The 50mm is a great lens but before you go thinking how great it will end up being... The lens will have limitations on a DX body when it comes down to shooting in small rooms as you will need space between you and the subject. This is where the 35mm will shine. So both of them have their pluses and minuses. If you have a lens like the 18-55 or other kit lens, you should try shooting at both 35mm and 50mm focal lengths and see how you would need to end up positioning yourself to work with lenses at that focal length.
AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1.8G DX
- Thread starter aroy
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Had these focal lengths before , so no stranger to the Dov , I also still have the kit lens , the 50 is ideal for my needs and even on the dx body should be all good. Had a Olympus Epl1 which had a x 2 crop sensor so made a 50mm slr lens a 100mm fov short telephoto lens . I shoot portraits so its ideal . If I need a wider then Sigma10-20mm will be ideal.
On the Olympus because of the crop effect I purchased a 24mm which gave 48mm field of view which I used more than my 50 .
But bearing that in mind 50 mm will be like a 75 mm fov surely.
Besides I thought it outshone the 35mm .
Cant use it if I buy a fx body either which I have not yet ruled out.
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On the Olympus because of the crop effect I purchased a 24mm which gave 48mm field of view which I used more than my 50 .
But bearing that in mind 50 mm will be like a 75 mm fov surely.
Besides I thought it outshone the 35mm .
Cant use it if I buy a fx body either which I have not yet ruled out.
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I got the 18-55 kit with the D3300. It is a great lense when zoom is required. But F3.5 at the low end and F5.6 at the long end are limiting it to great light, as I prefer to shoot at ISO 100 or 200. Beyond 400 you can see slight amount of noise in the shadows, and at ISO 3200 it is visible in the well lighted areas.
Where the primes shine is in the F1.8 to F4 apertures, and in sharpness. The 35mm prime is much sharper than the kit lense. The 50mm prime is even sharper. So it I am shooting at random and do not feel like moving around I use the kit lense. When I want that F1.8 look I use the primes. For close ups primes shine.
Where the primes shine is in the F1.8 to F4 apertures, and in sharpness. The 35mm prime is much sharper than the kit lense. The 50mm prime is even sharper. So it I am shooting at random and do not feel like moving around I use the kit lense. When I want that F1.8 look I use the primes. For close ups primes shine.
Hi guys! I need help from someone who has experience with this lens. Today is got my lens and placed it on my D5200 and it seems to me very slow recording photos and closing shutter, if you know what I mean? I tried all settings ( M, A, S and even auto) tried also changing metering and focusing settings just to make sure it's slow everywhere, but confusion starts because couple days ago I used friend's D3200 with same lens and it snaps very very fast, instant! I'm newbie and probably I messed up somewhere in settings, or maybe focusing distance? Feeling is like, no matter what shutter speed I put, it takes over a second to render and photo to appear on screen. Thank you all for your feedback!
There may be multiple reasons. Here they are in the probability of occurrence.
1. You battery in the D5200 may be low. Charge it fully and then check the speed.
2. The lense may be defective. Use your friend's lense on your camera, and use your lense on the D3200.
. If your lense works on D3200. The lense is fine, else it is defective.
. If your friend's lense works on your camera, your camera is fine, else the camera has some problems.
. If your lense works fine in his camera and his lense works fine in your camera, then your lense may not have been attached properly. Try again with your lense in your camera.
3. Slow recording has to do with slow/bad cards. Try a faster card. I got a class 4 card with the camera and then bought a 45mbps card. None of them make any difference in single shots, but the slower card runs out of steam after 3 shots in burst mode.
4. Slow shutter? Are you are shooting at high F stops so that the shutter speed is below 1/15. To check this set the camera at Aperture Priority. Set the lense at F1.8 and then shoot. The shutter speed should be between 1/1000 and 1/4000. If it is slower than that, then either the light is bad, or your camera metering is defective (can be ruled out if other lenses work fine)
Based on the above you can home down on what is wrong.
Thanks for your help! What I did first was reseting all settings in the camera, after that it started all being ok. Now it snaps fast as it should. Now I wonder, where could I have messed up in settings for this to occur? All settings seem to me as they were earlier! Metering is same, focusing and the rest. This confused me a little.
Without really knowing what mode you were in and settings it would be next to impossible to tell you where an error could have occurred. You could have had your camera set up for long exposures for all that we know. However it is a good thing that the reset has taken care of your issue. Enjoy your lens.
marco.montero
New member
So which lens would you all recommend if I want to take landscape shots? I currently have a 35 mm fixed. 18-55, and a 55-300
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There is no hard and fast rule for the focal length of landscape shots. Some use ultra wides - 12mm or less some use wides - 24/28mm some 50mm and some telephotos. It all depends on what you would like to show. All that you need from your lense is edge to edge linearity and low CA, as landscapes contain a lot of details. Expensive prime lenses from Zeiss and Leica not only give you sharpness but a lot of micro contrast. But as I have said these are extremely expensive lense and Nikon primes will do for most of us.
To figure out what suits you best, use the 18-55 at 18mm, 24mm, 35mm and 50mm to take shots of one scene. Repeat these four shots with at least five other scenes. Then compare the shots taken at different FL with each other and decide what suits your liking the best.
To figure out what suits you best, use the 18-55 at 18mm, 24mm, 35mm and 50mm to take shots of one scene. Repeat these four shots with at least five other scenes. Then compare the shots taken at different FL with each other and decide what suits your liking the best.
Some times the in camera processing can take a lot of time. After all the camera CPU is much slower than the modern Desktop/Laptop CPU. Some of computationally intensive tasks are
. Noise reduction
. Lense corrections
. Scene modes
. Demosaicing and JPEG conversion
Unless you are shooting jpeg for speed, shoot RAW, then none of in camera processing is required, and you will have faster response.
