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Focus Ring Stops vs Continuous
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<blockquote data-quote="BF Hammer" data-source="post: 810459" data-attributes="member: 48483"><p>Zoomed in to 300mm, the earth is rotating pretty fast, plenty fast enough to to blur the moon. Consider 1/500 or 1/800 to be the shutter speed to use. F/8 would be fine for the aperture, so use the ISO to dial in exposure if you can't move the f-stop lower.</p><p></p><p>Clovis touches on it, but being overexposed on a full moon is very easy to do. Bring down that exposure and consider dialing it up in post. You cannot bring back detail that is blown-out in white. Also take note that those craters show much better if there is shadow. There is barely any shadow to see in a full moon. Get out in a partial phase and those shadows start to jump out near the terminator line.</p><p></p><p>I think this would be your lens, but there is no lab test or review done. So I cannot comment further on optical properties. <a href="https://www.imaging-resource.com/lenses/nikon/70-300mm-f4.5-6.3g-ed-dx-vr-af-p-nikkor/review/" target="_blank">https://www.imaging-resource.com/lenses/nikon/70-300mm-f4.5-6.3g-ed-dx-vr-af-p-nikkor/review/</a></p><p></p><p>And I know that the moon is a pretty easy astrophotography target. It really is how I dipped my toes into the subject. But it also has it's challenges that you need to learn to overcome. It's the same sort of solutions to apply to photographing nebulas or even planets. You can take 60 photos of the moon and stack them with freeware autostacking software. It works to blend out the sensor noise and give a virtual boost in pixel-density for the details. Under exposing with a fast shutter is the ideal way to do this stacking.</p><p></p><p>ps: On tripod, do <u>not</u> forget to turn off the VR of the lens. That blurs things also since VR is for handholding.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BF Hammer, post: 810459, member: 48483"] Zoomed in to 300mm, the earth is rotating pretty fast, plenty fast enough to to blur the moon. Consider 1/500 or 1/800 to be the shutter speed to use. F/8 would be fine for the aperture, so use the ISO to dial in exposure if you can't move the f-stop lower. Clovis touches on it, but being overexposed on a full moon is very easy to do. Bring down that exposure and consider dialing it up in post. You cannot bring back detail that is blown-out in white. Also take note that those craters show much better if there is shadow. There is barely any shadow to see in a full moon. Get out in a partial phase and those shadows start to jump out near the terminator line. I think this would be your lens, but there is no lab test or review done. So I cannot comment further on optical properties. [URL]https://www.imaging-resource.com/lenses/nikon/70-300mm-f4.5-6.3g-ed-dx-vr-af-p-nikkor/review/[/URL] And I know that the moon is a pretty easy astrophotography target. It really is how I dipped my toes into the subject. But it also has it's challenges that you need to learn to overcome. It's the same sort of solutions to apply to photographing nebulas or even planets. You can take 60 photos of the moon and stack them with freeware autostacking software. It works to blend out the sensor noise and give a virtual boost in pixel-density for the details. Under exposing with a fast shutter is the ideal way to do this stacking. ps: On tripod, do [U]not[/U] forget to turn off the VR of the lens. That blurs things also since VR is for handholding. [/QUOTE]
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