Many thanks for your appreciation, guys (and gals)!
The Benedictine abbey of Fleury (2022)
Now, are you ready to take another plunge into early Middle Ages history? Here we go...
The small French town of Saint-Benoît-sur-Loire, not far from the city of Orléans, is the location of the Benedictine abbey of Fleury. There are at least two reasons why this abbey is famous worldwide among Mediævalists and beyond: an architectural reason, and a historical one.
The architectural reason is the presence of the enormous and splendid tower-porch built under Abbot Gauzlin, whose abbacy ran from 1004 to 1030. It is a wonder of Romanesque architecture and art.
The historical reason, which makes this abbey even more unique, is that it houses the bones of saint Benoît, Saint Benedict in English, the founder and father of all monasticism in the Western World. Benoît, born Benedetto around 480 in Umbria (modern-day Italy), founded the Monte Cassino monastery in 529 and died there in 547. His Rule remains to this day the governing law of all Benedictine monasteries worldwide —and that of several other religious orders inspired y it, such as the Cistercians, who were a Year 1000 offshoot of the Benedictines.
Around 580, the monastery on Monte Cassino (roughly between Rome and Naples) was destroyed by a Lombard raid. The place was left deserted and utterly unoccupied for more than a century. In the late 600s, the abbot of Fleury, who had heard about the desertion and the fact that neither the remains of Saint Benedict, nor those of Saint Scholastica, his sister who had been buried with him, were properly honored, sent out a search-and-rescue party of monks led by Aygulf. They reached Cassino, discovered the resting place of the saints among the ruins of the abandoned monastery, and brought them back to France in 703. The bones of saint Benoît remain to this day in Fleury, while those of Scholastica went to the cathedral in Le Mans.
Some Italians, of course, disagree and claim that the bones of the saint never left Cassino. You will even find some modern-day internet websites that claim it! Having researched the question quite extensively, and read in particular a comprehensive (150 pages!) memoir published in 1882 by R.P. Dom François Chamard, osb, a brother of the abbey of Ligugé, my opinion is that the bones of saint Benoît were indeed transported to France (19th-century forensic examination of the bones goes in the same direction), even though a few of them may have inadvertently been overlooked and left in the tomb at Cassino because they were not properly identified as human bones in 703. Some of them were also given back to the Monte Cassino monks who had come to Fleury around 750 to ask for them once the decision had been made to rebuild the monastery there. This approach is also proof that the Italian monks themselves, very shortly after the fact, believed the bones of Benoît had indeed been carried away to France, since they went there to ask for them.
The abbey of Fleury is on the UNESCO World Heritage list.
The apse of the abbey church is grandiose and magnificent. However, it is surrounded by other buildings and truly cannot be admired except from way back, shooting across a schoolyard and above the low roofs of the covered playground. The various architectural parts are, from bottom (front) to top (back): the small radiating chapels; the ambulatory; and the apse proper.
Nikon Z7 II, Micro-Nikkor 85mm, ƒ/2.8D PC-E tilt-shift lens, manual focus, FTZ II adapter. Gitzo tripod, Benro geared head.