Using P, M, A and S Modes

WayneF

Senior Member
for example, i'd like to hear things like

A - Good for portrait
S - Action photography etc..

I have always being using Auto mode. But trying to move to specific modes. But bit confused which one is "usually" best for what ?

If confused, then Auto mode may be best. :)

Sounds like you already have a good clue, but we always need to watch Both aperture and shutter speed, to make sure both are as the situation needs. There are times we find one more important, fore example fast action normally demands speed be given priority. But usually we control aperture as the primary concern, but we still always have to watch speed too.


I would highly recommend this book as being a necessity, for anyone asking your question. Basics, and at this pont, it will be the best money you can spend on photography.
 
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I'm working with S and A modes at this point. I tried P mode early on after getting the camera but I just felt the combinations weren't working out for the best results.

In the Program mode you can turn the thumb wheel and it will change the combination to anything you want. IT is a quick way to change from fast action to large DOF without every having to take the camera away from your eye. Also if you are using a zoom and need to keep DOF as high as you can but still need to change shutter speed to compensate for the longer zoom.

Best of all three worlds A S and P
 

ladytonya

Senior Member
No, don't stop! I love threads like this. While some of the language is still Greek to me as a total newb, it has still explained all the various modes way better than the user manual. I looked at the books that were suggested and they just seem way over my head at this point. LOL! I did buy one book that was particular to my camera model that I have seen recommended around here and reading this thread combined with going back and reading the chapters on each mode have made me want to go try some shooting in A and S. I have used mostly just Auto and played around in the Guide. I have actually found the Guide to be pretty helpful and it does a fair job of explaining A vs. S vs. P vs. M. For me, only having had the camera for right at a month now, I don't feel at all ready to even attempt to shoot in manual mode! Anyway, don't save your keystrokes, they may not be helping the OP but they could be helpings others besides myself who are new to the DSLR world.
 

Bill16

Senior Member
I have a lens or two that I have to use manual mode, and my favorite lens the 105mm is one of them. So mode M has been the mode I've been in the most. :)
 

WayneF

Senior Member
I looked at the books that were suggested and they just seem way over my head at this point. LOL!

Amazon.com: Understanding Exposure, 3rd Edition: How to Shoot Great Photographs with Any Camera (9780817439392): Bryan Peterson: Books

This book is certainly not over anyone's head. :) Only $19 at Amazon, read the user comments there. It really will be the best money a beginner can spend on photography. Or there is a high probability it is in your public library, or look it over in the book store. This info is absolutely essential knowledge for beginning photography, what aperture and shutter speed is all about... about what you are trying to do.
 

Horoscope Fish

Senior Member
If you want to break away from using Auto and get comfortable shooing in Manual, the best way to learn is to just do it. No one needs to see these shots, just get out there and start experimenting. It's probably easier than you think to shoot in Manual but knowing a few things first will help you succeed right off the bat.

Thing 1. Learn about How to Read and Use Historgrams. This is freaking HUGE. Seriously. Take the five minutes required to really understand this amazing tool your camera provides you. The importance of understanding your histograms can not be over-rated.

Thing 2. Understand exposure is about one thing and one thing only... Intensity of light. This intensity is controlled in two ways: First, the camera's shutter speed controls *time*. More time = more intensity. Less time = less intensity. The second way is the camera's aperture which controls *volume*. Bigger aperture = more volume. Smaller aperture = less volume. One full f-stop smaller halves the volume, one full f-stop wider doubles the volume assuming the shutter speed is the same.
...
Thing 2a. Understand why shooting at f8 @ 1/125 or f/11 @ 1/60 or f5.6 @ 1/250 will *all* yield the same exposure. This is called "Reciprocity of Exposure" and it's funny how many "pro's" don't fully grasp this concept. You will not be one of them. You will know this backwards and forwards because understanding this concept will liberate you.
....
Thing 2b. The Exposure Meter at the bottom of your viewfinder: (-) ..... 0 ...... (+)
The zero at the center indicates what your meter thinks will yield perfect exposure. You will temper this assumption with your expanded understanding of histograms and how your meter is "seeing" the scene and what it is "thinking". This meter is just another tool for your brain and you will not blindly obey it, you will understand what it is telling you and adjust a setting to get what you want out the shot.

Thing 3. The Exposure Compensation Button. You understand exposure and you understand reciprocity of exposure. The value of this button should be clear. It simply makes applying the principles faster and easier.

Thing 4. The above is not as much to learn/think about as it probably sounds like it is by looking at it. Be bold. Learn, experiment, control, repeat!


.....
 

WayneF

Senior Member
Thing 2. Understand exposure is about one thing and one thing only... Intensity of light. This intensity is controlled in two ways: First, the camera's shutter speed controls *time*. More time = more intensity. Less time = less intensity. The second way is the camera's aperture which controls *volume*. Bigger aperture = more volume. Smaller aperture = less volume. One full f-stop smaller halves the volume, one full f-stop wider doubles the volume assuming the shutter speed is the same...
.....


Except there is much more to Exposure that we have to know. Equivalent exposures may give the same brightness, but which equivalent is better for our purpose? (of stopping motion, or preventing camera shake, or of depth of field, or blurring the background, or not blurring the background, etc.)

Read the book. It too is not all there is, not the total answer, but it is one heck of a good start for beginners.
 
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Horoscope Fish

Senior Member
Except there is much more to Exposure that we have to know. Equivalent exposures may give the same brightness, but which equivalent is better for our purpose? (of stopping motion, or preventing camera shake, or of depth of field, or blurring the background, or not blurring the background, etc.)
My post wasn't meant to be an all-inclusive education on exposure; it was some suggestions on learning how to shoot proper exposure in Manual mode.

For those unfamiliar with shooting in Manual, getting proper exposure, consistently I think, is an important first step.



......
 

WayneF

Senior Member
My post wasn't meant to be an all-inclusive education on exposure; it was some suggestions on learning how to shoot proper exposure in Manual mode.
......



OK, it was just the "Thing 2. Understand exposure is about one thing and one thing only..." part that got my attention. Because there certainly are other considerations about Exposure choices involved in photography basics.


 
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Horoscope Fish

Senior Member
OK, it was just the "Thing 2. Understand exposure is about one thing and one thing only..." part that got my attention. Because there certainly are other considerations about Exposure choices involved in photography basics.
Oh, okay... Yes, I totally agree with you on that. Absolutely.
 

WayneF

Senior Member
And the P, M, S, and A modes are really only a convenience. A mode is the mode that gives the aperture choices the priority. Or S mode gives the shutter speeds choices the priority. (for when you want the properties these specific choices offer).

P mode lets the automation pick both - sometimes a helpful choice, but sometimes a dumb choice, since computers have no clue what the scene actually is, or how it ought to look. The human has no choice then, unless they step in with override.

Any automation mode only sees a "blob of light", which it can measure, and then it always tries to make it come out middle tone, not too dark, not too bright. That may or may not be the right answer (black cat in coal mine, white polar bear on the snow). The automation does NOT know the difference, so sometimes override is necessary.

M mode lets you set both aperture and shutter speed (lets you override automation, for full control).

If you are only going to use M mode by always "zeroing the meter", you might as well use A or S mode. They do that too, faster.

But it is the photographer that has to learn when and why they want what.
 
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Bill16

Senior Member
Darn you edited out a part of your post I wanted to ask about. Let me check my email. Yes where is this meter that was mentioned once? I've been so absorbed in shoot and check method, I neglected to notice this meter you once mentioned. Is it the stuff at the bottom of the eye-piece lit up? Man I have a lot to learn! Lol :)
 
And the P, M, S, and A modes are really only a convenience. A mode is the mode that gives the aperture choices the priority. Or S mode gives the shutter speeds choices the priority. (for when you want the properties these specific choices offer).

P mode lets the automation pick both - sometimes a helpful choice, but sometimes a dumb choice, since computers have no clue what the scene actually is, or how it ought to look. The automotion only sees a "blob of light", which it can measure, and then it always tries to make it come out middle tone, not too dark, not too bright. That may or may not be the right answer (black cat in coal mine, white polar bear on the snow). The automation does NOT know the difference, so sometimes override is necessary.

I shoot all modes at different times but one thing many people do not know is that in the Program mode you can change the shutter speed/aperture selection by rotating the command dial (Thumb wheel) It will give you what it thinks is the correct exposure but allow you to quickly change from action to DOF without having to remove your eye from the viewfinder.

It is just an another option. To me it gives me the best of A and S while allowing me to quickly over ride for lens length of the zoom at different lengths.
 

WayneF

Senior Member
Yeah, I do tend to edit for awhile, to remove dumb stuff and add better stuff. :)

Yes, I mean the camera's builtin light meter. It shows in the viewfinder in Manual mode (bottom, where the A or S or P or M appears). It only shows the auto modes only when the camera is not able to find a good exposure (in a dim room with a high shutter speed, that just cannot possibly work, then it shows, suggesting underexposure).
 

ladytonya

Senior Member
I just tried shooting some in P, A, and S and ended up deleting them because they were nothing other than a blurry mess. I need to stick with auto because working 40+ hours and going to school part time doesn't leave a lot of time for extra reading. *sigh*


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WayneF

Senior Member
I just tried shooting some in P, A, and S and ended up deleting them because they were nothing other than a blurry mess. I need to stick with auto because working 40+ hours and going to school part time doesn't leave a lot of time for extra reading. *sigh*

Auto and P are not different in terms of shutter speed and aperture. Both are Automatic. Auto does additionally automatically pop up the flash when it thinks it is necessary. In A, S, P, or M modes, you pop up the flash yourself if you think it is needed.

Then the Scene Modes (like Portrait or Closeup or Sports), they do additional automated things, some will Not pop up the flash, or will try to use a faster shutter, etc. It is really so much better for US to simply learn what we need do do ourselves. That is what photography basics are about.


You have to define "blur" better. What is blurred? Everything? Only distance extremes? Only motion? Posting an example can only help others know what you are talking about.

These modes wont cause blur themselves, except they will allow unacceptable shutter speed and aperture choices that might.
For example, due to motion with too slow a shutter speed.
Too wide an aperture does limit depth of field, for example blurred backgrounds behind a near subject.
Sorry, but you do have to pay attention to the numbers, aperture and shutter speed. And ISO, which affects those numbers.

If "everything" is blurred, it is probably not focused. AF-C mode is NOT likely what you want. AF-C mode is for holding shutter half pressed while following motion, like flying birds (the half press lets it focus). AF-C mode will allow the shutter to trip without being in focus (not likely what you want). So if you simply just jab the shutter, AF-C mode can trip the shutter button BEFORE focus is achieved. So either learn to hold half press a second (to allow it to focus), or switch to AF-S mode. Read the manual (there are options), but defaults are that AF-S mode demands focus, it will wait for focus to complete before the shutter will work. And AF-C will not wait for focus (but the second or third in a burst might find it).

That does mean, in a few situations (dark, or no detail to focus on), and AF-S cannot find focus, then the shutter will NOT work (which gets your attention, but it is excellent help). There is a little green dot at bottom left of the viewfinder that is green when focus is achieved.

These principles are things that beginning photography basics is about. It IS what it is all about. You bought a better camera, and you are here discussing it, so you are interested, and I suggest you read the book, to know. :) Then you can ask more specific questions. :) Your local library is a good bet for it, but there is always a waiting list here.

Except for AF-C (and except for flash), the book will be a tremendous help. It is an easy fun read, and it WILL change your life, photographically. :)
 
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ladytonya

Senior Member
Thanks, Wayne! I wish I could read it, sounds like it would be a lot more interesting than the few hundred pages if constitutional law that I should be reading right now instead of futzing around on a Nikon forum! LOL!
By blur I mean everything is blurry. I was at a brewery taking pictures of their chalkboard, some displays, and the taps, everything was completely stationary and completely blurred. :( I did buy a book that was recommended on here somewhere, the Nikon D3100 Digital Field Guide. Also bought an iPhone app entitled Nikon D3100 Toolkit for Dummies. I thought I needed to learn more about actually using all the settings in my camera before I started reading about exposure and composition. Maybe I'm wrong. :?


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WayneF

Senior Member
Thanks, Wayne! I wish I could read it, sounds like it would be a lot more interesting than the few hundred pages if constitutional law that I should be reading right now instead of futzing around on a Nikon forum! LOL!
By blur I mean everything is blurry. I was at a brewery taking pictures of their chalkboard, some displays, and the taps, everything was completely stationary and completely blurred. :( I did buy a book that was recommended on here somewhere, the Nikon D3100 Digital Field Guide. Also bought an iPhone app entitled Nikon D3100 Toolkit for Dummies. I thought I needed to learn more about actually using all the settings in my camera before I started reading about exposure and composition. Maybe I'm wrong. :?

I can appreciate that you certainly must be busy there. :) But you surely have a couple of hours now and then. Your Asheville area is so fantastic, it needs lots of camera attention too. I am not familiar with that D3100 guide, no doubt it is good, but suspect it is mostly about the camera menus, instead of about photography principles. It probably tells you how, but not why or when (your question). I mean, much of the menus are about little fine points, not about basic photography. Aperture, shutter speed, ISO and White Balance, those are basic photography. Both subjects are needed of course, there are lots of details, and more than one book won't hurt. :) But you asked the question starting this thread, so I was trying to address that. I mean, you ask, so why not find out?

Maybe it is a little wrong, just in an incomplete sense, in that the menus won't help much until you know what you need to do to get picture you want. When you know why, then you know how. So this is about any camera, and it's all pretty easy, you just need to see it once to get the idea.

Please realize I am really trying to speak generally, to all beginners that have the same questions. There is some stuff that we just gotta know, to have a clue, to get much out of it. But its easy, we only need to be interested enough to find it. :)

There are lots of books on beginning photography principles, and I'm a little techie, and there always seems like there is more that could be said, so I might not consider this one was the very best one. I mean, it is a short and fast breezy read, admittedly good but not deep on anything, and not technical at all, how impressive is that? But speaking of impressive, its sales at Amazon clearly says I'm wrong. Read its user comments there, newbies eat it up as wonderful (helpful).

It is only 160 pages, letter size, but many many full page photos, and many very large photos, so I doubt it has even half that much text. Only 5 or 6 chapters,
1. Exposure
2. Aperture
3. Shutter speed
4. Light
and a couple smaller ones, about a few details.

It answers the question you asked, why and when. It is a review of the same principles you would get in an elective beginning digital photography course, about basics. But will be a lot faster to simply just read it once, a fast easy read, but then you'll know. And then of course, photography does need practice (thinking practice). Auto mode is not always the best thing. :)

Anyway, I hope that helps.
 
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