I know what you mean,by the time i have my reading glasses on the subject has gone.
is this normal?
- Thread starter oldguyrich
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I know what you mean,by the time i have my reading glasses on the subject has gone.
oldguyrich
Senior Member
ok. I am gonna try that now. thanks
Horoscope Fish
Senior Member
In looking at your shot in Photoshop, the +1EV you applied with the Exposure Compensation setting is having a bigger impact than I suspected. I think that, combined with the bump in Clarity applied in the Camera Profiles, really did a number on the Highlights in this shot. I'd suggest you move move Clarity slider back to zero and reset your Exposure Compensation, if you haven't already.
Don Kuykendall_RIP
RIP :(
After having someone local show and explain how to use the histogram and how important it is when shooting I have been using it ever since. My shooting percentage and IQ (image Quality) have improved a lot. Just make sure you are not clipping the black or whites and especially on the blacks just leave a little room on the left.
This should help some.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explor...106232511053&gclid=CPncxfrkmtUCFVI8gQoddEMAFg
oldguyrich
Senior Member
Do you shoot, look at histogram, adjust if needed, shoot, look again, etc? on every shot? if i were shooting at 1/500th ( to capture movement), iso 200, f/8 ( to maintain depth of field)- and the histogram shows too dark, which element would you commonly change first? and why that choice? thanks.
Don Kuykendall_RIP
RIP :(
Generally I shoot in the same area for a while. I will check the first shot and adjust as needed what I adjust depends on what I am shooting every area is different so there is no stock answer.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Horoscope Fish
Senior Member
Speaking for myself, while I keep an eye on my histograms to make sure I'm not blowing out my highlights, or crushing my shadows, too much I don't feel the need to check it on every shot. But if you're still working on getting exposure down, check them as often as you need too. I harp on Histograms a LOT because they're an amazingly powerful tool.
One of my favorite tutorials on this is over on Photography Life: Understanding Histograms in Photography
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I shoot in Manual mode and enable Auto-ISO and here's why. Aperture and Shutter speed control not only two parts of the exposure triangle, they also control two very important aesthetic aspects: Aperture controls the depth-of-field and shutter-speed controls either stopping, or creating, motion blur. ISO on the other hand, for me, is far less important because it has little or no aesthetic affect on my shot. Oh sure, at some point digital noise becomes an issue but that I can deal with quite handily during post-processing. Depth-of-field and motion blur I can't. So, that being the case, I want rapid, easy control over Aperture and Shutter Speed so I can rapidly and easily control what's important to me.
The answer to your question primarily depends on what's being shot and what you want to get out of the shot. Good photography is ALWAYS a juggling act of Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO. You have to determine, in your mind, how you want the shot to look, and then you balance the different tools of exposure and composition to get that particular shot. Maybe I see the shot is a little underexposed but it has the DoF and amount of motion blur that I want. Can I fix the exposure during post? If I think I can, I get on with shooting. If I don't think I can, I'll have to juggle DoF, motion blur to arrive at a compromise I can live with. There is no single right answer to any particular shot and the juggling act will never, ever go away; it just gets easier and then it becomes second nature.
oldguyrich
Senior Member
Ok so i spent the week shooting while watching the histogram. I came to this conclusion. If the image I am taking takes up most of screen. then the histogram is useful. However, if the part of the image I will be using takes a small section- the histogram does me no good at all. A bird in the shade , in a tree, surrounded by bright backlit sky, will produce a histogram to the right. but lacking all details inn the bird. Because MOST of the photo will be exposed correctly. Just not the important to me stuff,.. And lots of you questioned my use if Eov of +1, when it is based right out of books on photography.. as a method of increasing light in photo without sacrificing DOF, or Shutterspeed......
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I find for a high percentage of my wildlife images correct histogram displays give me the wrong exposure on the main subject,thats why i avoid histogram topics.
Horoscope Fish
Senior Member
The histogram graphically reflects the tonal range of my shot and provides me the same type and degree of information regardless of how it's shaped. Even what appears to be a lack of information in the histogram is useful information. I agree the histogram is not necessarily good for evaluating exposure as I (or you or anyone else) wants it in any particular shot since "correct" exposure is entirely up to the photographer. "Correct" exposure for a polar bear in a snowbank is going to be very different than the "correct" exposure of a nighttime shot of a city skyline and the histograms will look very different for those two scenes. But it's not the job of the histogram to tell me what exposure is "correct"; the job of the histogram is to show me the amount of tones of various brightness levels in a particular image and too help determine if I have highlight-clipping or loss of shadow detail at specific exposure settings. I find that helpful information. Further, I can examine histograms for individual color-channels for that same information. If my histogram shows I'm consistently blowing out the highlights in, say for instance, the Red color-channel while I'm doing a shoot, I would find that helpful information as well.