very green hobbiest setup tips?

[andrewthesith]

to give a little background on myself. i shoot maybe a few times every other week. mostly random stuff around my house - messing with the settings to try and learn from first hand experience.

i would, however, like to dabble more into portraits and automotive photography (both still and motion).

the flexability of a 2-for-1 setup would be nice but not entirely necessary. i am looking for direction into what components will help me being a greenhorn.

right now, i shoot with a D3100 with kit lens.
i am looking into purchasing:
[h=1]- Nikon 50mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras
- Nikon HB-34 Lens Hood for 55-200mm DX Nikkor Lens
- backpack
- tripod
- more digital storage[/h]i do NOT have lots of money to spare at the moment, so please keep that in mind when suggesting other quality items to purchase.

any suggestion on a nice backpack and tripod are extremely welcome!

 

[nickt]

The 50mm 1.8 d wont autofocus on your camera. This one will: Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm f/1.8G Lens 2199 B&H Photo Video Af-S is what you want to look for in a lens to autofocus on your camera. If it is just 'AF', you need a body with a focus motor.

Why do you want the 50mm over the 35mm? Its ok to want it, I just want to make sure you get what is best for you. Both are good 'lower light' prime lenses. The 50 is a little long for indoor home type shots. Unless you have a big room, its hard to back up enough. It is fine if you have more room and gives some additional reach.
The 18-105 is a great and inexpensive everyday lens.

I have 2 of these:
Amazon.com: AmazonBasics Backpack for SLR Cameras and Accessories-Black: Camera & Photo

I don't really backpack with them, so I don't know how they hold up, but they are decent inexpensive bags that hold quite a bit.

 

[andrewthesith]

Don't so much want it over the other. Just trying to add to my arsenal.

From what I've read (which hasn't been too much so far), investing in a wide angle lens is a solid step. And anything else will only help with experience and finding what works best with me.

If any random selection will hurt my cause I appreciate the notice!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

 

[nickt]

I think a lot of us DX (crop sensor) shooters that have a 50mm lens have it because we had it left over from film days. 50mm was the 'normal' lens for full frame 35mm film. 35mm is the normal lens for dx. I've heard guys recommend the 80mm as a companion to the 35mm. I like the 35. 50 is too much for family type pictures in a house or restaurant, etc. If you have the 18-55, keep it on 35mm for a few days and then 50mm for a few days to see which you will get more use out of.

 

[andrewthesith]

Thanks for the idea! Ill give that a go.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

 

[Bob Blaylock]

The 50mm 1.8 d wont autofocus on your camera. This one will: Nikon AF-S Nikkor 50mm f/1.8G Lens 2199 B&H Photo Video Af-S is what you want to look for in a lens to autofocus on your camera. If it is just 'AF', you need a body with a focus motor.

It seems to me that the key point doesn't stand out prominently enough here. Just the way the text fell. Let me break it out so that it hopefully stands out better…

On those Nikon DSLRs that do not have a built-in focus motor in the body (which is anything in the D3?00 or D5?00 series, the D40, or D60), autofocus is only available when using a lens that has a focus motor in the lens.

Nikon designates such lenses as “AF-S” or “AF-I”.

Any autofocus-capable lens which is not “AF-S” or “AF-i” will only autofocus on the higher-model bodies that have a focus motor in the body. You can use them on a D3100, but you'll have to focus manually.

Why do you want the 50mm over the 35mm? Its ok to want it, I just want to make sure you get what is best for you. Both are good 'lower light' prime lenses. The 50 is a little long for indoor home type shots. Unless you have a big room, its hard to back up enough. It is fine if you have more room and gives some additional reach.
The 18-105 is a great and inexpensive everyday lens.

Again, a point made here, that may not be clear enough.

I assume that the OP knows that 50mm is the “standard” focal length for a lens for a 35mm camera, and is supposing that it is also so with his D3100.

The D3100, like most of the more basic DSLRs, has a smaller image sensor than a full 35mm frame, and so the lens focal lengths should be scaled down accordingly, by a factor of 1.55. A lens that would be most exactly equivalent on this camera to a 50mm on full-frame 35mm camera would have a focal length of 32.25mm; 35mm is close enough. A 50mm lens on this camera would be equivalent to a 77.5mm lens on a 35mm camera.

Nikon uses the designation “DX” to refer to this smaller frame size, and “FX” to refer to those that use a frame size similar to that of a full-frame 35mm camera.

If you want a “standard” lens for a DX-format camera, that is equivalent to a 50mm lens on an FX camera or a 35mm film camera, then what you want is a 35mm lens, not a 50mm lens.

 

[JudeIscariot]

It seems to me that the key point doesn't stand out prominently enough here. Just the way the text fell. Let me break it out so that it hopefully stands out better…

On those Nikon DSLRs that do not have a built-in focus motor in the body (which is anything in the D3?00 or D5?00 series, the D40, or D60), autofocus is only available when using a lens that has a focus motor in the lens.

Nikon designates such lenses as “AF-S” or “AF-I”.

Any autofocus-capable lens which is not “AF-S” or “AF-i” will only autofocus on the higher-model bodies that have a focus motor in the body. You can use them on a D3100, but you'll have to focus manually.





Again, a point made here, that may not be clear enough.

I assume that the OP knows that 50mm is the “standard” focal length for a lens for a 35mm camera, and is supposing that it is also so with his D3100.

The D3100, like most of the more basic DSLRs, has a smaller image sensor than a full 35mm frame, and so the lens focal lengths should be scaled down accordingly, by a factor of 1.55. A lens that would be most exactly equivalent on this camera to a 50mm on full-frame 35mm camera would have a focal length of 32.25mm; 35mm is close enough. A 50mm lens on this camera would be equivalent to a 77.5mm lens on a 35mm camera.

Nikon uses the designation “DX” to refer to this smaller frame size, and “FX” to refer to those that use a frame size similar to that of a full-frame 35mm camera.

If you want a “standard” lens for a DX-format camera, that is equivalent to a 50mm lens on an FX camera or a 35mm film camera, then what you want is a 35mm lens, not a 50mm lens.

What if he's not looking for length, but for distortion/perspective? A 35mm, while having the same overall field of view, still makes the subject look the same as with a 35mm on a 35mm film frame or in an FX camera. If they want the LOOK of 50mm, they'll need to get the 50mm.

I love my 35mm, and I love the field of view I get with it, but it's definitely not the same as my 50mm, which gives the same perspective of the subject as with the 50mm I have on any of my film cameras.

 

[Bill16]

I'm a D3100 user too, but I am going a different direction. So a lot of my choices might not be the best way to go for you. But I can suggest a good shoulder strap like black rapid to help keep your camera handy and safe from dropping it. Also I would recommend either a battery grip or just an extra battery, so you have it handy when you need it.

A good post processing app like Photoshop or lightroom can make a world of difference too.
I hope you'll have a blast with your new additions!

 

[Horoscope Fish]

I'm going to suggest you skip the kit lens, buy a body and then get the 35mm f/1.8G which I'm suggesting over the 50mm. I'm suggesting the "G" over the "D" so you don't lose auto-focus and 35mm over 50mm because I find the former the more flexible of the two by a slim margin. You're going to need something better than the 18-55mm that comes standard to get the most out of this body, IMO and, while I like the 18-55mm, I think you'll be better off with the 35mm prime which is a real gem of a lens.

I'm going to second the suggestion made by nickt for this Amazon backpack; I have one and it's great for day to day packing around of your gear. It's not built for long expeditions in the Adirondacks so don't do that with this bag. It's built for fairly routine hauling around of your crap in the back of your Honda Civic so if you go into it expecting that's what you're getting for your $30 you'll be happy.

For about $50 I'm going to suggest this Dolica tripod/ball head combo. It will serve you well and when you're ready to drop big bucks on a serious tripod you won't be crying in your beer over the $50 you spent a few years ago.

I don't know what you mean, specifically, by "digital storage" but if you mean SD cards I'm going to tell you right now to just suck up the extra few bucks for legit cards from legit vendors selling legit brand names like SanDisk, Lexar or Transcend. Don't be one of those dumb-asses that logs on asking if buying 15, 128GB, Class 10 "SanDisk" SD cards from some dude in Russia for $100 via eBay is a "good deal" or not. Yeah pal... Great deal. BY ALL MEANS we're going to suggest you risk your once-in-a-lifetime family vacation pics to such a transaction. Not like they're a critical component or anything, right? Seriously, though, just spend the money and forget about it.


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[andrewthesith]

What if he's not looking for length, but for distortion/perspective? A 35mm, while having the same overall field of view, still makes the subject look the same as with a 35mm on a 35mm film frame or in an FX camera. If they want the LOOK of 50mm, they'll need to get the 50mm.

I love my 35mm, and I love the field of view I get with it, but it's definitely not the same as my 50mm, which gives the same perspective of the subject as with the 50mm I have on any of my film cameras.

was under the impression that a 50mm WOULD give me slight "distortion". i'll look into the effects.

I'm a D3100 user too, but I am going a different direction. So a lot of my choices might not be the best way to go for you. But I can suggest a good shoulder strap like black rapid to help keep your camera handy and safe from dropping it. Also I would recommend either a battery grip or just an extra battery, so you have it handy when you need it.

A good post processing app like Photoshop or lightroom can make a world of difference too.
I hope you'll have a blast with your new additions!

strap, PS and LR are already owned.

I'm going to suggest you skip the kit lens, buy a body and then get the 35mm f/1.8G which I'm suggesting over the 50mm. I'm suggesting the "G" over the "D" so you don't lose auto-focus and 35mm over 50mm because I find the former the more flexible of the two by a slim margin. You're going to need something better than the 18-55mm that comes standard to get the most out of this body, IMO and, while I like the 18-55mm, I think you'll be better off with the 35mm prime which is a real gem of a lens.

I'm going to second the suggestion made by nickt for this Amazon backpack; I have one and it's great for day to day packing around of your gear. It's not built for long expeditions in the Adirondacks so don't do that with this bag. It's built for fairly routine hauling around of your crap in the back of your Honda Civic so if you go into it expecting that's what you're getting for your $30 you'll be happy.

For about $50 I'm going to suggest this Dolica tripod/ball head combo. It will serve you well and when you're ready to drop big bucks on a serious tripod you won't be crying in your beer over the $50 you spent a few years ago.

I don't know what you mean, specifically, by "digital storage" but if you mean SD cards I'm going to tell you right now to just suck up the extra few bucks for legit cards from legit vendors selling legit brand names like SanDisk, Lexar or Transcend. Don't be one of those dumb-asses that logs on asking if buying 15, 128GB, Class 10 "SanDisk" SD cards from some dude in Russia for $100 via eBay is a "good deal" or not. Yeah pal... Great deal. BY ALL MEANS we're going to suggest you risk your once-in-a-lifetime family vacation pics to such a transaction. Not like they're a critical component or anything, right? Seriously, though, just spend the money and forget about it.

why would i skip the lens kit to buy a body when i already own a D3100 with kit lens?

 

[ShallowShannon]

I don't own a 50 or 35 (yet) but my 18-55 has been a great lens for what it is and I think it's a little underestimated. That being said I am saving up for a Tokina 11-16. If when you say (kit lens) you're talking about the 18-55 I would say despite it being a (kit lens) it's still a good lens for someone without deep pockets and with the will to make due with what they have.

 

[andrewthesith]

i think you are all misunderstanding/not reading what i said..

i am fine with the kit lens, HOWEVER, i WOULD like to add to more to my setup. not trying to buy every single different lens on the market.. but rather, a few cool pieces and parts to experiment with that are not over-the-top and unnecessary.

 

[ShallowShannon]

I think you missed my point, rather than going and buying a lens because it's cool you should get some practice with what you have. Eventually you'll know what you need to help you get the shots you want.
Then you will also be able to be more specific with your questions. A list of cool things to buy wont make you a better photographer.
To go with the lens and bag suggestions (that have been made), I just bought a bogan manfroto tripod that's been great.

 

[Horoscope Fish]

why would i skip the lens kit to buy a body when i already own a D3100 with kit lens?

What you have, what you're buying... It all runs together. I blame the liquor.

Since you already have the 18-55 I'm going suggest you invest in the 35mm f/1.8G lens. While there's nothing wrong with the current 18-55mm, the one with VR, there's really nothing extraordinary about it either. The 35mm 1.8 is faster, sharper and gives better contrast.

My personal opinion is that a good normal lens and one moderate zoom is capable of covering probably +95% of what most people shoot. If you do wildlife, or some other specialized type of shooting that regularly demands it, I can see the need for a big zoom (+200mm) but otherwise one wide angle (~18mm or so), a fast prime (35mm, 50mm 1.8) and a medium zoom (55-200mm, 70-300mm) will get the job done with a minimum of fuss and expense. At some point you have to stop asking, "What lens do I need to get the shot I want?" and start asking yourself "How do I get the shot I want using the lens I have?"

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