Tips need for Nikon D750 shoot in a low light condition with backlit

[wordlesstu]

Hi-

It is called "Le Petit Garage". It is in 11th District in Paris.https://www.facebook.com/lepetitgaragebar/

Looks like a cool bar. Where is it?

 

[wordlesstu]

Hi-

i could do it. Let me try to upload today and get back to you. Oz

Ooo...any way you would upload a NEF to dropbox and post the link here? I'd love to play around with an image.

 

[editorial_use_only]

I didn't bring flash light.

Maybe I missed this reading through the thread, but why didn't you use the pop-up flash?

Horoscope Fish already mentioned your exposure alternatives. Background, foreground, or balanced/in-between. Personally, I would have spot metered their faces (and used the pop-up flash). You could also have taken 1 exposure for the window/background, then 1 exposure for the foreground/performers, and blended the two in PP. Too time-consuming I think though, but if it was an important photo moment for you.

 

[wordlesstu]

Hi,

Thank you for your tips and suggestion. I didn't use pop up flash because I don't want to disturb the performer.
When you say "taken 1 exposure for the window/background, then 1 exposure for the foreground/performers", does it mean reduce 1 stop exposure for the window/background, and increase 1 stop exposure for the foreground/performers? What does pp stand for? :cheerful:

Maybe I missed this reading through the thread, but why didn't you use the pop-up flash?

Horoscope Fish already mentioned your exposure alternatives. Background, foreground, or balanced/in-between. Personally, I would have spot metered their faces (and used the pop-up flash). You could also have taken 1 exposure for the window/background, then 1 exposure for the foreground/performers, and blended the two in PP. Too time-consuming I think though, but if it was an important photo moment for you.

 

[Horoscope Fish]

Thank you for your tips and suggestion. I didn't use pop up flash because I don't want to disturb the performer.

I assumed that was the case and that's why I only touched on the topic of fill-flash. Live performances, especially in what appeared to me to be a rather intimate setting, does not lend itself to using flash for a multitude of reasons. Sometimes we simply have to work with the available light and make it work as best we can; get creative with it. Admittedly, though, sometimes circumstances conspire against us and getting exactly what we want is simply not possible. If that's the case, we have to take a pass on the shot or accept less than optimal results.

....

When you say "taken 1 exposure for the window/background, then 1 exposure for the foreground/performers", does it mean reduce 1 stop exposure for the window/background, and increase 1 stop exposure for the foreground/performers?

There is a technique called HDR (High Dynamic Range) that uses multiple shots of the same subject, each with a different level of exposure (one or more shots is exposed properly for the Highlights, one or more shots for the Midtones and one or more for the Shadows), and merges all of them into a single shot that captures the entire dynamic range. You can Google "HDR Photography", if you want, and see how it works. In my personal opinion, and this is JUST my opinion, this scenario did not call for HDR.

.....

What does pp stand for?

That's short-hand for post-processing.

 

[wordlesstu]

Hi Paul -
Thank you for sharing your thought. I agree with you.

I assumed that was the case and that's why I only touched on the topic of fill-flash. Live performances, especially in what appeared to me to be a rather intimate setting, does not lend itself to using flash for a multitude of reasons. Sometimes we simply have to work with the available light and make it work as best we can; get creative with it. Admittedly, though, sometimes circumstances conspire against us and getting exactly what we want is simply not possible. If that's the case, we have to take a pass on the shot or accept less than optimal results.

I was trying to use HDR function. When I want to active HDR in the setting, it says my camera doesn't support.
I w

There is a technique called HDR (High Dynamic Range) that uses multiple shots of the same subject, each with a different level of exposure (one or more shots is exposed properly for the Highlights, one or more shots for the Midtones and one or more for the Shadows), and merges all of them into a single shot that captures the entire dynamic range. You can Google "HDR Photography", if you want, and see how it works. In my personal opinion, and this is JUST my opinion, this scenario did not call for HDR.

.....
Thanks!
That's short-hand for post-processing.

 

[wordlesstu]

Hi,
I have uploaded the Raw file to dropbox, can you message me your email address so I can give you the link?

Ooo...any way you would upload a NEF to dropbox and post the link here? I'd love to play around with an image.

 

[wordlesstu]

Hi everyone-

Upon hark suggestion, I upload the photos in RAW file to a share folder. I post the link of the shared folder here, https://www.dropbox.com/sh/q723rkjhq0qpau9/AADM0NHOFiaLmuCUWY8JsuEHa?dl=0

Please let me know if you are interested in editing the photo.

Thank you so much!

 

[captured360]

Well first informals if you’re shooting in a little light situation always make sure we have a lens that the f-stop of 2.8 or Lower you have to remember the more you bump up your ISO the more noise you’re going to create in your photo so if there was slow movement you could’ve slowed down your shutter speed as well but it may cause a little blower if you’re holding it by hand remember if you’re using 85 mm the slowest you could bring your shutter speed is 85 it’s a rule that you never go below the lowest number when your Lynn’s for shutter speed


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[hark]

I had a go at this one but also chose a 2nd image that I will edit when I have time. When I raised the exposure, there are multiple colors of light present. The building on the far right is lit with fluorescent light (green color cast), the building behind the couple is tungsten (golden brown color cast), and then along the bottom edge of the image is a mauve color cast. I had trouble trying to match all the colors so I decided to convert to black and white. You could also opt to use a mask and have them in color with the rest being black & white.

I did most of my edits in Adobe Camera RAW before heading into PCC. I used Nik Dfine for noise reduction (couldn't get a whole lot of reduction with it) then converted to black & white in Camera RAW. Nik Silver Efex was going to use too much contrast during the conversion (which adds more noise) so that is why I chose Camera RAW for B&W conversion. I also tweaked the noise reduction there, too.

Then I went back to PCC and used a High Pass Filter mask for sharpening their faces slightly. There's going to be noise no matter what, but the exposure is raised enough to see some detail. You *should* be able to right click the image to open it in a separate tab/window. That will allow you to enlarge it the most.

 

[hark]

I chose this particular image because the original was very dark. I decided not to convert or try to correct the background colors although I dialed down the saturation on their faces.

The problem with editing images that are high ISO and underexposed is you can introduce artifacting. That's when areas within the image start to take on a squarish appearance. I could have used an adjustment brush and added more noise reduction to their clothing and the background, but my attention was primarily on their faces. In fact, when I used Nik Dfine for noise reduction, I wound up lowering the amount since the photo was way too creamy (smooth) and the artifacting was more noticeable. It's a juggling/balancing act when you encounter artifacting.

 

[wordlesstu]

Hi-

Thank you for your tips. I don't have budget to buy a lens with f2.8 now but I will consider getting one. Thank you for the reminder of shutter speed vs lens.

Well first informals if you’re shooting in a little light situation always make sure we have a lens that the f-stop of 2.8 or Lower you have to remember the more you bump up your ISO the more noise you’re going to create in your photo so if there was slow movement you could’ve slowed down your shutter speed as well but it may cause a little blower if you’re holding it by hand remember if you’re using 85 mm the slowest you could bring your shutter speed is 85 it’s a rule that you never go below the lowest number when your Lynn’s for shutter speed


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Needa]

Hi-

Thank you for your tips. I don't have budget to buy a lens with f2.8 now but I will consider getting one. Thank you for the reminder of shutter speed vs lens.

Thanks for uploading the files, it gave me a chance to play with a d750 file. You have gotten some good advice about metering back lit shots. Just one stop would have helped greatly from 125th to 60th. If you are going to be taking this type of shot infrequently don't forget about a prime lens. Looking forward to seeing more shots.

 

[Needa]

I chose this particular image because the original was very dark. I decided not to convert or try to correct the background colors although I dialed down the saturation on their faces.

The problem with editing images that are high ISO and underexposed is you can introduce artifacting. That's when areas within the image start to take on a squarish appearance. I could have used an adjustment brush and added more noise reduction to their clothing and the background, but my attention was primarily on their faces. In fact, when I used Nik Dfine for noise reduction, I wound up lowering the amount since the photo was way too creamy (smooth) and the artifacting was more noticeable. It's a juggling/balancing act when you encounter artifacting.

Cindy, Good tip about de-saturating the faces.

 

[wordlesstu]

Hi -

Thank you so much for the edit. It looks awesome. Thank you so much for the detailed explanation on your retouching approach. I will experiment it next time!:cheerful:

I chose this particular image because the original was very dark. I decided not to convert or try to correct the background colors although I dialed down the saturation on their faces.

The problem with editing images that are high ISO and underexposed is you can introduce artifacting. That's when areas within the image start to take on a squarish appearance. I could have used an adjustment brush and added more noise reduction to their clothing and the background, but my attention was primarily on their faces. In fact, when I used Nik Dfine for noise reduction, I wound up lowering the amount since the photo was way too creamy (smooth) and the artifacting was more noticeable. It's a juggling/balancing act when you encounter artifacting.

View attachment 300131

 

[Blade Canyon]

This was my favorite shot. It's very noisy but still a nice photo:



I edited this post to reduce saturation once I saw how it looked online...

 

[wordlesstu]

Thank you so much for the edit. Looks awesome!

This was my favorite shot. It's very noisy but still a nice photo:

View attachment 300263

I edited this post to reduce saturation once I saw how it looked online...