HDR with D3200?
- Thread starter dr_eyehead
- Start date
dr_eyehead
Banned
Is it faster? I just use the scroll wheel when I am doing it, although I am getting confused by the different modes the camera works in, so it's not just that. I find I have to press the shutter release button halfway once and then adjust the exposure, then click on the remote with my left hand.
What do I need to calculate when I am doing this? It's all guess work isn't it, with some experience hopefully in the end.
What do I need to calculate when I am doing this? It's all guess work isn't it, with some experience hopefully in the end.
dr_eyehead
Banned
How does exposure compensation work then, is it processing the camera does after or does the camera adjust the actual exposure while taking the shot?
dr_eyehead
Banned
Good to know, cheers. Not really sure what the point of being able to adjust the exposure this way is really, I suppose it's just a little bit faster and works in increments of 1/2 or 2 making it easier to judge.
PaulPosition
Senior Member
Just to be more precise, EV compensation will change the shutter speed when you're in (A)aperture Priority mode (which you'd want to be, if not full manual, so that the depth of field doesn't change in between shots, which would happen if you were in Shutter priority). In full manual you would have to "calculate" because there's a lot of intermediary values for shutter speed, so out might be 6 clicks one way to expose at -1.7 and, say, 8 clicks the other way for +1.7... it's just easier doing it in A mode.
(Do make sure you're not on auto-ISO, too...)
(Do make sure you're not on auto-ISO, too...)
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dr_eyehead
Banned
How do I quickly change the exp compensation with the camera? Can see the buttons for aperture and fn is set to iso. I tried to change fn to exposure comp but it wouldn't let me.
PaulPosition
Senior Member
On the top, near shutter button, it's the one with -/+ on it (it's also colored half dark (-) and half light (+)). You press it and then turn the command dial and you'll get feedback both in viewfinder and LCD screen.
dr_eyehead
Banned
In M mode that button only changes the aperture. In aperture mode though it adjusts the EV. So should I be working in aperture mode then for this?
PaulPosition
Senior Member
That's my suggestion and that of at least two other people above, yes.
dr_eyehead
Banned
Just looked up the formula for EV = log 2 (N^2/t) where N= f-number and t=exposure.
The thing is though, this doesn't tally up with the EV reading on my camera when in A mode. If I increase the EV by one then the exposure increases by approximately 2, but the value the camera detects depends on the light (while EV remains constant).
What am I missing here?
The thing is though, this doesn't tally up with the EV reading on my camera when in A mode. If I increase the EV by one then the exposure increases by approximately 2, but the value the camera detects depends on the light (while EV remains constant).
What am I missing here?
I am always learning some thing new in this forum.
After reading this post, I tried the +/- with the wheel. Pressing the +/- selects the exposure compensation option. Each click changes the EV by a fixed amount. So as not to be confused while exposing, I set it to the maximum negative value that I want (-3EV). Then kept exposing and changing the EV monotonically. Worked perfectly.
The D3300 has the range of +-5EV with 1/3EV step, that means 30 steps if the full range is used. With the DR of this (and D3200) sensor, there is no need for 1/3EV step. One can skip 3 to 6 steps for 1EV or 2EV steps instead of 1/3 EV steps.
After reading this post, I tried the +/- with the wheel. Pressing the +/- selects the exposure compensation option. Each click changes the EV by a fixed amount. So as not to be confused while exposing, I set it to the maximum negative value that I want (-3EV). Then kept exposing and changing the EV monotonically. Worked perfectly.
The D3300 has the range of +-5EV with 1/3EV step, that means 30 steps if the full range is used. With the DR of this (and D3200) sensor, there is no need for 1/3EV step. One can skip 3 to 6 steps for 1EV or 2EV steps instead of 1/3 EV steps.
Here is HDR as processed with Photomatix (I installed it today)
Input Files
HDR
This is one case where the D3300 DR was of no help. The exposure range is about 8EV, and the displayed DR about 8EV (displayed), so the HDR was for about 16EV, while the sensor is 12.8EV. If I wanted to brighten the room up; as is needed for good interior images; an additional DR of 3-4EV is needed, making the range 20EV.
Input Files
HDR
This is one case where the D3300 DR was of no help. The exposure range is about 8EV, and the displayed DR about 8EV (displayed), so the HDR was for about 16EV, while the sensor is 12.8EV. If I wanted to brighten the room up; as is needed for good interior images; an additional DR of 3-4EV is needed, making the range 20EV.
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Tried in camera HDR.
. It uses only two exposures, so really high DR will not be feasible
. The output is jpeg, it does not even save the RAW for future
Though it does give reasonable image, it is fine when you want a quick fix, but comes no where near what you get with software on the computer. In short it is a feature more in tune with the P&S philosophy than with serious photography. Bracketing is infinitely more useful.
The trees are in shade
. It uses only two exposures, so really high DR will not be feasible
. The output is jpeg, it does not even save the RAW for future
Though it does give reasonable image, it is fine when you want a quick fix, but comes no where near what you get with software on the computer. In short it is a feature more in tune with the P&S philosophy than with serious photography. Bracketing is infinitely more useful.
The trees are in shade