Circle B Bar Reserve Feb 2016 Meet 'n Greet
- Thread starter Marilynne
- Start date
so you saved the best for last, beautiful shot Pete, what's the bird? (going to Google now lol)
Nobody get the White-Eyed Vireo? I know I have some pics of it.
Now I'm really wanting to process the pics
Guess not.
Thanks, but it's more of a PP thing with NIK and Color FX. Here is the shot with my normal post processing.
Stoshowicz
Senior Member
Would you say the 750 is crisper than the 7100 ? , this does look really nice. Its a temptation to upgrade.. how good is the noise control ? as good as the claims?
Was thinking the same things.... No way i can get to this level with my setup and lightroom. Good stuff Pete.
Don Kuykendall_RIP
RIP :(
I have both the D7100 and the D750. The D750 is a big upgrade over the D7100 BUT you have to have the glass to go with it
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Stoshowicz
Senior Member
Im seeing the ISOs yall used out there werent all that different from the ones I use on the 7100, the 750 thread extols the virtue of the high ISOs , I see you said you still dont want to really crank the ISO. I do see the low noise value of ISO 12000 Backdoor hippie , presented , but maybe dynamic range is still sacrificed or something. Is it worth twice the 7100's cost if yall really arent going to employ it? Liking the BIFs , I would love even a low noise ISO 4000. ( equiv to the 7100 at 400)
Ive got the tamzooka , and really do like the lens , but then again I may just not "know any better".
Ive got the tamzooka , and really do like the lens , but then again I may just not "know any better".
Don Kuykendall_RIP
RIP :(
I think most of us used only as high an ISO as needed to get the shutter speed we needed. That is really all you want to do. High ISO even on the D750 still has some costs in quality so you always want it as low as you can to preserve IQ
I don't know exactly what you mean by crispier but the IQ is day and night. The colors just look different and more lifelike.
The D7100 is no slouch either. I used it for my landscapes along with the 18-140 and the tokina 11-16 with great results. I think that it is the combination of the D750 and this lens that is a winner IMO. I can't afford a big prime lens like a 400 or a 500mm f/4 but I think that this lens comes the closest to it on the D750.
I think [MENTION=6277]Don Kuykendall[/MENTION] summed it up very well. Just because you have the high ISO capability, you still would want to only use what you need. For subjects like birds/BIF shutter speed is the most important.
This of course requires auto ISO. I have mine set at maximum 6400 on the D750. I could push it, but unless it's really overcast I don't have to, so I won't.
Stoshowicz
Senior Member
Thanks for the response , I agree heartily about the need for speed with BIFs , I can shoot big slow stuff at 1600th of a sec but for the little peeps , it helps to double that ,, EASILY.
I almost never use auto ISO unless the target is a landscape , I prefer to estimate the right ISO beforehand. The issue being , that if a black bird on a light sky is coming towards or away from me , auto iso will be continually adjusting to get a neutral gray median value , and so as that bird fills more or less of the frame , the ISO will be shifting to achieve that average, regardless of how I want the image to come out. Yes a tiny metering circle 6mm may expose correctly for the bird , but that too will depend on exactly what value that portion of the bird has at its given orientation and wing alignment etc . So though I respect that everyone has their own methodologies , and we sink or swim accordingly,, I prefer to ballpark for the sky and vegetation ,, and the bird is illuminated to whatever value it is that the light hitting it is. When I occasionally do use the auto ISO, its only in soft light and I put the exposure compensation at about +1 or so. Anyway , if you are liking the noise levels at 6400, thats really pretty good in my opinion.
(RE: using what you need ,IMO one needs to use the lowest ISO that will still overexpose by one or two stops without blowing the highlights -If they take a raw image, I'm thinking folks are often too stingey about using higher ISO numbers, to get the most out of the camera, but , thats just me - and I dont shoot much landscape so my approach may not be standard )
I almost never use auto ISO unless the target is a landscape , I prefer to estimate the right ISO beforehand. The issue being , that if a black bird on a light sky is coming towards or away from me , auto iso will be continually adjusting to get a neutral gray median value , and so as that bird fills more or less of the frame , the ISO will be shifting to achieve that average, regardless of how I want the image to come out. Yes a tiny metering circle 6mm may expose correctly for the bird , but that too will depend on exactly what value that portion of the bird has at its given orientation and wing alignment etc . So though I respect that everyone has their own methodologies , and we sink or swim accordingly,, I prefer to ballpark for the sky and vegetation ,, and the bird is illuminated to whatever value it is that the light hitting it is. When I occasionally do use the auto ISO, its only in soft light and I put the exposure compensation at about +1 or so. Anyway , if you are liking the noise levels at 6400, thats really pretty good in my opinion.
(RE: using what you need ,IMO one needs to use the lowest ISO that will still overexpose by one or two stops without blowing the highlights -If they take a raw image, I'm thinking folks are often too stingey about using higher ISO numbers, to get the most out of the camera, but , thats just me - and I dont shoot much landscape so my approach may not be standard )
Don Kuykendall_RIP
RIP :(
The Auto ISO works better for me because so many times you can't adjust the ISO on the fly since the bird may fly between a brightly lit area into the shadows. I do use the exposure compensation instead since it can handle getting the exposure correct on the bird instead of the sky. The difference generally won't change but the overall lighting will.
