My SB-910 needs repair

nickt

Senior Member
I think others here have had the same experience as Fred. Hopefully Nikon has fixed your flash already.

If you don't already have it, you might want to sign up for a free UPS My Choice and whatever FedEx and USPS calls their version of the service. Between the three, I pretty much know as soon as a shipping label gets printed for our address. Great for companies that aren't good at sending tracking numbers.
 

hark

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I wouldn't get too impatient Cindy. Both times I sent something to Nikon, their web site and status notification systems basically sucked... My camera and lens had been returned before their status systems started showing updates... I sent a lens to Ca. for repair, and the first status update they ever posted was "Completed, Shipped Back". And that didn't appear until after I had the lens in-hand...

Since this isn't a warranty issue, I believe they will contact me for approval to do the repair for a certain price. Patience isn't always one of my virtues. ;) At least apparently not in this case anyway. :beguiled:

I think others here have had the same experience as Fred. Hopefully Nikon has fixed your flash already.

If you don't already have it, you might want to sign up for a free UPS My Choice and whatever FedEx and USPS calls their version of the service. Between the three, I pretty much know as soon as a shipping label gets printed for our address. Great for companies that aren't good at sending tracking numbers.

Thanks for reminding me I have a UPS account and do receive notices when deliveries are expected. I'm just surprised it is taking so long to log it into the system. I just need to know if the repair will cost more than the $149 they initially quoted without even seeing the flash unit.
 

hark

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This morning I received an email notification that my flash was logged in.

When I initially went through their web site to request the repair, I had to give my credit card info and authorize the highest estimate of $149 (which I did). In today's email, I received a PDF with an estimate of $171.19--which includes the $149 for the repair plus the cost of tax and shipping. It stated I needed to fill out the PDF with my credit card info and authorize this amount. Having had a previous problem with credit card theft, there was no way I would fill out the credit card info and email it back to them (email isn't the most secure form of communication) so I called to see if they'd take my credit card info over the phone. I had already approved the $149 cost so the difference wasn't that much more. The woman said the entire $171.19 was already authorized by my credit card company so I didn't need to do anything else.

If the status changes to HOLD, then I'll know they are out of stock on parts. Otherwise, it will get fixed and returned to me. So now I wait. ;)
 

hark

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It seems each time I try to access my repair status, I have to go through this screen with an email address which must notify Nikon that I'm checking. I don't remember having this show up when I sent in my D600 a few years ago. Please note this isn't a complaint--just letting people know how the process works.

nikon repair 1.jpg
 

hark

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Looks like they don't have all the parts in stock. I wonder where they get their parts from. :confused:

parts hold.jpg
 

hark

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$171 !!! holy crap thats insane.

Yes, it is expensive especially considering if I had removed the batteries back then, I wouldn't be dealing with this issue now. I need to learn how to do manual flash instead of iTTL because I have two SB-28 units that are perfectly fine. Unfortunately when Nikon came out with DSLR's, they opted not to be fully backward compatible with their own flashes.
 

rocketman122

Senior Member
btw, I no longer shoot ttl in weddings and many other I know dont either. the thing I can say about cameras is theyve advanced in everything except accuracy with flash and camera metering as well when shooting part/auto. I even shot my SB900/800/700 in manual mode. ttl is not consistent.
 

hark

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btw, I no longer shoot ttl in weddings and many other I know dont either. the thing I can say about cameras is theyve advanced in everything except accuracy with flash and camera metering as well when shooting part/auto. I even shot my SB900/800/700 in manual mode. ttl is not consistent.

You're absolutely right that iTTL isn't always accurate. I can take 2 consecutive iTTL shots and the metering isn't always the same even though nothing changed in front of me and despite the camera being set in manual mode. I've tried to understand manual flash, but for some reason I have trouble wrapping my head around it. I even have a couple of Neil van Niekerk's books but still get stuck on the basics of manual flash. :(
 

rocketman122

Senior Member
I didnt have a hard time with understanding manual flash, the only problem was learning to guess how much power the flash should be (judging by eye). in weddings you dont have time to adjust picture after picture to get the flash right. you need to look at a scene and know, according to the scene and your camera settings what you need. but its very simple really. just time to practice and know what the flash will give.

btw ttl is harder because you need to think what the meter might shoot with how your subject looks. like a white dress or black tux. with manual, you shoot and if the flash hitting them isnt bright or is too dark you can
-keep everything the same and just move in closer or further away, assuming composition for sull body/half body isnt a problem..or
-keep everything the same in camera and dont move but just up/down the power of flash.

manual is very consistent and when you know what the flash power is youre accuarate in every shot. ttl isnt. btw, another thing almost know one knows is that flash and AWB changes the kelvin of the image. thats why I adjust kelvin manually. awb wants to make the image too warm in certain light.

just like I was scared to understand how to manually adjust kelvin. I thought there was a green and red and blue to adjust as well and thought id leave it to auto. but then I realized its just too simple that I laughged after:

-too yellow/warm, lower the number
-too blue/cool raise the number.

and numbers I adjust is between 2500 (indoor with a lot of incandescent light)-5500 (usually late sunset and when im shooting family pictures in the shade)

I now adjust every image manually and its fast and easy and accurate. some venues I shoot have such yellow lighting and the awb would always make it completely yellow. but I now have complete control on making the image look aesthetic.

manual flash is very very easy. a book is more in depth than you need it to be. a person starting out cant absorb so much because he needs to practice those steps and it takes time to see the outcome. so jumping from basic steps to more advanced steps will confuse you. its like me teaching you about getting compression or to shoot me an exaggerated perspective or even selective focus to a specific shot when youre trying to understand about how to shoot a portrait. its too much.


but its very simple. go shoot a doll near a window. get the face at 2/3 side composition towards the light so the short side is lit more. same composition for all images. use a tripod so its consistent each frame so you can compare later. turn flash off. adjust for proper exposure so the doll is exposed like you like. now you want to add a tiny fill flash amount. so turn flash on, shoot. too bright, turn the power down, too little, add more. when I say add/lower, just up/down the amount a bit each time by 1/3 stop. if its really bright or not even showing, then adjust much more.

the harder problem for most is knowing how much to adjust to get the proper shot and in weddings you need to be fast so you cant shoot and adjust tons of times for that 1 shot. I learned from shooting so much how much power the flash needs to be at a certain distance at my set camera speeds. all I do is usually just leave it all the same and adjust myself to the couple. very simple. if I need more or less power, I adjust the flash and shoot.

now there are more variations than this. but the simple basic gist is stay at the composition, too bright, lower the flash power, too little, up the power. another option is not even adjust the flash but get closer or pull back from your subject ,if the composition doesnt matter, for instance, shooting half body or full body. since both are equally good , you can also play with the aperture or shutter or iso but stick with the first step. and btw shutter will not have a direct affect on flash but adding ambient light (what the shutter does) will make the whole picture light up. but this gets more complicated and more things you dont need to deal with now.

start with- simple basic gist is stay at the composition, too bright, lower the flash power, too little, up the power. theres so much more but a basic light properly shot I do is that. set camera and adjust my flash up or down. I get more complex in many other shots but 80% is this.

btw, I love the SB28. wonderful flash. but its a pita to adjust in manual. the buttons are annoying to use. the yongnuo 560III/IV would be perfect for a manual flash if those idiots would have added hss.
 
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hark

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This is still listed as being on Parts Hold. Guess I need to call them and see if they have an estimated time when it will be fixed.
 

hark

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Just got off the phone with Nikon's customer service. The woman could see my flash is on Parts Hold, but she couldn't find any comments listed under my account. She said she will contact the parts department to see how much longer it will take to get the parts then she will contact the service department to find out how long it will take to repair the flash once the parts are in stock. Once she finds all of that out, she will email me with an estimated time frame.
 

cwgrizz

Senior Member
Challenge Team
Just got off the phone with Nikon's customer service. The woman could see my flash is on Parts Hold, but she couldn't find any comments listed under my account. She said she will contact the parts department to see how much longer it will take to get the parts then she will contact the service department to find out how long it will take to repair the flash once the parts are in stock. Once she finds all of that out, she will email me with an estimated time frame.

Rip Van Winkle may wake up first. Good luck Cindy. I really don't like hearing stories about this kind of service. It has a way of creating a love-hate relationship with Nikon.
 

hark

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Rip Van Winkle may wake up first. Good luck Cindy. I really don't like hearing stories about this kind of service. It has a way of creating a love-hate relationship with Nikon.

I honestly never expected it to take this long. :(

This past Sunday I used my SB-700 in iTTL for some church photos. The iTTL metering is definitely different between it and my SB-910. With the SB-910, I could set it, and most of the photos were pretty consistent in their exposure. But my SB-700 left the exposure all over the place. Some shots were over exposed while others taken in succession were under exposed without changing any settings. Granted, I know iTTL isn't the most reliable for exposure, but when NOTHING changes from shot to shot, it was a pain.
 

WayneF

Senior Member
I honestly never expected it to take this long. :(

This past Sunday I used my SB-700 in iTTL for some church photos. The iTTL metering is definitely different between it and my SB-910. With the SB-910, I could set it, and most of the photos were pretty consistent in their exposure. But my SB-700 left the exposure all over the place. Some shots were over exposed while others taken in succession were under exposed without changing any settings. Granted, I know iTTL isn't the most reliable for exposure, but when NOTHING changes from shot to shot, it was a pain.

One difference is that the SB-700 is TTL BL mode, and the SB-910 has the menu, which can set TTL BL, but is TTL if you select the TTL menu. The brighter the area, the more effect TTL BL can have.

Indoors, you can set Spot Metering, which does NOT do Spot Metering for flash, but indoors, the ambient is normally too weak to matter what it is, always substantially underexposed (so we use flash). Spot metering only affects the flash by forcing TTL mode instead of TTL BL mode. But outdoors, Spot metering will affect the daylight ambient, probably in surprising ways unless you are really into Spot.
 

nickt

Senior Member
I honestly never expected it to take this long. :(
That stinks. When you pay top dollar for a repair to a major company, you should expect parts on hand for a quick turnaround and better details on any delays. Hearing your experience and hearing others with similar experiences, I have often wondered if Nikon really runs their own repair centers. The lack of information in their computers makes me think they are sending the work to an independent shop. It might be in the back room or it might be down the street, but there is a always a suspicious lack of repair details. That just seems not possible if they were fixing it in house. It smells of 3rd party repair to me. Not necessarily bad, but a small shop would not have the deep pocketbook of Nikon so they probably don't keep a lot of parts on hand.
 

Fred Kingston

Senior Member
You really need to learn how to use a flash on manual modes... It really is very simple... Digital cameras let you tweak the exposure in about 3 shots, and once you've done that a 1/2 dozen times... you'll be able to do it without tests shots
 
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