start a fire instead of using matches when it comes to camera settings. I'm just hard headed that way but because of that I can pick up almost any camera anywhere and use it competently. It took me all of about 2 minutes to know my D5000 when I first got it.
Back in the early days when film was the only option people had many 35mm lenses of all lengths had a different color for F8. The reason they did this was because many folks would set it at F8 and infinity and then forget it because the DOF would be such that after however many few feet everything would be in perfect focus. So that eliminated the issue of focusing the lens for most pictures, it eliminated the need to set your stop, and so all you had to do was meter the situation real fast and set the shutter speed. Just as now back then lots of people turned to the old 110 Kodak cameras and what not because 35mm was just to damn complicated for them. In reality it is not complicated at all once you understand a few things about it. And this is why they invented auto everything cameras and eventually digital P&S rigs...people are just lazy they want everything done for them and done instantly which is OK I guess. Not me I would almost try to rub two sticks together to start a fire instead of using matches when it comes to camera settings. I'm just hard headed that way but because of that I can pick up almost any camera anywhere and use it competently. It took me all of about 2 minutes to know my D5000 when I first got it.
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AperturePriority
New member
To have the best thickness of DoF to infinitive of a given lens focal at its given aperture, you need to focus at Hyperfocal point of that lens. Here's the online DoF calculator you want to spend some time to play with it to get some ideas:
Online Depth of Field Calculator
It is a useful free tool to play with.
Online Depth of Field Calculator
It is a useful free tool to play with.
Yeah but not all lenses are created equal when it comes to these particular matters...and that DOF calculator is wrong according to the DOF charts on the literature that came with my Nikkors...I'd take things like web based calculators with a grain of salt...I mean why would the camera body make a difference other than DX or FX?
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AperturePriority
New member
Agree with you Jeff: For the varifocal lenses, they don't have true focals as claimed by manufactors. Only prime and parfocal lenses do.Yeah but not all lenses are created equal when it comes to these particular matters...and that DOF calculator is wrong according to the DOF charts on the literature that came with my Nikkors...I'd take things like web based calculators with a grain of salt...I mean why would the camera body make a difference other than DX or FX?
Therefore, the tool is generally applied for prime and parfocal lenses, not for varifocal lenses (zooms). Neither do I know why they make that difference between DX and FX. And as I said, It's a good tool to play around with to get the ideas about DoF and Hyperfocal Point. I don't see any difference DoF between DX and FX with a given focal and a given aperture.
amonamarth
Senior Member
Interesting link, regarding DoF. Thanks.
My answer above is really not the best answer for your question...one of the things that AP said..."To have the best thickness of DoF to infinitive of a given lens focal at its given aperture, you need to focus at Hyperfocal point of that lens." is really more pertinent to your question. AP is right....in order to maximize your DOF and get the best near focus detail and get the objects that are farther away in focus too is to do exactly as he says and refocus on the furthest limit of the DOF...you'll get the most detail and the sharpest pictures this way as opposed to setting the lens at infinity and blasting. I am not very good at this at all...I would have to chimp the shot and in doing so probably would lose the good one. I need to work on my lenses more and get to know them better in this regard.
Here is my take on this. From what I was taught, DOF is dependent on a few things.
1-The distance from the lens to the IF (in focus) subject. The closer the subject is from the lens, the less DOF there will be
2- The focal length of the lens. The longer the focal length, the less DOF. This is where we say that you will have more DOF with DX since to have the equivalent view, the DX lens should be 1.5 times shorter.
3- The aperture. The smaller the aperture, the more DOF.
This is about all there is to it plus practice to understand how this translate into real photography.
AperturePriority
New member
The difference in image sensor sizes doesn't make difference in DoF of glasses. Image sensor sizes/formats only change FOV of lenses that make us to move closer or further for taking a same picture. Think of a Nikon D3 body with a given lens mount on it. It doesn't matter how you choose the format in the body D3, DoF of that given lens does not change at given aperture and at a given focus distance.