Shaky hands issue compensated with higher shutter speed?

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brodon

New member
I've had this problem forever, and in my seventies it's a bit worse.

Of course a tri pod and remote shutter release works well but. . . I'd like another option.

Probably should put I this way. Using faster SS as priority, how should I compensate to balance this? ISO or?

Also; if I'm on S (SS) the manual say's that the camera will set the Aperture. OK. If the (A) is blinking does mean I'm out of exposure range?

Thanks in advance.
 
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nickt

Senior Member
Find the shutter speed you need. They say 1/(focal length)x1.5 is a good start. You might need faster, say 2x the focal length. Many of us need double the shutter speed for sharp shots with zooms. I would suggest shutter priority with auto iso. Iso will crank up as needed to support the shutter speed.

If you have a need/want to shoot aperture priority, auto iso can help with that as well. You can tell auto iso what the minimum shutter speed is before it raises up the iso. You can set that minimum shutter speed to change with the focal length. You can further tweak that auto shutter speed option to favor a higher shutter speed if you are still getting shake.

Shutter priority with auto iso will protect you from shakes. Properly setting the auto shutter speed option of the auto iso should also protect you in aperture priority. I hope that makes sense.
 
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Moab Man

Senior Member
Yes, a higher shutter can help. A mono pod will also help. It's not as cumbersome as a tripod, but will really help to steady things.
 
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WayneF

Senior Member
brodon said:
I've had this problem forever, and in my seventies it's a bit worse.

Of course a tri pod and remote shutter release works well but. . . I'd like another option.

Probably should put I this way. Using faster SS as priority, how should I compensate to balance this? ISO or?

Also; if I'm on S (SS) the manual say's that the camera will set the Aperture. OK. If the (A) is blinking does mean I'm out of exposure range?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Another choice is that Indoors (in indoor lighting levels), using a speedlight flash offers extreme motion stopping capabilities, much faster than the shutter speed.

The A blinking in S mode means the lens maximum aperture is not wide enough for the ISO and shutter speed you are setting. Lens hit the wide open limit, and could not open more. I assume indoor lighting, which is not nearly as bright as sunshine. You need wider aperture, or slower shutter speed, or higher ISO. Specifically, you could increase ISO to give it more range in dim scenes.

But... The big problem in general with S mode indoors (dimmer light) is that then the lens is always wide open at maximum aperture. Every shot in more dim light is wide open (and your HI error is asking for wider). S mode is really better like say for sports in bright sun.

I am not a big fan of Auto ISO, but it could be ideal for your goal.

Set camera A mode, and set the aperture you want to use... say f/5.6 in dim light, your choice, but stopping down at least one stop is a good thing for quality when possible.

You can set Auto ISO On, with a Maximum ISO of say 2500 (chose your own maximum ISO).

In the Auto ISO menu, set Minimum Shutter speed there to the value you want to shoot at, say 1/100 or 1/160 second, whatever you think you need.

The meaning is, as dim light drops the shutter speed lower, it will stop dropping at this Minimum, and ISO will start increasing then. It is the Auto ISO threshold. So you will be using that specific shutter speed anytime Auto ISO is actually active, every shot between Minimum and Maximum ISO. It is somewhat like S mode in that way.

Not all things are ever possible, but you do have this choice.

If the Maximum ISO limit is reached and still not enough for the dim light, then shutter speed will continue dropping slower, but you can see this, and perhaps take other steps. Like fully opening the lens aperture, or setting higher Maximum ISO. Or like say flash (you may NOT want Auto ISO with flash).

Watch your results, about ISO and shutter speed and aperture. Be aware of what is happening.
 
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nickt

Senior Member
We are throwing lots of iso at you here. The good news is once you have it figured out and set the way you like, you can quickly change it with the iso button + rear command wheel. The iso button + FRONT command wheel will toggle auto iso on and off.
 
Danno

Danno

Senior Member
I have similar problems, but mine is intermittent. I tend to go with higher shutter speeds in the 1.5 to 2 times range and a monopod, or perch to rest on or against. I will also use autoISO with a high limit I am comfortable with on the ISO. I usually keep autoISO on unless I am looking for something specific, even on a sunny day. I will vary the max ISO based on the conditions. Normally I hold it to 2000 or 2500, but it depends on the circumstances.
 
cwgrizz

cwgrizz

Senior Member
Challenge Team
NIKONIAN_DREAMWEAVER said:
Nobody has mentioned "VR". I always shoot with VR on. Even when mounted on a tripod. Always get good results.
Click to expand...
That depends, but the general rule is turn it off when on the tripod.

Quote from NIKON:
With the following lenses/cameras VR should be "Off" when the camera is mounted on a tripod and the pan/tilt head is locked down and using a cable release:

  • 105mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Micro Nikkor
  • 18-200mm f3.5-5.6 ED-IF AF-S VR DX Zoom-Nikkor
  • 24-120mm f3.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor
  • 70-200mm f2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor
  • 80-400mm f4.5-5.6D ED VR AF Zoom-Nikkor
  • 70-300mm f4.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor
  • Coolpix 8800
With the following lenses/cameras VR should be "On" when the camera is mounted on a tripod and the pan/tilt head is loose (fluid) while using the cameras shutter release button:

  • 105mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Micro Nikkor
  • 18-200mm f3.5-5.6 ED-IF AF-S VR DX Zoom-Nikkor
  • 24-120mm f3.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor
  • 70-200mm f2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor
  • 80-400mm f4.5-5.6D ED VR AF Zoom-Nikkor
  • 70-300mm f4.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor
  • Coolpix 8800

There are various articles around that explain why the VR should be turned off when all is locked down firmly. When VR is on (locked down on the tripod) the lens creates a vibration internally (or an internal loop), trying to correct for its own vibration caused by the VR.
 
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NIKONIAN_DREAMWEAVER

Senior Member
I've been using VR "on" for every type of shooting, with many of the lenses that are on that list (above), with or without a tripod, locked down or not, for many years on my D7100 and I've never had any problems. Always tack-sharp pictures. I never turn it off...:)
 
cwgrizz

cwgrizz

Senior Member
Challenge Team
@NIKONIAN_DREAMWEAVER

That sounds good that you are having those results. There are many different camps on the VR on-off issue. Some argue that they never turn it on, some are in agreement with Nikon, and some are in your camp. I have seen some almost come to blows over the issue. Ha! And then you can get into the VR vs VRII debate.

I'm not saying you are wrong, just wanted to point out what Nikon had to say about it. Really what it boils down to is to do what you get the best results with and the only way to know that is to try the different modes.
 
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aroy

Senior Member
VR helps at lower speeds. If you can use the Flash either internal or (if you have one) external. Flash will strobe the image at more than 1/5000 second, so there will be no visible shake. I use it a lot as even in my case my hands shake a lot at times.

Alternatively, adopt a better stance. Steady your hands either by keeping them as close to the body as possible, or use an external support when available - chair, tree, fence just lean or rest your hands against a support and your shake will be reduced dramatically.
 
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NIKONIAN_DREAMWEAVER

Senior Member
cwgrizz said:
@NIKONIAN_DREAMWEAVER

That sounds good that you are having those results. There are many different camps on the VR on-off issue. Some argue that they never turn it on, some are in agreement with Nikon, and some are in your camp. I have seen some almost come to blows over the issue. Ha! And then you can get into the VR vs VRII debate.

I'm not saying you are wrong, just wanted to point out what Nikon had to say about it. Really what it boils down to is to do what you get the best results with and the only way to know that is to try the different modes.
Click to expand...


I don't think I've tried the 'VRII'. Wonder what the difference is??

I know that Nikon says to turn it off for tripod use, but my toothbrush manufacturer says I should buy
a new tooth brush every 2 months and I find that that is not necessary either! ;)

Has anyone ever had bad results with VR turned on, while tripod mounted and locked down??
 
cwgrizz

cwgrizz

Senior Member
Challenge Team
NIKONIAN_DREAMWEAVER said:
I don't think I've tried the 'VRII'. Wonder what the difference is??

I know that Nikon says to turn it off for tripod use, but my toothbrush manufacturer says I should buy
a new tooth brush every 2 months and I find that that is not necessary either! ;)

Has anyone ever had bad results with VR turned on, while tripod mounted and locked down??
Click to expand...

VRII is, according to Nikon, a better VR system that is not as susceptible to the tripod induced VR loop. It is supposed to sense the minimal tripod leg shake syndrome and not try to correct for it, causing the tell-tell internal lens vibration.

I don't replace my toothbrush as often as is recommended either, but that is a money issue (manufacturer wants more money). Using VR on the tripod or not using it doesn't effect my pocket book. Ha!!

And no I haven't had bad results, but I haven't done it too many times. My crummy tripod is not worthy of a good test one way or another. Ha!
 
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