Godex SK400 Scale

Lautermilch

Senior Member
I have two Godex SK400s in a home studio. I keep them at 4 and 8 o'clock and like the results such as:

Anyway, I see the slight increments on some numbers on the power settings but can't find any documentation online. Anyone know of a web page or PDF that would better explain?
 

Fred Kingston

Senior Member
That was my point. Those are probably ALL the videos there are for that light. One video specific to the "power settings" for that light probably doesn't exist... which means you'll probably have to dig into understanding what the manual says... Without looking at what the manual says, I'm guessing the power settings are pretty universal with how the power settings work on all strobe lights... Here's a video that describes adjusting the power settings and the reasons why...
 

Lautermilch

Senior Member
This person is showing the strobe and it has two scales or at least the newer model. This is near what I am wanting to know. I have the fractions like the strobe on the left as he is talking.
 

Fred Kingston

Senior Member
Strobes are adjusted in power increments. 1.0 to 6.0 representing 6 stops or 1/1 (full power) to 1/32 power. It does not match your camera f-stop setting of f 1, 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, 32, 45, 64.
 

Lautermilch

Senior Member
Ok, we are on the same page.
My question is the power settings on the strobe.:
let's take the 1/4 range. I know that is one quarter full power. But I also get as I turn the dial:
1/4 =0.3
1/4 +0.7
1/4
1/8 +0.3
1/8
1/16 +0.7
1/16 +.03
1/16 is the weakest setting on the strobe

The question I had is why have these tiny adjustments as if it is less than 1% of the current output it would not be much of a difference.
 

Fred Kingston

Senior Member
If you dig into those power numbers, the biggest differences aren't related to how much light is output, but rather, the duration of the light... Most folks, in a studio situation find it easier to lock down exposure settings... ISO, speed and aperture, as well as the light's settings... and then incrementally, physically, move the light either closer or further from the subject... At full power, the light's duration is at its slowest... and at its lowest power setting, the duration is at its fastest... You don't need a large range of light-out because you can move the light closer or farther away... However, if you're doing high-speed syncing, you want that range reflected in light duration... An example would be a setup with dripping water... At full power, the duration might cause motion blur or might not be fast enough to freeze drops of water falling, whereas a lower power setting will be at the light's fastest duration and freeze the drops of water... This all relates back to the laws of reciprocity within the design constraints of how strobe/flash lights work... You're trying to lock in all the exposure settings, but changing the light's power setting affects the duration of light...
 
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