Horoscope Fish
Senior Member
You need a better understanding of how auto-focus works. AF-Mode and AF-Area Mode, more specifically: Autofocus Explained
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D3100 ISO numbers and F settings
- Thread starter DaveNewman
- Start date
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There is a 3D tracking focus mode, although depending on the moving object and the background, you may have varying success with.
When multiple focus points show up, the camera picks the best focus to suit those points. The focus modes are a HUGE subject - I recommend setting some aside, with a fully charged battery, and have a read through this:- DSLR Autofocus Modes Explained and cross reference it with your manual... It will explain things much better than I can.
Looking at the samples you posted, I don't think anything is broken, it is just a matter of learning the different modes and features of the camera. For example changing scene mode from close-up to sport to landscape will change the focus mode in your camera in a way you may not expect.
When multiple focus points show up, the camera picks the best focus to suit those points. The focus modes are a HUGE subject - I recommend setting some aside, with a fully charged battery, and have a read through this:- DSLR Autofocus Modes Explained and cross reference it with your manual... It will explain things much better than I can.
Looking at the samples you posted, I don't think anything is broken, it is just a matter of learning the different modes and features of the camera. For example changing scene mode from close-up to sport to landscape will change the focus mode in your camera in a way you may not expect.
DaveNewman
Senior Member
thats the D7000???
The modes are the same, just a few less focus points on your camera - Just read it along side your manual for model specific stuff. The link I posted is DSLR general info. The principals are the same.
In regards to the spider photos: auto-focus tends to go ballistic when trying macro. You only have a thin slice of sharpness at that level and the camera has no idea what exactly is required to be sharp. The more you zoom in, the less of your subject will be sharp, on average.
If you let the camera focus, it's push and pray. To fully control what you want to be sharp in macro, there's only one trick that really works and that is manually focusing your lens.
If you let the camera focus, it's push and pray. To fully control what you want to be sharp in macro, there's only one trick that really works and that is manually focusing your lens.
DaveNewman
Senior Member
last night was a huge change, well happy... set my M mode up 1/2500, f5.6, ISO 1600 and tested on my dogs, great pictures..... when i changed the ISO to 800 the pictures came out darker, so the 1600 worked perfectly. Shot all with
my 55-200 lens, pictures were a mix of moving and static.
my 55-200 lens, pictures were a mix of moving and static.
DaveNewman
Senior Member
is that the 1/2500 part?? as in lower to 1/1000 for example??? then i can bring the ISO down to 400 / 800
The shutter speed is indeed the 1/2500 part.
ISO is your sensitivity to light and the shutter is the amount of time you let light in. The higher the shutter speed, the less light your sensor gets. If you lower the shutter speed, you can lower the ISO which normally makes for better images. The higher the ISO, the more grainy but often you only notice when zooming in on the photo. It's usually best to try and go as low as possible with ISO.
You have to toy with it to see what works best.
For dogs I generally use 1/500s unless they're playing rough. Then I go up to 1/1000s. If they're not moving much, you can go down to a shutter speed at which you can comfortably take a picture. 1/60s or even less if you got a steady hand.
Remember, aperture also plays a role. The moment you change that, you may have to compensate it.
ISO is your sensitivity to light and the shutter is the amount of time you let light in. The higher the shutter speed, the less light your sensor gets. If you lower the shutter speed, you can lower the ISO which normally makes for better images. The higher the ISO, the more grainy but often you only notice when zooming in on the photo. It's usually best to try and go as low as possible with ISO.
You have to toy with it to see what works best.
For dogs I generally use 1/500s unless they're playing rough. Then I go up to 1/1000s. If they're not moving much, you can go down to a shutter speed at which you can comfortably take a picture. 1/60s or even less if you got a steady hand.
Remember, aperture also plays a role. The moment you change that, you may have to compensate it.
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Nice! It's one of those things where you feel like you're getting nowhere, then suddenly it clicks (Pun intended) and you are on your way! Like [MENTION=31330]J-see[/MENTION] says, you can experiment with different settings between shutter, ISO and aperture to get the effects you want.
Nice dogs too, I like the ears on the pup!
It's all about experimenting.
Aperture, shutter speed and ISO are the three most important parts of your camera, all the other options and settings are gimmicks.
Very simplified your lens is nothing but a tube that allows a bundle of light in.
Aperture controls the diameter of that bundle, shutter speed the length and ISO the intensity. Any of these three directly influences the others which implies you can maintain exactly the same conditions by increasing one while decreasing another.
Once you control those three, the rest is easy.
Aperture, shutter speed and ISO are the three most important parts of your camera, all the other options and settings are gimmicks.
Very simplified your lens is nothing but a tube that allows a bundle of light in.
Aperture controls the diameter of that bundle, shutter speed the length and ISO the intensity. Any of these three directly influences the others which implies you can maintain exactly the same conditions by increasing one while decreasing another.
Once you control those three, the rest is easy.
DaveNewman
Senior Member
think ive nailed it with the sports / moving pictures...
now its about architecture, landscapes and portraits.... any recommendations on setting to try on those on M would be appreciated.
now its about architecture, landscapes and portraits.... any recommendations on setting to try on those on M would be appreciated.
DaveNewman
Senior Member
with my work and all the new builds we build and school work extensions etc etc i need photos for our companies new website, so getting those correct is important...
i think once i get my head around the best settings for what i need (sports one is already in my head) keeping the camera on M mode will be easier.
i think once i get my head around the best settings for what i need (sports one is already in my head) keeping the camera on M mode will be easier.
In sports it all depends on how fast your subject moves and what the distance between you and that subject is.
If something moves at 20km/hr, it moves about 5500mm/sec. If you have a shutter speed of 1/1000sec, your subject moved 5.5mm during the shot. That's a lot but only if you are right on top of your subject. The more distance between you and the subject, the less impact its speed has.
If something moves at 20km/hr, it moves about 5500mm/sec. If you have a shutter speed of 1/1000sec, your subject moved 5.5mm during the shot. That's a lot but only if you are right on top of your subject. The more distance between you and the subject, the less impact its speed has.
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Horoscope Fish
Senior Member
Unless you are shooting in a studio, or some other situation where the environment doesn't change, you can't reduce getting consistently good exposure down to a simple combination of settings that will work every time. Photography is a constant juggling act of Aperture, ISO and Shutter Speed and until you really wrap your brain around what each one of those is, what it controls in your photos and how each one interacts with the others, you'll be doing little more than stabbing in the dark.
Take some time and read some of the tutorials on the Cambridge in Color website I linked you to previously. Their explanation of the Exposure Triangle would be a good start. The importance of full understanding these core concepts can not be over-stated.
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This is the best advice. I guess I am fortunate that I learnt these core principles before I ever had a DSLR of my own, by asking questions and learning from a good friend who is a keen photographer. That helped me to know precisely what I was aiming for and roughly how to get there. If I hadn't got my head around that I don't think I'd be enjoying photography and I certainly wouldn't be getting good results.
DaveNewman
Senior Member
can anyone give me a starting setting for landscapes using the 55-200 lens in good light and low light, so to get me going, then i can adjust as necessary??
ive read on the web this:
start f/8 then change to f/11 or f/16 if needed
ISO 100
metering matrix
SS set to 30secs
use A mode
ive read on the web this:
start f/8 then change to f/11 or f/16 if needed
ISO 100
metering matrix
SS set to 30secs
use A mode
To learn, have a think through each of those suggested settings.....
The aperture needs to be narrow (High number) to keep everything in focus. (Good for landscapes)
Matrix metering mode will meter your exposure over the whole frame not just part of it (Good for landscapes)
ISO, well lower is better, but use that to allow narrow aperture and a good shutter speed. Remember EVERYTHING is better using a tripod!
I don't understand how you could set a shutter speed, and then select "A" mode (Aperture priority)... A mode will adjust the shutter speed to expose correctly at a given aperture.
Of course, all of this depends on the scene, time of day, weather etc..... Read through the various posts, and take what you know about the three components of exposure (Shutter speed, aperture and ISO) and experiment.
The aperture needs to be narrow (High number) to keep everything in focus. (Good for landscapes)
Matrix metering mode will meter your exposure over the whole frame not just part of it (Good for landscapes)
ISO, well lower is better, but use that to allow narrow aperture and a good shutter speed. Remember EVERYTHING is better using a tripod!
I don't understand how you could set a shutter speed, and then select "A" mode (Aperture priority)... A mode will adjust the shutter speed to expose correctly at a given aperture.
Of course, all of this depends on the scene, time of day, weather etc..... Read through the various posts, and take what you know about the three components of exposure (Shutter speed, aperture and ISO) and experiment.