You went from 120 to 1.33 sec to 2.5 seconds, and then to 1/4000 sec and wonder why the image is dark?
Can't read the exif from tapatalk but if indeed that last one was shoot in program mode, there's something wrong going on with the camera software if not the with the shutter.
I don't think that's possible, plus the flash won't pop up.Not saying it wasn't, I'm saying I can't check what mode was selected. But if, indeed, it was P mode, I don't think you can rotate for negative EV *that* far as to make it pure black (or could you? Like, -10EV ?!)
Less I'm mistaken, flash won't pop up by itself in Program, Aperture priority, Shutter priority or Manual.
Look at nikon site to see if there's any firmware update, what they correct and how to install (basically, you copy a file to your sd-card)...
I'm afraid that it's a trip to the Camera Repair Shop for this old man.
OK I'm finally home. It looks like there is another thread with the same symptoms as mine (Nikon D5100 problems). Anyway, I took a few shots (below).
On Automatic is wasn't bad but not quite right.
View attachment 92016
Here is the same shot on "A" f/5.3, ISO 100
View attachment 92017
Another "S" (but I couldn't change the shutter speed),
View attachment 92019
Last one on "P" once again couldn't see to make any setting adjustments, and cannot get the Flash to pop up.
View attachment 92020
Can't read the exif from tapatalk but if indeed that last one was shoot in program mode, there's something wrong going on with the camera software if not the with the shutter.
1/20 of a second, at ƒ5, with an ISO of 3200. So this is at a fairly low light level. With these settings, the camera jacked up the ISO, so that it could take a picture at a reasonable shutter speed. At the size it appears here, it looks good, but I bet if you zoom in on your copy, you'll see an unusual amount of noise, due to the high ISO setting; think of that as being roughly analogous to the courser grain to be expected of using high-speed film in a stone-aged camera..
1.3 seconds, at ƒ5.3, with the ISO at 100. Not being allowed to jack up the ISO, the camera had no choice but to go with a slow shutter speed. I'm assuming the same level of light as the previous picture. You did a good job of holding the camera still, this time. Conventional wisdom holds that given a “normal” focal length lens, an average photographer can only get a good picture with a handheld camera down to about 1/30 or 1/25 of a second. Any slower than that, and it is traditionally expected that you need to use a tripod or some other good camera support. The VR feature seems to really help, here.
2.5 seconds, at ƒ9, and ISO 100. You didn't hold the camera as still this time, which is why it is blurry.
I think it is clear that in all of the above pictures, the problem is that you're shooting in low light, and you don't really know how to work the camera. In the “A” mode, the camera was able to jack up the ISO as needed, to get the other parameters reasonable. In the other modes, you had the IO locked at 100, which is just too low for handheld shots at that light level.
1/4000 of a second, at ƒ5, ISO 100. At that setting, in low light, I would expect no visible image; just solid black.
I do not think that there is is anything wrong with your camera. You just don't know how to use it. It seems to be working exactly as it ought to, under the conditions in which you are trying to use it. You just need to learn how to set it for these conditions.
I agree with your conclusions as well which is what I suspected and have mentioned on my initial post. The root cause is what we normally call "operator error".
For indoor, use a speed light or external flash. Use M mode to control the speed and aperture. Set ISO sensitivity to ISO 200 Max at ISO 3200. Set Auto ISO to "ON". In Manual mode, use 1/60, and whatever aperture you have depending on the focal length that is being used.
Like what I said, ISO 100 or 200 for indoor is going to give you a darker image unless you have a lot of lights that are turned on but I doubt it. Ideally, ISO 800 to 1,600 will be good.
Boy do I feel like a goober--well at least partially. I did change my ISO (which I know should be higher in low light, but I failed to do it). However, I can not get the flash to pop open. I have a SB600 Flash, that I normally use, but the bulb blew, and I have had it repaired yet. I apologize, for my ignorance, but I wonder if some of my problem is that my flash is not popping up when needed. Everything worked much better when placed on "M" and I was able to adjust some of the settings.
does the shutter release immediately when the button is pressed? i remember someone complaining of the same thing (not on this forum), as it turned out the timer shutter release was on and set to on 2 seconds, so he would press the shutter release button, then nothing would happen for two seconds, this he then interpreted as being "slow shutter speed". as you have not given us much concrete data to go on we should also consider the not so obvious possibilities.
does the shutter release immediately when the button is pressed? i remember someone complaining of the same thing (not on this forum), as it turned out the timer shutter release was on and set to on 2 seconds, so he would press the shutter release button, then nothing would happen for two seconds, this he then interpreted as being "slow shutter speed". as you have not given us much concrete data to go on we should also consider the not so obvious possibilities.
Maybe have a look in your shooting menu to make sure your flash is not disabled. There should be a small button to turn the flash on (I don't have the 5100 but I suspect is would be on the left side of the flash in the front of the cam). I'd also suggest you get some tutorials about light meters and exposure as there would be useful information for you to understand about before blaming the camera. Best of luck and enjoy your Nikon.