Clovishound
Senior Member
I will say that digital takes away the need for a lot of filters. Right now, I can only see the need for ND and polarizer filters. At least with the shooting I do.
Post your latest purchases.
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Blue439
New member
I agree. Same here. I believe there could be exceptions in some specialized fields such as astrophotography. I looked into that at some point and bought a so-called “didymium” filter or “red enhancer” which I ended up never using, as there are definitely not many areas around where I live that are dark enough to practice astro conveniently...
My latest purchase is a couple of these neoprene and soft fleece lens pouches by a German company called C-Rope (their website is here). I knew about the Tenba products and others of the same kind, I’ve had some, but the dimensions were not right for my “short but fat” Z lenses, such as the 14-30/4 and the 24-120/4.
Those C-Rope guys are the right size, well made with excellent quality materials, with a cover against dust, and they feature a pass-through for the belt and a carabiner to clip them on, say, belt loops. They’re very inexpensive and the best I could find, having done extensive market research. I warmly recommend them.
The thing is, my wife and I are contemplating a possible trip to Armenia, which is a bit out of the beaten track with Azerbaijan being so close, and although my preliminary research has not so far given me any cause for concern for daily safety on the street, I figure I may not want to go carrying one of my lovely, sleek (and terribly recognizable!) Peak Design backpacks that scream “photo bag, steal me, expensive stuff inside!” to the knowledgeable eye.
So, the idea would be to go with a used and very worn basic Eastpak bag that would not attract any particular attention. The lenses would be stowed side by side (or piled up haphazardly!) within, and in order to prevent them from rubbing and scratching against one another, those C-Rope soft cases will work perfectly, while allowing me to take one out and clip it on a belt loop for easy access while shooting on site.
Blue439
New member
Following my previous post of that new K&F Concept EN-EL15 battery, my report after three cycles of use (fully charged to fully discharged) is that it takes indeed a lot longer for this battery to start sloping down, compared to Nikon ones. However, once it reaches less than 50 percent of charge, it tends to go down very quickly, surprisingly quickly, and much quicker than a Nikon one.
The Nikon batteries have a shorter lifetime (to be expected: 2,280 mAh versus 2,600 for the K&F) but spend their charge more evenly over that lifetime, with no “cliff effect”.
The little cable that K&F supplies to plug directly into the battery and charge from a USB socket is lovely and works a charm, particularly to recharge the battery on the go from a spare portable battery or in the car.
In summary, is it a good purchase? Yes, for the longer overall lifetime and unbeatable price —but you need to factor in the steep discharge between, say, 30 percent and zero, when you’re out in the field.
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Blue439
New member
Sirui is not a bad brand. Chinese-made, of course, but not bad. Like Neewer and a couple of others. However, I've always stayed away from those flipping locks on tripod legs, as I find they work best as finger-pinchers. To secure tripod legs, I prefer rotating rings. All I can say about tripods, having owned quite a few and made the usual mistakes is: Don't skimp either on the legs or on the head. Inferior gear will soon reveal itself and remain forever in a closet, as nobody will want to buy it secondhand. Better wait a little longer, save more, and acquire good gear that will be with you for as long as you keep shooting.
Cameras, however good, come and go as technology advances, even lenses do sometimes, but good tripods remain. My favorite brand is Gitzo, not because it is French (actually it was acquired by Manfrotto some time ago and the tripods are now made in Italy) but because I haven't found any better one. My midsize one has been with me for almost 20 years now, good as new structurally but also mechanically (very important, of course!). My big one I've had for 12 years, my small travel one for 6 years. I don't brutalize them, but I've never babied them either, I just treat them as tools for a job. I don't see the need to change any of them in the foreseeable future.
Good luck with your new and future tripods!
Cameras, however good, come and go as technology advances, even lenses do sometimes, but good tripods remain. My favorite brand is Gitzo, not because it is French (actually it was acquired by Manfrotto some time ago and the tripods are now made in Italy) but because I haven't found any better one. My midsize one has been with me for almost 20 years now, good as new structurally but also mechanically (very important, of course!). My big one I've had for 12 years, my small travel one for 6 years. I don't brutalize them, but I've never babied them either, I just treat them as tools for a job. I don't see the need to change any of them in the foreseeable future.
Good luck with your new and future tripods!
Blue439
New member
On Youtube I enjoy watching the no-nonsense videos posted by a UK product photographer named Scott Chouciño. He has excellent tips. Among the accessories he advises the use of is a “dummy battery”, which apparently is a device that you insert into the camera, making it think it is equipped with a battery, while it is in fact connected to the mains, allowing you to work all day if needed without having to worry about power supply —as long as you are someplace where you can remain plugged into a wall socket, of course.
I didn’t know such a clever device existed, but I did a bit of market research for our cameras, and I found this Neewer model that looks good.
Now, I was wondering how the cable would go through or around the battery trapdoor... Well, on the product description photos, there is one that shows a little rubber opening one can flip open or closed... I went back to my Z7 II, and even though I had never suspected its existence, it sure is there, and can indeed be opened for the cable to snake through...!
It is not expensive: 30 dollars in the US (on Amazon here), 38 euros in France (the VAT is the difference, I suspect), and I might get one, although these days I do not run such long sessions in the studio as a guy like Chouciño does. But “Be prepared!” as they say.
What do you guys think? Would you buy one?
I didn’t know such a clever device existed, but I did a bit of market research for our cameras, and I found this Neewer model that looks good.
Now, I was wondering how the cable would go through or around the battery trapdoor... Well, on the product description photos, there is one that shows a little rubber opening one can flip open or closed... I went back to my Z7 II, and even though I had never suspected its existence, it sure is there, and can indeed be opened for the cable to snake through...!
It is not expensive: 30 dollars in the US (on Amazon here), 38 euros in France (the VAT is the difference, I suspect), and I might get one, although these days I do not run such long sessions in the studio as a guy like Chouciño does. But “Be prepared!” as they say.
What do you guys think? Would you buy one?
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Clovishound
Senior Member
The Z7ii can be powered by the USB C port. Just plug in a USB C cord to the camera port, and the other end to a power source. Either an external battery, or a wall plug converter. I would prefer the battery. It is far more portable. They are readily available as backup for cell phones. You could carry it a in pocket while shooting, with a cord running to the camera vs being tied to a wall plug with a cord running across the floor.
Z7ii online manual: Power Delivery
Z7ii online manual: Power Delivery
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Blue439
New member
Very true, of course. The fact that I forgot about that, although I must have known it at some point, tells you how familiar I am with this sort of topic!
Sort of makes my point moot, although that dummy battery exists for many other models of older Nikon cameras that aren’t as versatile as the Z7 II.
Dawg Pics
Senior Member
I have 2 aluminum tripods that are very old and broken. One is a heavy Manfrotto/Bogen with a flip-lever mechanism and the other is a Bogen that uses thumb-screws. It has an old Bogen pistol-grip stuck on it. I might be able to loosen the pistol-grip with some penetrating oil. If not, it is going to the dump. I like that pistol grip because it is easy to use and very easy to mount my camera on, but it can't handle my large lens. My other head could handle my large lens, but it was a very old 3-axis head that was increasingly difficult to use. I finally ditched it.
I haven't purchased a Sirui product before and was a bit hesitant, but this one had the features I wanted without being too pricey. It is only for astro, so it won't be getting used that much. I like the way the flip-locks looked on this one. They don't appear to flip all the way over, and they look kind of beefy. The flip locks the Manfrottos and Benros didn't look comfortable at all. I am not a fan of the twist mechanisms, so I wan't to try out both types before I buy a day use tripod. I miss good brick and mortar camera stores.
Blue439
New member
When I use flash, I don’t like to work with the light on the camera. Whenever possible, I set up my flash or flashes on stands that I position wherever needed. I set and trigger them via a radio gizmo attached to the camera’s hotshoe.
With the big studio flashes (“monolights”, as they’re called), I have to use sturdy light stands because they are heavy and the modifiers on them (softboxes and the like) are likely to be large or very large. But when I use cobra flashes, I make do with smaller and lighter Manfrotto Nano stands. The irritating problem I have been faced with for some time is finding a good little ball head to orient the flash once it’s attached on top of the stand. This accessory needs to be very versatile to give as much flexibility as possible as to where to point the flash, at the same time it must be sturdy, nice and progressive to manipulate with a quality feeling to them, and remain invariably in the chosen position when tightened.
I have tried many of various makes, and I have finally found the right ones, made by a Chinese (what else?) manufacturer under the brand “Sioti”. They are quite inexpensive but of surprisingly good quality, and having now tested them in the field, I have bought a couple to equip all my small-flash stands (the two Manfrotto Nanos and several sets of Neewer short ones for tabletop work). For you guys in the US, they can be found on Amazon here, and I’m sure elsewhere. I recommend them. Make sure you get the MX–20 model, Sioti makes others that I found of lesser quality, while being still acceptable.
Next week, we are leaving for a two-week trip to Provence, the primary purpose of which is to allow my wife to do watercolor. While she is busy doing that, I will from time to time escape to do one or two Romanesque churches, as there still are a few in the area I haven't seen yet, but I will also do all sorts of general photography attempts, and I intend to bring two or three cobra flashes to use out in the field. Those little Sioti ball heads will hopefully be put to some use!
With the big studio flashes (“monolights”, as they’re called), I have to use sturdy light stands because they are heavy and the modifiers on them (softboxes and the like) are likely to be large or very large. But when I use cobra flashes, I make do with smaller and lighter Manfrotto Nano stands. The irritating problem I have been faced with for some time is finding a good little ball head to orient the flash once it’s attached on top of the stand. This accessory needs to be very versatile to give as much flexibility as possible as to where to point the flash, at the same time it must be sturdy, nice and progressive to manipulate with a quality feeling to them, and remain invariably in the chosen position when tightened.
I have tried many of various makes, and I have finally found the right ones, made by a Chinese (what else?) manufacturer under the brand “Sioti”. They are quite inexpensive but of surprisingly good quality, and having now tested them in the field, I have bought a couple to equip all my small-flash stands (the two Manfrotto Nanos and several sets of Neewer short ones for tabletop work). For you guys in the US, they can be found on Amazon here, and I’m sure elsewhere. I recommend them. Make sure you get the MX–20 model, Sioti makes others that I found of lesser quality, while being still acceptable.
Next week, we are leaving for a two-week trip to Provence, the primary purpose of which is to allow my wife to do watercolor. While she is busy doing that, I will from time to time escape to do one or two Romanesque churches, as there still are a few in the area I haven't seen yet, but I will also do all sorts of general photography attempts, and I intend to bring two or three cobra flashes to use out in the field. Those little Sioti ball heads will hopefully be put to some use!
Most decent tripods rated for 22 pounds and higher should be able to support the weight of the Sigma lens. If I were to look for another tripod, I wouldn't hesitate to look at Leofoto. I purchased one of their monopods and liked it so much that I purchased a second one. But it has twist locks which isn't your preference.
I also have 2 Sirui monopods both with twist locks - one aluminum and one carbon fiber. I also like them a lot, and their quality is very good. But when the beefy Leofoto carbon fiber monopod showed up for $73 plus tax, it was money well spent especially for two of them. The Leofoto monopods have much thicker legs - even thicker than my Gitzo Mountaineer Carbon Fiber Tripod.
What you want to be concerned with is the head. That's what might not be as supportive. Since heads can be changed, there are many of great quality out there. I hope you find something you'll really enjoy using!
Dawg Pics
Senior Member
Thanks for the recommendation. Yeah, I have issues with twisting mechanisms, but most people seem to like them because they can't pinch fingers.
My Sirui arrived, and it will do just fine for the star tracker, which came with its own equatorial wedge mount. It is a no frills tripod, but appears to be steady enough, and it has a hook if I want to add weight to it. I think the tracker has an 11 pound limit.
I had purchased a pricey Manfrotto ball-head and hated it. It went back to Adorama, so I still need a head. I can use the tracker without one, but I still need one for day use, and my old heads are long-in-the-tooth and drift with the weight of the Sigma.
Patrick M
Senior Member
While I have a ball head, I still prefer geared heads. Both of my Gitzo tripods each have their own Manfrotto geared head. However, I don't think this model is made anymore. I think I just happened to luck out getting them because they are very supportive. They have 3 handles so they aren't always fast to adjust. But since I first learned with a Bogen 3047 head, these are pretty much the same thing.
Dawg Pics
Senior Member
I learned using a pistol grip that had a Bogen quick release plate. I had a huge 3 axis head, but I never got used to it. I really liked the Bogen plate because I could easily and quickly put my camera on it and remove it. They still make the plate, so I am considering getting something and adding that plate to it. I just need to make a decision, which is difficult when I can't see the darned things in person.
Clovishound
Senior Member
I know what you mean. I'm thinking about getting a travel tripod that will easily fit on my backpack to have when out shooting and not hauling my large and heavy tripod. I'm having a really hard time deciding since I can't see them, and set one up and see how sturdy it really is. I don't expect rock solid from a travel pod, but some are really wobbly, and some are not too bad.
The Pup ended up with a small Benro Mefoto that looks pretty good. despite it's size and weight, it is reasonably stable. I've seen a few others that look like they might be better, but again, without seeing them in person, who knows?
The Pup ended up with a small Benro Mefoto that looks pretty good. despite it's size and weight, it is reasonably stable. I've seen a few others that look like they might be better, but again, without seeing them in person, who knows?
Dawg Pics
Senior Member
I am not sure what weight class a travel tripod falls into. Feather Weight, Light Weight, Bantam Weight?
They seem to weigh between 3 and 4 pounds, but the tripods that aren't marketed as travel also can weigh that much. I was looking at the B and H site, and they have every filter except the weight of the tripod itself. 
Clovishound
Senior Member
I am more concerned with the folded length of the pod than weight. Having said that, being in my 70s, I don't want to increase the weight of my backpack by too much (it's already up to 20+ lbs), but even a 5 lb pod would be OK. The biggest issue for me is that a tripod that starts getting too much more than 14" folded becomes too cumbersome to fit properly on my backpack.