Upgrade Glass or Body

Horoscope Fish

Senior Member
Funny you mention learning about light, as I was trying to find a good place online to learn about it yesterday afternoon.

Do you have any suggestions or recommendations?
A good, free tutorial can be found on F-Stoppers: How to "Read" Light in Photography. Part II is linked at the bottom. Another good source is just about any decent tutorial that deals with using on/off camera flash.

Also, a good source of free tutorials on all things photography related is Udemy. A lot of their courses you have to pay a few bucks for, but there's also a lot of free content.
 
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Whiskeyman

Senior Member
Funny you mention learning about light, as I was trying to find a good place online to learn about it yesterday afternoon.

Do you have any suggestions or recommendations?

It isn't released, yet, but I'm pre-ordering this book Picture Perfect Lighting: An Innovative Lighting System for Photographing People: Roberto Valenzuela: 9781937538750: Amazon.com: Books based upon the author's previous work.

Kelby Training and Creative Live are both online resources that have resources addressing this subject. There are many more online resources such as Cambridge in Colour - Photography Tutorials & Learning Community and there are videos on youtube, as well. (Look for videos with Cliff Mautner, a favorite of mine.)

I believe the best way to learn about portrait lighting is to learn from and work with a master of the craft. After that, work on your own with a mannequin and light sources with modeling lights. With modeling lights, you constantly see how the strobe/flash will fall on the subject, and can adjust the light source as you see the need to.

If you want to work with other than portraiture, get up early and study the light and how it effects the scene just before and the hour after sunrise. Take a nap and study the same for the hour before sunset till the light gets so low you can't shoot any more. (Those times are called "The Golden Hour" for more than just the tint of the light.) When you're shooting outdoors, turn around look behind your camera frequently so that you don't miss a light opportunity.

Read about light in painting, as well. There are masters' techniques from the old days that work really well with photographic portraiture, as well.

WM
 
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Blacktop

Senior Member
It isn't released, yet, but I'm pre-ordering this book Picture Perfect Lighting: An Innovative Lighting System for Photographing People: Roberto Valenzuela: 9781937538750: Amazon.com: Books based upon the author's previous work.

Kelby Training and Creative Live are both online resources that have resources addressing this subject. There are many more online resources such as Cambridge in Colour - Photography Tutorials & Learning Community and there are videos on youtube, as well. (Look for videos with Cliff Mautner, a favorite of mine.)

I believe the best way to learn about portrait lighting is to learn from and work with a master of the craft. After that, work on your own with a mannequin and light sources with modeling lights. With modeling lights, you constantly see how the strobe/flash will fall on the subject, and can adjust the light source as you see the need to.

If you want to work with other than portraiture, get up early and study the light and how it effects the scene just before and the hour after sunrise. Take a nap and study the same for the hour before sunset till the light gets so low you can't shoot any more. (Those times are called "The Golden Hour" for more than just the tint of the light.) When you're shooting outdoors, turns around look behind your camera frequently so that you don't miss a light opportunity.

Read about light in painting, as well. There are masters' techniques from the old days that work really well with photographic portraiture, as well.

WM

You are so right Whiskeyman.I don't know much about shooting people and the like ( @Lawrence is the master at that :)) but I did learn a few things about shooting landscapes. When I learned to look for the light, my shots became much better for it.
 
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Fortkentdad

Senior Member
I'm going to join the chorus singing the virtues of good glass. Glass lasts. Bodies come and go. Sooner or later you will need to get a new body - if the D7000 is working well and doing the job you need done, then as papa always said "if it ain't broke don't fix it". But can you ever have enough good glass?
I've gone down the glass accumulation path a bit and it has been fun. I've bought some used and 'vintage' aka old glass, and I had some from my days shooting film. Love that Nikon glass promise.

So much depends on what you want to do. If shooting the kids is your priority (and for this grandpa I do a few thousand photos of children per year) then a good mid range zoom is great. I get a lot of mileage out of my Tammy 24-70 F/2.8 and recommend it - but it is not easy on the budget. It is very close in price to the Siggy's Artsy 24-100 F/4. Almost bought that. Had too choose and went for the speed of the Tammy over the reach of the Siggy. If you shoot low light without a good flash (or two), then F speed matters. If the kids are moving (and that is most of the time right?) then a fast focus is important.

If a FX body is on your "someday" list then I would agree with those recommend FX lenses. They work great on DX cameras like your 7000 but will be there for you when you go FX. ( BTW while it has a few distractors I find the D610 I have to be great FX camera and see it on discount a lot now - and if you see a fixed D600 it is even cheaper and one services (free) by Nikon is as good as the D610).

The other glass debate is Prime VS the other guys. I don't think it needs to be an either or debate as each have their place. Primes are supposed to be best at their focal length (and pixel peepers say they can prove it). Zooms, well they zoom which is very useful. Primes also tend to let you get a faster (eg 1.8) lens than zooms, and a good zoom will cost you more. Another point is that vintage primes can be just as good as new ones.

Some primes are great and won't break the bank - the Nifty 50 1.8 is almost manditory. On your DX the 35 1.8 is my go to fast lens for natural light shots. And while I don't have one yet, the 85 1.8 is also highly regarded as a staple lens for any kit bag.

Go Glass
 
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Bukitimah

Senior Member
Many would say it is the person behind that camera. BUT I would also say, that tools will also make that difference even that same person is taking that photo. So, both camera body and lens will give you that edge.

D7000 is a very capable camera but if you pick a higher grade body, you will get better result. The question is more if you want to spend that money. Then the next question is lens or body. The answer is no difference from the first.

Ultimately, if money is not a concern, buy the top range. If on budget, you need to find a combination the work best for you. For me, 50 & 85 mm prime lens don't work on DX camera.35mm at most beside the tele zoom.
 

Travis Garrett

Senior Member
I have the d7000 upgraded from a d5000 just recently. I could bought 7100,7200. For me I didn't seen a real significant improvement. To throw down the extra cash. Just my opinion would get some nice glass. I personally like prime lenses over zoom. The 35mm 1.8, 50mm 1.8 85mm 1.8 are great performers and tact sharp.

Sent from my 710C using Tapatalk
 

Bukitimah

Senior Member
With D7000 pre-owned going at that kind of price, it is a great buy if you aren't planning to go FX. However, I don't have the D7K nor the D7200 camera, so cannot tell if they perform equally under low light.

Personally, the ability to shoot at least iso 1000 - 2000 would be preferred. Of course if it can goes further, it is bonus.
 

lostnomore

Senior Member
With D7000 pre-owned going at that kind of price, it is a great buy if you aren't planning to go FX. However, I don't have the D7K nor the D7200 camera, so cannot tell if they perform equally under low light.

Personally, the ability to shoot at least iso 1000 - 2000 would be preferred. Of course if it can goes further, it is bonus.
The D750 gives incredible results at high ISO, even at ISO 6,400 and above. It would be well worth it for somebody considering an upgrade to FX to save up for this camera!
 
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