New Member, switching to Nikon! Need help!

stmv

Senior Member
super,, I think your choice of the 7100 is perfect, most bang for the buck,,,, sure, you can someday get a D600,, or D800, but dollar for dollar can't beat the 7100.. it produces vibrant pictures, light weight, tough, shoots over 50 years of Nikon Glass,, how sweet is that..

I recommend gettting some old school glass (Manual AIS) just for kicks.. and one generation back Pro glass... used is great with Nikkor.

​enjoy.
 

TaylorGT

Senior Member
Thanks guys, you're making the price tag of this camera feel much better. I used it for about 10 minutes last night and loved it. I think I might try soime AIS lenses next.

I'm still really struggling with the whole AF-A/AF-S/AF-C thing. When I was in AF, I was manually moving the box around the viewfinder through all of the 51 points to focus where I wanted. Seemed a little slow like I would miss somthing if im trying to capture a puppy or young kid.
 

JudeIscariot

Senior Member
For less than a D7000, you could pick up a D300 or D300S if you're lucky, and then you're into what Nikon classifies as the professional bodies. A D300 will run you about $500 through eBay, and a D300s about 700-750. A D7000 shouldn't be any less... At least, a few months ago when I was looking into this, they were the same or more.

But if you really want something in the consumer range, go for it.
 

TaylorGT

Senior Member
For less than a D7000, you could pick up a D300 or D300S if you're lucky, and then you're into what Nikon classifies as the professional bodies. A D300 will run you about $500 through eBay, and a D300s about 700-750. A D7000 shouldn't be any less... At least, a few months ago when I was looking into this, they were the same or more.

But if you really want something in the consumer range, go for it.


Already purchased a D7100 :)
 

Horoscope Fish

Senior Member
I'm still really struggling with the whole AF-A/AF-S/AF-C thing. When I was in AF, I was manually moving the box around the viewfinder through all of the 51 points to focus where I wanted. Seemed a little slow like I would miss somthing if im trying to capture a puppy or young kid.
I don't think MOST people fully understand how the AF system works; I know I didn't and the manual was sorely lacking an in-depth explanation. The following article is a tad wordy but is soooo worth reading (as many times as required to fully absorb what it's telling you).

This read totally changed how I work with auto-focus on my D7100: D7000 Auto-focus Explained
 

TaylorGT

Senior Member
Wow, great read. Thanks! That clarified some of my questions. I'm using AF-A now on the Single Point (5). I was using the AF-A on Dynamic 51 but it sounds like that may not be the ideal way to shoot?
 

Horoscope Fish

Senior Member
Wow, great read. Thanks! That clarified some of my questions. I'm using AF-A now on the Single Point (5). I was using the AF-A on Dynamic 51 but it sounds like that may not be the ideal way to shoot?
That really IS a great read, isn't it? It totally changed how I set up my camera.

Yours is sort of an "it depends" question; as in it depends on what you're shooting. As I understand it, the faster and more erratic the subject moves, the larger the array you want to use, in conjunction with say tracking. The larger array gives you more latitude to keep a moving subject somewhere in the frame where the AF can keep tabs on it and keep it in focus. However, if you have a smaller, more stationary subject, you can switch to one of the smaller arrays (say 9 or 11 point) to better pinpoint your focus area. That, to me, seems to be The Main Thing. In short:

  • Fast/erratic subject: Big, wide array for a better chance of keeping the subject within the AF array.
  • Slow moving or still subject: Smaller, more selective array so you can really pin down your focus area.
This being the case I've been using AF-A and Auto (select). Using AF-A seems like a no-brainer to me; it's the number of points that made this tricky for me until I experimented with different settings, which I really suggest you try yourself.

So, speaking for myself... Right now I'm using AF-A and Auto. But at the same time I'm teaching myself to get fast at finding the AF/M button and too hit the command dial to switch quickly to, say AF-A / 9-Point because the Auto (select) seems a bit wonky; sometimes it nails what I want to focus on but just as often it seems to miss the mark wildly. I will probably revert back to using AF-A and 9-Points unless I have need to switch to something else. Knowing I can press a button and spin the command dial makes it easy, though, so that's nice.

For my type of shooting that combo seems to work well (AF-A with 9-Points), but then I shoot pretty sedentary subjects most of the time and don't shoot a lot sports or birds in flight or what have you. I've also gotten pretty good at moving the array around in the viewfinder using the four-way button on the back. The thing to remember in this mode combination, is that even though you only see ONE point moving around in the viewfinder, that's the center point of the chosen array of points (press the AF/M button to see the entire array, remember?). That was kind of a minor "ah ha!" moment for me. I like the control of moving the focus point but with 9-Points I'm moving the whole array around! CHA-CHING!! That just so works for me. But again, that's me and my shooting style. You really need to experiment with the different settings and, just as importantly, get comfortable switching between them.


....
 
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Mako1969

Senior Member
The Nikon D7200 can be bought for about $550-700, it's 24 MP, and has MUCH better low light capability than the D7000, or the others. It also uses EXPEED 4 processing (same as D4s) and has built in Wifi. Nikon D7200 | Low-Light DSLR with Built-in WiFi, NFC & More If you're only getting a couple of lenses, the 35 1.8 (about $200 used) and the 80-200 2.8 with separate zoom and focus rings, and a tripod foot (about $300-400 used) would be excellent to start with. This may be stretching your budget a bit, but there's nothing worse than "saving money" only to find out that you've bought the wrong equipment, when you were only a couple of hundred bucks away from much better gear. Just make sure that you buy from reputable stores with a return policy, and don't be afraid to buy lenses from Japan. I have three lenses that I bought on ebay from Japan, including my 300 2.8 AFS ED VR, and they are all pristine.

Eat only at home for a month or two, stay out of the bars/Starbucks, and get some nicer equipment. You'll be glad that you did!
 
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