Flash Brackets

[hark]

I still use a Stroboframe bracket from my 35mm days when using off-camera flash. It positions the flash above the camera which creates shadows under the chin--certainly not desirable so I'm considering getting a new flash bracket. There are times when I can't bounce the flash because either the ceiling is way too high or the walls too far away for bouncing. I'm not able to hold the camera with one hand while holding the flash with the other so I need a bracket.

What suggestions do you have, and what do you like/dislike about the model you suggest? Thanks for any ideas!

 

[carguy]

None off hand, but you'd want to get the flash off the axis of the lens as well.

 

[WayneF]

I still use a Stroboframe bracket from my 35mm days when using off-camera flash. It positions the flash above the camera which creates shadows under the chin--certainly not desirable so I'm considering getting a new flash bracket. There are times when I can't bounce the flash because either the ceiling is way too high or the walls too far away for bouncing. I'm not able to hold the camera with one hand while holding the flash with the other so I need a bracket.

What suggestions do you have, and what do you like/dislike about the model you suggest? Thanks for any ideas!

Keeping the flash ABOVE the lens is the purpose of a flash bracket. The shadows under the subject are more natural (like the Sun, the room lights, etc). And above the lens hides most shadows BEHIND the subject. Otherwise, when the camera is up on end with the flash to the side of the lens, those wall shadows become extremely obnoxious.

I have the old Stoboframe 350, and it is a bit clunky to handle, but it does the job, and no more than I use it, the price is extremely agreeable ($20).

 

[hark]

None off hand, but you'd want to get the flash off the axis of the lens as well.

Yes, that is one of my concerns with this bracket.

Keeping the flash ABOVE the lens is the purpose of a flash bracket. The shadows under the subject are more natural (like the Sun, the room lights, etc). And above the lens hides most shadows BEHIND the subject. Otherwise, when the camera is up on end with the flash to the side of the lens, those wall shadows become extremely obnoxious.

I have the old Stoboframe 350, and it is a bit clunky to handle, but it does the job, and no more than I use it, the price is extremely agreeable ($20).

I need to check my model, but it might very well be the 350. Some brackets are made with the flash sitting off to one side and perhaps slightly above which I might be interested in. One problem I've noticed is people with hair not quite shoulder length can get shadows behind and below the hair if there is a wall close behind--that would be in those situations where I can't bounce the flash.

So is there some type of flash diffuser that might work for the SB-910? If something like that is available, perhaps it would help alleviate some of the dark shadows while using this Stroboframe bracket.

 

[WayneF]

I need to check my model, but it might very well be the 350. Some brackets are made with the flash sitting off to one side and perhaps slightly above which I might be interested in. One problem I've noticed is people with hair not quite shoulder length can get shadows behind and below the hair if there is a wall close behind--that would be in those situations where I can't bounce the flash.

The flash head is a few inches from the center of the lens, and cannot be directly on lens axis, so there will always be some shadow. But if close to lens, then directly above it is the best place. Then the shadow is mostly hidden, directly behind the subject. Yes, there can be a shadow below the subject (hair, or arms, etc), but that's much less obnoxious than one at their side when camera is in portrait orientation. The purpose of the bracket is to keep the flash directly above the lens in either orientation. Having the subject stand a bit farther from the wall will help a little.

Off-camera flash is another subject, and is a strong plus, but at minimum, it needs to be high out at full arms length (on a hot shoe cord). Just a few inches away from lens on a bracket is flat light, and is only enough to cause the problems (unless directly above the lens). But the greater distance is better lighting (adds tonal gradients, not flat), and makes handling the shadow easier, but some shadow attention is always required (needs greater distance to wall, or further off axis, both of which places the shadow off the edge of the frame, etc).

So is there some type of flash diffuser that might work for the SB-910? If something like that is available, perhaps it would help alleviate some of the dark shadows while using this Stroboframe bracket.

Not your meaning, but to me, that sounds like either bounce, or an umbrella for the flash (instead of the bracket). Have you ever tried an umbrella? It's like magic.

A little diffuser on the flash cannot help at all. Because it is still only a couple inches of size, and still makes dark sharp shadows. Diffusers just spread the light, and all a tiny spreader can do is to spread it outward, to miss the subject entirely. But a 40 inch umbrella is large, and the outer edges on either side can spread the light inward to hit the subject. One ray path fills the other ray paths shadows. Then you really have something. The answer is a large light.

See some samples (direct, diffuser, bounce, umbrella):

Creating Soft Light from the Flash and the next page too.

 

[hark]

The flash head is a few inches from the center of the lens, and cannot be directly on lens axis, so there will always be some shadow. But if close to lens, then directly above it is the best place. Then the shadow is mostly hidden, directly behind the subject. Yes, there can be a shadow below the subject (hair, or arms, etc), but that's much less obnoxious than one at their side when camera is in portrait orientation. The purpose of the bracket is to keep the flash directly above the lens in either orientation. Having the subject stand a bit farther from the wall will help a little.

Off-camera flash is another subject, and is a strong plus, but at minimum, it needs to be high out at full arms length (on a hot shoe cord). Just a few inches away from lens on a bracket is flat light, and is only enough to cause the problems (unless directly above the lens). But the greater distance is better lighting (adds tonal gradients, not flat), and makes handling the shadow easier, but some shadow attention is always required (needs greater distance to wall, or further off axis, both of which places the shadow off the edge of the frame, etc).



Not your meaning, but to me, that sounds like either bounce, or an umbrella for the flash (instead of the bracket). Have you ever tried an umbrella? It's like magic.

A little diffuser on the flash cannot help at all. Because it is still only a couple inches of size, and still makes dark sharp shadows. Diffusers just spread the light, and all a tiny spreader can do is to spread it outward, to miss the subject entirely. But a 40 inch umbrella is large, and the outer edges on either side can spread the light inward to hit the subject. One ray path fills the other ray paths shadows. Then you really have something. The answer is a large light.

See some samples (direct, diffuser, bounce, umbrella):

Creating Soft Light from the Flash and the next page too.

Thanks kindly for this info, Wayne. I'm heading for bed shortly but will look into what you wrote and the link tomorrow!