Need a camera and fully confused

RocketCowboy

Senior Member
Can I ask why the extra pixels make camera shake worse?

The analogy I heard was like looking through a longer focal length lens ... any shake becomes more apparent. I've also heard that the higher pixel count makes lens resolution more apparent. I've been meaning to test that theory as well by comparing my older 135mm f/2 Nikon prime against the Sigma 135mm f/1.4 ART to see just how these two compare when pixel peeping.
 

sampochin

New member
The analogy I heard was like looking through a longer focal length lens ... any shake becomes more apparent. I've also heard that the higher pixel count makes lens resolution more apparent. I've been meaning to test that theory as well by comparing my older 135mm f/2 Nikon prime against the Sigma 135mm f/1.4 ART to see just how these two compare when pixel peeping.

The shake thing is probably true, with telescopes even a small vibration on the ground wobbles the image


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theregsy

Senior Member
I have never seen a indoor or out door catalog shoot that did not involve augmented light. It has nothing to do with being incompetent for needing it, it is about getting what the art director expects. Hundreds of final images including in the catalog will have a set style so there is consistency between catalog items. Please forward the contact information for the pro commercial photographers you know who do not use augmented light for catalog....maybe they have some secret the thousands of fashion shooters don't know about. Telling the OP he does not need lighting for his task has the danger that he might believe you and waste his whole project schedule and money.



I have also never seen a cover shot for a major publication done without augmented light. Are you forgetting what the OP's requirements are, what is trying to do? With all natural like no two images will have the same lighting let alone hundreds of catalog items. I was involved with dozens of record album cover shoots for major label releases and even those with the plan to appear natural, outdoors, were anything but all natural.
No question the D700 was a fine camera, but why spend more and get less solid files? It does not make sense, everything since that era has eclipsed the image quality of the D700 in DR, color depth, color fidelity, shadow recovery, resolution, data transfer rates, improvements in tethering(used in most commercial studio photography) and more. My suggestion for crop is based on the needs of the task plus budget of $2000. All quality Fx lenses are going to kill that budget.


Yes, repairability is an important deciding point for any business that will depend on a tool and physical asset. Why argue points that are just common sense and standard practice for a business? If you have had no repair issues, that is good for you, but it is not the norm, you have been lucky.

It appears you want to argue about your preferences and not the OP's needs, budget and task solution. By using standard industry practice, of using good light, both the high cost of a top camera and top lenses is avoided. Great light trumps cameras and lenses for impact on the final result. And $200 in lighting beats the heck out of $2000 for a good fx lens, which with poor light would have to be used wide open, the exact opposite need of a catalog session where all details have to be within the depth of field, and stopped down to at least 5.6 but more likely f/8. These are not portrait sessions where shallow DOF is desired, in this case shooting 1.4 or 2.8 will result in parts of the clothing to be out of focus.
The only reason I am responding is to help prevent the OP who had a sincere question, from being sidetracked into spending more money and not getting the results he needs, for no reason. No one is suggesting you need to use lighting or use budget saving equipment so why try to derail him?

No my post was based on the fact that the OP at some point stated that he didn't want to spend a fortune and a large amount of the posts were off towards very expensive new cameras, I said that I knew a lot of pros who shot without flash, and I do, I said nothing about catalogue work although I have shot products in natural light with good results. My personal preference would be the new D850 but didn't see a point in recommending a very expensive brand new camera with a huge sensor when it wasn't needed for this post. We have obviously read the original request differently. I was trying to recommend a FF camera at a decent price point capable of producing images that would be of a good enough quality. Yes repairability is important, but so is reliability, and pointing out that I have had no issues with any of my bodies is not a bad thing, nor is the fact that I could probably send any one back to Nikon for repair without issue. But each to their own.
 

sampochin

New member
I tend to agree here, with the only counterpoint that I can add being that the 50mm f/1.4 can be picked up pretty cheap ... making it one of the cheapest f/1.4 primes to own. But still, I'd keep the compact size of the 50/1.8 and look to add another versatile lens like the 24-70/2.8 that Brent recommended.

Hey thanks for your post, I really wanted the 850 too but that's just because I love buying new tech! It was too expensive for me as a newbie. So I got the d750 in the end for £1200 new. I also bought the 50mm 1.4 g lens which I've been totally loving. I'm getting two soft boxes in this week and then the next thing is the 24-70 lens. Quick question anyone, if a lens is 24-70 or 24-120 does that mean when it's set at 50 will it perform similarly to a 50mm lens. I guess what I'm asking is will I get the kind of pictures I would have got from a 35mm and an 85mm lens? If the Answer is yes then that's a bit shit for me I should have just got the 24-70 in the first place.
I must say I've been pretty happy with the results from the d750 so far, especially after finding the WB button! Another quick question there a lot of different soft box lights on amazon. Should I just go by the customer reviews or are certain makes of lights renowned? Is there a certain brand that one should stick with?


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Horoscope Fish

Senior Member
... Quick question anyone, if a lens is 24-70 or 24-120 does that mean when it's set at 50 will it perform similarly to a 50mm lens. I guess what I'm asking is will I get the kind of pictures I would have got from a 35mm and an 85mm lens? If the Answer is yes then that's a bit shit for me I should have just got the 24-70 in the first place.
Yes, 50mm is a focal length and it will give you the same field of view regardless of what lens is taking you there. Whether it's a 50mm prime lens, 50mm set on a 70-200mm, 50mm set on a 24-70mm... It will all look the same through the viewfinder. But then not all lenses are created equal... So there's that to consider.

....
Another quick question there a lot of different soft box lights on amazon. Should I just go by the customer reviews or are certain makes of lights renowned? Is there a certain brand that one should stick with?
I've had good luck with just about anything from Wescott or Limo Studio. Westcott tends to be pretty expensive but it's top notch stuff.
 

spb_stan

Senior Member
Softboxes might not be what you need since they need to be back further for full illumination of a standing model. A Strip light or Stripbox would be more useful with clothing shots. The are something like soft boxes but are tall and narrow with several diffusers to distribute the light for the full height of the model so the clothing is well exposed for the full body length.
The advantage of a fast 50mm 1.4 lens is higher sensitivity to light and shallow depth of field that is often desired in portraiture and fine art. That narrow depth of field at the 1.4 aperture setting is exactly what you do NOT want in clothing and product photography but the 50 when stopped down to f/5.6 or 8.0 will assure the complete model is in clear focus.
A softbox or other modifier is just an accessory to modify the light distribution so you still need light sources. Studio work usually means strobes although with the right set up, speedlights can be used. Strobes come in various maximum power ratings and can be from $250 to $4000 a piece. They also need stands, a method to trigger them and some modifiers for the softboxes, strip boxes, octoboxes. These modifiers include grids, snoots, flags, etc.
Speedlights can be used also but generate a lot less power so more are needed.
 

Bikerbrent

Senior Member
Yes a 50mm f1.4 prime set at f2.8 will give basically the same image as at a 24-70mm f2.8 zoom set at 50mm and f2.8 aperture. But, with the prime you have the option of opening the aperture up to f1.4 which will give a much more blurred background if you desire this.
 

RocketCowboy

Senior Member
Good call @sampochin on the D750! That's an excellent camera as well, and will probably carry you well into whatever Nikon releases to replace the D850. I'm right there with you though on buying latest tech! ;)

Yes a 50mm f1.4 prime set at f2.8 will give basically the same image as at a 24-70mm f2.8 zoom set at 50mm and f2.8 aperture. But, with the prime you have the option of opening the aperture up to f1.4 which will give a much more blurred background if you desire this.

Exactly right. The other benefit to that 50mm f/1.4 prime is that it's smaller and lighter than the 24-70mm f/2.8 lens. The downside being that if you need to zoom in or out, you're using your legs to do it.
 
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