Newbie with a few Questions :)

[Rawfocus]

Hi all,

Firstly I just want to say hello and introduce myself. My names Rory and I would definitely consider myself in the casual/amateur group when it comes to photography.

This does not mean that I am not somewhat of a perfectionist though, I just have too many hobbies to put the time in to photography it deserves.

One of said hobbies is fishing. I love wildlife and being outdoors and this is where my need for decent photography starts. I definitely have a natural ability to shoot a great composition with little effort, I guess it's a subconscious OCD type thing that everything needs to be in its place, but further than that I'm a little off having much ability.

I upgraded to my first and current DSLR 2 years ago, as my camera at the time could not seem to capture either an unexpected glimpse of a swooping Barn-owl nor any beautiful low light level shots by the waterside without the aid of a flash.

Admittedly, the time I should be putting in to learning how to use my new toy has not been fulfilled, but I saw the purchase as somewhat an investment.

A problem I've had is that my computer is very poor and as a result, I have not yet installed the cd manual, which I'm guessing may answer a few basics (such as how do I adjust the image preview time to upwards of the ridiculously short 2-3 seconds it is as standard?or How is it possible to see what settings a particular shot was taken under-so the image achieved can be replicated?)

The camera is fantastic and I have managed a few shots i'm really proud of, I will post a couple up tonight. I only have a standard 18-55mm lens so am limited to what I have so far produced, but look forward to obtaining a few additions.

The worst thing about the camera from my point of view which is sods law, is that both the multiple burst and timer are on the same switch-which means a lot of faffing around if I am doing self takes of my prize catch.

My solution was to buy a cheap locking switch off ebay and just set the camera to burst. It works (although the socket has a dodgy connection) but the inconsistency of the shots which came out last time were pretty eye-opening.

So, bearing in mind that I have no subject to focus on in this scenario, what is the best way of ensuring I get decent shots? I can set the zoom length to fit the frame (where I'll be when returning with fish) but what other settings will ensure crisp focus of the prize monster i'm holding whilst blurring the background?

I think I shot with Aperture priority last time, which as I understand is something to do with blurring backgrounds (but maybe priority sets this up the wrong way?). Also focal settings themselves, when on auto (and obviously not behind the camera to see) how can I guarantee the lens will focus on the fish/myself first and foremost? (ie relationship between Apperture and focus)

Any advice and info would be much appreciated. I have read quite a lot about the use/functions of DSLRs but how to implement this info to my specific requirements/using D3100 is a little trickier.

Sorry for the waffling, another activity I could make a hobby

Many thanks

 

[Marilynne]

Welcome!

 

[Dave_W]

Welcome to Nikonites, Rawfocus. Lot's of great people here.

Although I read your post several times, I'm not really sure I understand it. Is there a question in there that I'm just missing?

 

[BackdoorArts]

Sounds like you're looking to take some "selfies" of you and whatever you might have hauled into the boat/onto the dock that day, right? If not, the rest of this was merely a typing exercise. LOL

Go into your Custom Menus under Timers and adjsut your Self-timer settings to give you enough time to get from behind the camera out in front (6-10 sec). Then have it fire off 3-10 frames allowing you to pose with your catch. Stick the camera somewhere secure and aim it at where you'd like to pose. If you can prefocus on something that will guarantee you're in focus, do that (use autofocus to lock it in, or do it manually, and then set the lens on manual focus so it doesn't hunt for something else), otherwise set it on AF-C with as many focal points as possible and move around a bit between shots so it finds you. Use A mode and set the aperture to give you enough depth of field to make sure everything you want to be in docus actually is. Depress the shutter to get the timer going, grab your fish and get your model on.

You can also use your remote to actuate the timer as well, making sure you're somewhere that the camera can focus on you.

 

[alfaholic]

I think I shot with Aperture priority last time, which as I understand is something to do with blurring backgrounds (but maybe priority sets this up the wrong way?). Also focal settings themselves, when on auto (and obviously not behind the camera to see) how can I guarantee the lens will focus on the fish/myself first and foremost? (ie relationship between Apperture and focus)

You should know 3 things when it comes to manual use of your camera, Aperture, Shutter Speed, and ISO.

Aperture is used to control how much light is coming through the lens to your sensor, also the side effect is blurred background, or sharp just as your subject of focus is. Aperture is measured by f number, and it is the exact oposite of the f number, when you see on your camera f3.5 it means that more light is coming through the lens than on f22.
At the same time with f3.5 your background will be more blurred than at f22, so you have full control of your scene and what you want to achieve.

Shutter speed gives you control of the time your sensor is exposed, and as a side effect you get blurred moving subjects at slow shutter speeds, and at higher speeds you freeze your subject.

ISO is sensitivity of your sensor. For low light conditions higher ISO will give you ability to have faster shutter speeds, but with some noise.
The best way to have noiseless photos is to keep your ISO as low as possible, and bring it higher just if your shutter speed is less than 1/30 s, but in some cases you have to ignore his "rule".

Sorry for my broken English, but I think this is a simple answer to your question.

 

[Rawfocus]

You should know 3 things when it comes to manual use of your camera, Aperture, Shutter Speed, and ISO.

Aperture is used to control how much light is coming through the lens to your sensor, also the side effect is blurred background, or sharp just as your subject of focus is. Aperture is measured by f number, and it is the exact oposite of the f number, when you see on your camera f3.5 it means that more light is coming through the lens than on f22.
At the same time with f3.5 your background will be more blurred than at f22, so you have full control of your scene and what you want to achieve.

Shutter speed gives you control of the time your sensor is exposed, and as a side effect you get blurred moving subjects at slow shutter speeds, and at higher speeds you freeze your subject.

ISO is sensitivity of your sensor. For low light conditions higher ISO will give you ability to have faster shutter speeds, but with some noise.
The best way to have noiseless photos is to keep your ISO as low as possible, and bring it higher just if your shutter speed is less than 1/30 s, but in some cases you have to ignore his "rule".

Sorry for my broken English, but I think this is a simple answer to your question.

Cheers for the briefing and thanks to all for contributing. I'm on my phone so will keep this one short

I get the idea of shutter speed, probably the simplest thing to understand. I understand that aperture equates to being the "eye" of the camera and what I gather is that infact the wider the eye the more the area around the subject is blurred. The one I know little on is iso.

Function wise I'm pretty hopeless when it comes to auto focus, which when doing self takes or shooting fast moving objects is pretty important. So the d3100 has 12 points of focus, but in the instance of shooting a self take of me with a fish would it be recommended to use just a single point autofocus (as opposed to auto area or multi)?

Just to make you aware, the fish are still alive and well after they are caught.they are also valuable to those that own them, hence I need to get my perfect shot done within a minute or so!

cheers

 

[alfaholic]

Basically, ISO represents the sensitivity of the film in analog camera, and the sensor in your DSLR Nikon.
In analog world that sensitivity depends of the chemicals used in film creation, so less sensitive film will give you better results in terms of noise and grain, but greater ISO values will give you better exposure at the cost of a greater noise and grain.
It is almost the same in your digital camera, just you do not have the film anymore, you now have the sensor.
Put your camera to Aperture Priority, shoot with ISO 100, and then the same thing with ISO HI2, then you will see the difference.

As for self portrait, I think the best way to do it is to hire someone to handle the camera while you are there with the fish.
If you still want to do it your self, then you need to select central focus point, and put your camera to the tripod.
Find something to put in front of the camera and place it at the same place you will stay with the fish, so you can focus at the right distance.
Then turn on 10s shutter release, move to the exact place where you putted the object for focusing, and wait.
Yes, stones and sticks, but it will work.

 

[Eye-level]

With aperture the wider you open it and the more distance between your subject and the background you are going to get a stronger blur effect. Sometimes you'll want to stop down a lens though so that all of the picture is in focus - stopping down will increase your depth of field. ISO is an international standard for rating speed just as ASA was the international standard for rating the speed of film back in the day. DIN was like the original German version of rating film speed. In daylight you want to use a low ISO (always use the lowest ISO possible to get the shot) in the dark you want to use a higher ISO. Newer cameras tend to have really good high ISO performance.

 

[Rawfocus]

Hi all, thanks for your inputs and briefings about how the various terminologies actually work on the camera, im fascinated to now tinker with various things and see how different settings affect each other.

I will ask one question and one only for now and that is to Eye-level after his post. You say ''Sometimes you'll want to stop down a lens though so that all of the picture is in focus - stopping down will increase your depth of field''.

Ok, firstly, what is ''stopping down''? and secondly Why would you shoot in a high Aperture if you wanted to focus on things in the background?

Thanks!

 

[Don Kuykendall_RIP]

Hi all, thanks for your inputs and briefings about how the various terminologies actually work on the camera, im fascinated to now tinker with various things and see how different settings affect each other.

I will ask one question and one only for now and that is to Eye-level after his post. You say ''Sometimes you'll want to stop down a lens though so that all of the picture is in focus - stopping down will increase your depth of field''.

Ok, firstly, what is ''stopping down''? and secondly Why would you shoot in a high Aperture if you wanted to focus on things in the background?

Thanks!

Depth-of-field explained

The Effect of Aperture/F-Stop on Depth of Field

 

[Eye-level]

What is that one thing called...the exposure triangle or whatever...look into that and learn it until you know it backwards and forwards...

 

[Rawfocus]

Hi all, I hope you are well!

After posting up my previous questions and having a play I think Ive sussed how to achieve my main objective, hence I've not posted up any pics.

Although I've yet to to explore the kind advice you gave me regarding the other basic principles of photography I look forward to getting out and having a good old play!

I do however have a quick question regarding shooting in complete darkness. I fished Saturday night and after a quick google found that I needed af-assist on to light up the scene.

So, I framed my scene, set the d3100 to auto, burst, af-assist on. I tested this out first with it focussed on the cradles we use to support the fish (yes, I said cradles!). It focused successfully for one shot but did not fancy doing more despite being locked on burst(remote fully depressed)the light going out after the first shot.

Is this because the d3100 requires an initial half depression of the button for it to light the scene and focus? (It auto focusses fine fully depressed during daylight). I was hoping by the time I was in the scene it would be able to focus/light better.

The two shots I did afterwards on timer came out completely unfocused-in hindsight I could have got a lot closer to the camera to help with it finding me/lighting me up, maybe this was the problem all along?

Really disappointed it couldn't take multiple shots or even focus for the couple that took. It annoys me even more so when a fellow angler with a standard digi shows me a perfect set of self take night shots all done on auto!!?

Any advice would be MUCH appreciated, I got very cold and wet Saturday night and have no evidence for the hard work!

Many thanks

Rory

 

[Marcel]

Most DSLRs need a half shutter press to start focusing. And focusing in the dark can be tricky to say the least. Best of luck!

 

[Rawfocus]

Most DSLRs need a half shutter press to start focusing. And focusing in the dark can be tricky to say the least. Best of luck!

When doing this in the day it works fine. A half depression focuses on whatever and then i lock the remote fully depressed.I then jump in front of the camera and the auto focus finds me, I can move about get closer hold the fish at different angles etc and it just keeps adjusting focus and shooting continuously.

So, when doing this in the dark with af assist (the light) it focuses initially on the Carp cradle (in darkness it obviously needs something near to focus on). Then I lock fully depressed as per above, only in this instance because the light goes out after the first shot (despite being on continuous burst mode) it cannot see what to focus on as its then pitch black.

So, with that in mind, is there an option on the af-assist for the light to stay on continuously regardless of shoot mode?because surely that's all a standard digital is doing to get the shots my fellow anglers achieve?

i guess the final option if not is to buy an external light, not ideal in the mud and rain.

Surely some of you kind folk have a solution, the principles in question are fairly basic, it's just the d3100s specific functions that are stumping me

Many thanks

 

[Dave_W]

Once you obtain focus (ie - first shot) turn off your auto-focus or lock the auto-focus and continue shooting (assuming you're not moving the camera). When I'm shooting in dark situations I bring a powerful flashlight with me and will illuminate a point that I want to focus on and once focus is obtained I turn off my auto-focus. In the case where I'm taking a landscape photo and am unable to illuminate the scene I use the markings on the lens itself having memorized approximately where the setting goes when I'm shooting long distance landscapes in the daylight. And when guesstimating in the dark I compensate by stopping down the lens a little to account for whatever amount I'm off with my long distance focus.

 

[Marcel]

When doing this in the day it works fine. A half depression focuses on whatever and then i lock the remote fully depressed.I then jump in front of the camera and the auto focus finds me, I can move about get closer hold the fish at different angles etc and it just keeps adjusting focus and shooting continuously.

So, when doing this in the dark with af assist (the light) it focuses initially on the Carp cradle (in darkness it obviously needs something near to focus on). Then I lock fully depressed as per above, only in this instance because the light goes out after the first shot (despite being on continuous burst mode) it cannot see what to focus on as its then pitch black.

So, with that in mind, is there an option on the af-assist for the light to stay on continuously regardless of shoot mode?because surely that's all a standard digital is doing to get the shots my fellow anglers achieve?

i guess the final option if not is to buy an external light, not ideal in the mud and rain.

Surely some of you kind folk have a solution, the principles in question are fairly basic, it's just the d3100s specific functions that are stumping me

Many thanks

The only solution I have to offer you, and maybe it wouldn't be possible since I don't know exactly what you are trying to achieve, is to pre-focus and then turn the auto-focus off. Since you are going to be at about the same distance, if you use flash and high enough iso, you should be able to get an OK Depth of Field to cover. You can then take all the pics you want and as long as you don't move back and forth from the camera, you pics would all be in focus.

Would that work for you?

 

[RockyNH_RIP]

One of the things I do with night/dark/hard to focus.. use a light to focus on "something" where I want to be. Then once set, I switch it to manual focus. You can now shoot all the self shots you want from that location until you change.

I have used this to focus on water drops and then take bursts while in manual focus ....

Pat in NH

 

[Rawfocus]

Hi all, I trust we are well!

I posed the question about shooting in the dark to Nikon support and they have basically said that the af-assist light CANNOT remain on during burst mode-hence only one shot can be taken (the focus of the first shot is possible when shutter semi depressed)

So, as Rocky kindly suggested I tried switching to manual focus (I had hoped this whole issue was down to me shooting in auto focus mode) HOWEVER, despite being ''allowed'' to shoot one single shot in the pitch dark why won't my camera still not allow me to shoot multiples in burst mode!? Its not having to think about focussing, its not having to turn a light on...!?

If this were possible I could indeed use a remote switch to lock the shutter depressed and shoot ahoy, alas it does not seem possible.

It looks like a self take kit with a pressure switch is going to be my only joy, either that or I set up a stadiums worth of lights to replicate day time conditions-not practical when fishing!

One thing I will say is I was testing the D3100s ability to autofocus on a single shot in the dark and was very impressed. I used the timer (as i would do as last resort when fishing) with auto focus and the af-assist light, both of which would have picked up my tent as POF. I fully depressed the shutter and then ran round and placed myself in front of the tent and behind my special Carp-Cradle and it managed to focus on ME when it went off.

Now bearing in mind I wasn't there when the camera first focussed this is pretty good...i'm guessing this is to do with the cameras depth of field? and not making a last minutes focus adjustment whilst the timer light flashed or flash went off? Yes I really do have that little an understanding of how this kit works!

Any further advice/confirmations (particularly on my main issue) would be much appreciated!

​Cheers folks

 

[glesgaboy]

hi there, reading through what you have been saying seems your getting to grips with things. I'm stilllearning a lot and i have found this website really useful. his videos explaing everything are really helpful and easy to follow. Photography Courses, Workshops, 1:1 Tuition & Free Videos

 

[squeashy]

Ahem, hi, my names Ama. I got a used nikon D3100 on christmas last year from my grandpa. I still consider myself a newbie in photography (same with this forum, never used one in my life). However recently (like 2 weeks recently) I was using my D3100 and something strange happened. The camera completely froze! It started with not wanting to focus, then it didn't want to change any of the settings like shutter speed, f stop etc (I was using the manual setting btw, lens in auto focus) and the strangest of all is that even turning the camera off it didn't turn off! I had to take the battery out in order to shut it all down! Once I inserted the battery back in it all went back to functioning as it should. It's happened twice now and I don't know nor understand what's going on with my baby. Please, does anyone know what could be happening with my camera? Any info I can get my hands on will be helpful.