donaldjledet
Senior Member
Kodiak, I don't want to keep you up. i know its late over there in Europe.
Moon shot
- Thread starter donaldjledet
- Start date
donaldjledet
Senior Member
So for this type of photos I should have a full frame?
So with the Moon and Mars coming up close together I should use a full frame for that?
donaldjledet
Senior Member
Oh O.K. Thanks,
Get some sleep my friend.
Get some sleep my friend.
donaldjledet
Senior Member
Don't forget next month in august the Moon and Mars will be close together.
They say it will be another 600 years or so. before they get this close together again.
So take some great shots of it, or have your boys do it for a project?
They say it will be another 600 years or so. before they get this close together again.
So take some great shots of it, or have your boys do it for a project?
So this is an RGB with 8 bits/channel so what is your Picture Control set at? It should be at neutral. Also your jpeg compression should be set for best quality. Are you shooting jpegs originally or NEF and then converting to jpeg? JPEG compression artifacts can look like that because the LUT is being reduced and the color/grey levels are being "squashed" which exaggerates differences in brightness, hence the halo.
•
… I never received the un-cropped version of that moon!
FOR THE READERS:
Hi everyone,
I needed the un-cropped version of that moon to confirm my suspicions that the
metering mode was unwisely chosen!
• The matrix metering is cool when you want to measure a whole scene and get the
••best readout for it, such as landscapes and others.
• To shoot the whole moon at centred full frame, since it is round and doesn't fill the
••entire frame, ponderate central would be a more desirable option.
• If the moon is filling less then two thirds of the height of the frame and is not in
••the centre of it, then "spot metering" is the right option:
••••••••In any case, the metered zone should contain no black sky!
If there are two celestial objects, spot measure both, and average using the shutter
speed if you are on M mode, or the EV +/- compensation value selector if you are
on A mode. This is going to be a tricky one since Mars will not be as bright as the
Moon. The safest option would be HDR. Two shots, two exposures, and the final stack!
Since Mars is way over beyond the Moon, focus is set at ∞ on the Moon.
I hope this is understandable because the next time around for this astronomical event
will be in 600 years…
Have a good time!
… I never received the un-cropped version of that moon!
FOR THE READERS:
Hi everyone,
I needed the un-cropped version of that moon to confirm my suspicions that the
metering mode was unwisely chosen!
• The matrix metering is cool when you want to measure a whole scene and get the
••best readout for it, such as landscapes and others.
• To shoot the whole moon at centred full frame, since it is round and doesn't fill the
••entire frame, ponderate central would be a more desirable option.
• If the moon is filling less then two thirds of the height of the frame and is not in
••the centre of it, then "spot metering" is the right option:
On the tripod with your frame set, take the red AF/AE reader over the moon,
and test it using the shutter speed if you are on M mode, or the EV +/- com-
pensation value selector if you are on A mode.
and test it using the shutter speed if you are on M mode, or the EV +/- com-
pensation value selector if you are on A mode.
••••••••In any case, the metered zone should contain no black sky!
If there are two celestial objects, spot measure both, and average using the shutter
speed if you are on M mode, or the EV +/- compensation value selector if you are
on A mode. This is going to be a tricky one since Mars will not be as bright as the
Moon. The safest option would be HDR. Two shots, two exposures, and the final stack!
Since Mars is way over beyond the Moon, focus is set at ∞ on the Moon.
I hope this is understandable because the next time around for this astronomical event
will be in 600 years…
Have a good time!
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I think this is the one I eliminated the jpeg noise from the background.
D3100. 300mm, 1/60th sec, f/14, ISO 100.
PS. Should have said this was shot in NEF and artefacts only appeared later when converted to jpeg.
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donaldjledet
Senior Member
No i just check picture control was set at Vivid,jpeg was set atOptimal quality. I shoot at jpeg.
WhiteLight
Senior Member
Try lowering the white balance a tad towards the blue side..
I suspect it'll look much better
Found that converting to greyscale, while increasing luminosity and contrast gave good results.
As to the OP, since he won't have much time to practice, I would say "keep the ISO low, speed low and aperture as small as you can get it". If the photo is dark, you can lighten it but if you bleach out all the detail by over-exposing then you can do nothing later.
PS; I must say, though, it is nice to have a bit of colour in the photo.
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