The Saint-Hilaire church in Semur-en-Brionnais (2023)
The Brionnais is a small barony at the southernmost tip of the large duchy of Burgundy. It was the fief of the Semur family, whose castle stood in the eponymous village. That family of local barons would have gone basically unnoticed through History, had it not been for Hugues, born in 1024, who went on to become probably the most famous abbot of Cluny, the most powerful abbey that ever was, between 1049 and 1109. Builder of the so-called “Cluny III” abbey church, the largest ever in Christendom, he considerably expanded the Order of Cluny (which was part of the Benedictines) all over Europe during his 60-year abbacy.
One of the most powerful people (and one of the most learned minds) of his time, later canonized by the Church as saint Hugues (Hugh in English), he sent architects and builders from Cluny to his native village to build this church dedicated to Saint Hilaire (Hillary in English). Hugues himself never saw the church being built, as its oldest parts (traditionally, the apse and apsidioles, the choir and transept, and the beginning of the nave) were erected from the year 1115. The portals were finished and decorated during the 1180s, towards the end of the Romanesque age, at a point when many consider the Romanesque art was already “perverted” by mannerisms announcing the age of the Gothic.
Saint-Hilaire was turned into a college church in 1274 when Baron Jean de Semur and the bishop of Autun jointly incorporated a college of 13 canons to take care of the
Opus Dei in the church. Damaged during the Hundred Years War (1364), and yet again during the Wars of Religion (1576), the church was listed as a Historic Landmark in 1862 and the stone vaulting which had been destroyed and replaced temporarily by a timber roof, was rebuilt. Being the last Romanesque church ever built in the Brionnais, Saint-Hilaire skillfully incorporates tradition from the local art, and inputs from the most noble and powerful house of Cluny, which was then undoubtedly the dominant power in Western Christendom, above and beyond the Pope —in practice, if not in principle.
The corbel tribune we see in this photo is a direct tribute to that in the enormous Cluny III abbey church. That church exists no more, the one in Semur endures.
Nikon Z7 II, Micro-Nikkor 85mm, ƒ/2.8 PC-E D tilt-shift macro lens, manual focus. FTZ II adapter. Gitzo tripod, Benro geared head. Natural light.