ND Filter's
- Thread starter Fortkentdad
- Start date
Thanks J-see that is very interesting.
Just been looking at a set of 3 Hoyas on Amazon. 2, 4 and 8 stops which sounds like it might be a good way to go as I assume they can be used in combination with each other.
You can attach as many as you like but remember you put glass upon glass upon glass and that has consequences.
A couple of days ago I wanted to take a shot but even with the 10 stop I could not get lower than 3 seconds for that specific scene. That's the problem you'll encounter with 4 stops. They're great when that's all you need but when you need more, it's not possible. If you use a ten-stop, you can still shoot the scene the same way as a 4 stop by adjusting your settings (not that those change the incoming light) but if you use a 4 stop and have maxed aperture, ISO or shutter, that's it.
Seriously?!! You couldn't get slower than 3 seconds while using it? Was your ISO set at 100? Your shutter speed must have been around 1/500 second without the filter. You couldn't stop down your lens any further?
Seriously?!! You couldn't get slower than 3 seconds while using it? Was your ISO set at 100? Your shutter speed must have been around 1/500 second without the filter. You couldn't stop down your lens any further?
Short lenses can't be always closed down that much (around f/18 if I remember well) and with ISO at 50 and the lens closed down to the max, I still was only at 3 seconds with a ten-stopper. But it was full daytime and I wanted to shoot the moving clouds in a static scene. That required 30 seconds.
The greater the number of filters, the higher chance you may have problems with lens flare. Not to mention vignetting from stacking the filters one on top of the other. If you go with a 9- or 10-stop ND filter, you can always raise your ISO if you need a faster shutter speed. If you go with a 3-stop, most likely you will encounter some limitations on just how slow you can make your shutter speed. And if the filters are for a wide angle lens, consider a slim profile filter(s). They won't vignette like some of the thicker ones.
Okay. It must have been insanely bright. Good to know.
I just checked. I was shooting the 18-35mm @18 so f/22 must have been my max. I assumed it wouldn't be a problem with the ten-stopped to get to 30s but sadly it wasn't the case that day.
I think I'll order a second ten-stop for this summer because I rather not shoot fully closed down.
Here's an example of the problem you might encounter with a 4-stop.
As you see in the EXIF, I'm already at my max with ISO and with the lens I can only close down another 4 stops which implies I pretty fast hit the limit what the shutter can do without underexposing. I'm using a CP in this shot which already blocks at least 1 stop of light.
If I want long exposures during these situations, 4 stops only gets me that far.
As you see in the EXIF, I'm already at my max with ISO and with the lens I can only close down another 4 stops which implies I pretty fast hit the limit what the shutter can do without underexposing. I'm using a CP in this shot which already blocks at least 1 stop of light.
If I want long exposures during these situations, 4 stops only gets me that far.
Today I wanted to use the ND but was too lazy to first remove the CP filter. I wanted to bin the shot but it's a good example to show what happens when you put filter upon filter. On a wide these problems start fast.
Also, this is 11/12 stops of light less and it's not that I have that much room to toy with my settings. Exposed at ISO 100, I'd require f/2.8 at 1/30s for this shot so I'd have needed a five or six stopper if I'd closed the lens down to f/22 to reach 1/30s.
Also, this is 11/12 stops of light less and it's not that I have that much room to toy with my settings. Exposed at ISO 100, I'd require f/2.8 at 1/30s for this shot so I'd have needed a five or six stopper if I'd closed the lens down to f/22 to reach 1/30s.
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RocketCowboy
Senior Member
[MENTION=31330]J-see[/MENTION] ... why is your exposure compensation set to +2.0/1.67 for the last two shots, respectively?
Also noticed these shots are pretty wide open (makes sense on the most recent one with a 30 sec shutter speed), but wouldn't stopping down the aperture in post #31 have also helped extend your shutter speed?
Also noticed these shots are pretty wide open (makes sense on the most recent one with a 30 sec shutter speed), but wouldn't stopping down the aperture in post #31 have also helped extend your shutter speed?
I was highlight metering. When, I usually have to go one to two stops up to push the histo to the right. When I have brighter skies or large bright parts in the shot, I usually switch to highlight metering since I can control the clipping better.
This is just a shot taken to check the result since what I see on my live is too dark to know what goes on. It's like my night shots, I have to shoot one to check everything. The other shot was just an example to show that an ND 4 stops would be limited in how low the shutter can be. Even aperture wouldn't save me since I have only four stops left with that lens.
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Whiskeyman
Senior Member
You can also get larger sized filters and use step-up rings to fit them on a smaller lens. While stacking these won't eliminate flare and ghosting from stacked filters, it can help prevent vignetting.
Even though the larger filters are more expensive, you have a set of filters that will work on many different lenses. All you need to make it happen is is the proper set of step-up rings.
WM
Whiskeyman
Senior Member
So true, and it's also too expensive to buy cheap (lousy) filters in any size. I always try to purchase the best glass that I can. Which ones are you using?
WM
I normally only buy B+W. They have pretty decent material. I've seen CP filters on sale here for not even 20$. I think if you spit on your lens, you'll get about the same quality as those.
I paid 100$ something for their 77 10-stopper. I also have a CP of theirs but it's their cheaper one for the 77mm. They had that one in the store and I wanted to test it before investing money in a good one. Even when they advise thinner ones for wides, I must say I don't suffer any issue on my 18-35mm even when using the widest part. The only thing I need to pay attention to is how I turn it when I have large skies, else it can create a color difference. I decided to keep it instead of paying the price of a lens for the best CPs.
I have another B+W of them for my 50/35mm which I bought in the past and some of their close-ups and this far, none of their material disappointed me. I have some more of their stuff in the pipe-line including a metal lens hood for the Tamron. If that one works out well, I might replace all my plastic crap by either metal or rubber hoods.
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