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Focus Ring Stops vs Continuous
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<blockquote data-quote="BF Hammer" data-source="post: 810501" data-attributes="member: 48483"><p>I could show-off here using a lens not currently available to you and say it's easy, just yadda yadda yadda.</p><p></p><p>But I'll instead show what is possible using lesser gear. Last year I thought I would try out my infrared converted D600 (16MP sensor) with a very old 500mm Nikon reflex lens. Late 1970's vintage I presume and it is quite fuzzy today. Not what we consider sharp at all. I added an old 2x teleconverter just because this is the one lens I have that does not autofocus or meter and the teleconverter is a dumb type with no AI pins. So I am shooting 1000mm on a full frame body. But the teleconverter also reduced the f/8 down to f/11.</p><p></p><p>I did the trick of pre-focusing on a star by making it appear as small as I could. Moon is underexposed, and yes I shot at 1/200 which is too slow. But I also was using a star-tracker mount so I hoped for an assist there. I also took 20 photos with the intention to stack them. Here is the last single image of the run.[ATTACH=full]396066[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>And using SIRIL for my stacking of the images, I did further adjustments as an exported TIF file with RawTherapee and GIMP. What I will point out is that the ISO noise does average out with this technique, the more the photos the higher the ISO you can use. And the effective resolution goes off the scale as each image is slightly shifted around in the pixel pattern of your sensor. Really 60 to 120 images are good for making a moon photo. The software does the work of aligning so the moon shifting around in the frame is not a problem.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]396067[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>And if I had taken 60 photos, I am sure it would have been even better. It was February and I think I had battery issues in the cold.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BF Hammer, post: 810501, member: 48483"] I could show-off here using a lens not currently available to you and say it's easy, just yadda yadda yadda. But I'll instead show what is possible using lesser gear. Last year I thought I would try out my infrared converted D600 (16MP sensor) with a very old 500mm Nikon reflex lens. Late 1970's vintage I presume and it is quite fuzzy today. Not what we consider sharp at all. I added an old 2x teleconverter just because this is the one lens I have that does not autofocus or meter and the teleconverter is a dumb type with no AI pins. So I am shooting 1000mm on a full frame body. But the teleconverter also reduced the f/8 down to f/11. I did the trick of pre-focusing on a star by making it appear as small as I could. Moon is underexposed, and yes I shot at 1/200 which is too slow. But I also was using a star-tracker mount so I hoped for an assist there. I also took 20 photos with the intention to stack them. Here is the last single image of the run.[ATTACH type="full"]396066[/ATTACH] And using SIRIL for my stacking of the images, I did further adjustments as an exported TIF file with RawTherapee and GIMP. What I will point out is that the ISO noise does average out with this technique, the more the photos the higher the ISO you can use. And the effective resolution goes off the scale as each image is slightly shifted around in the pixel pattern of your sensor. Really 60 to 120 images are good for making a moon photo. The software does the work of aligning so the moon shifting around in the frame is not a problem. [ATTACH type="full"]396067[/ATTACH] And if I had taken 60 photos, I am sure it would have been even better. It was February and I think I had battery issues in the cold. [/QUOTE]
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Focus Ring Stops vs Continuous
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