Fast Action Settings for D850

New here. Did not find what I was looking for, so I either missed it or it may not be here.

I am going down to Sebring in March for the 12 Hours of Sebring race. I need help setting up my camera for fast action photos. Think race cars going around the track and then switching to paddock and vendor booth shots. I have had my 850 for a couple of weeks, still navigating around. I am coming from a D3400 (don’t laugh). I can get really great moving shots with it, but it just lacks a bit in details and started to show its age.

How do I set this up? What tips and tricks are there to get this thing ready for March?
 

BF Hammer

Senior Member
Hey, welcome aboard!

No laughing, if you have settings that work well with your D3400, that should make a good starting point with the D850. But there will be some translation due to moving from the cropped sensor to the full-frame sensor. It would help to know which lenses you used with the D3400 and what you will use with the D850. In general, the longer focal lengths will need faster shutter speeds because the motion blur becomes magnified as you zoom in. That also goes for motion blur from handling the camera.
 

Clovishound

Senior Member
No need to apologize for the D3400. I have one as a backup camera in my bag. I've done almost no automotive photography, and what little I did was static. Anything that will give you fast shutter speeds without going too far with ISO. For birds in flight, I use Manual with auto ISO. I typically use 1500 - 2500 shutter speed, depending on the size of the bird, and F5.6 which is my max aperture with my long lens. I keep an eye on my ISO to make sure it doesn't go too high. You can fix a noisy, high ISO image (to a point) in editing, but you can't fix a blurry image from too slow a shutter speed. You will likely have to experiment to find the right shutter speed. It will depend on whether you are panning with the cars, or shooting static. You may want to keep it in mechanical shutter to avoid rolling shutter. I believe the D850 suffers from that as do most cameras with an electronic shutter.

I would recommend practicing with some traffic shots. This will give you an idea of what will work for you. Perhaps someone else with experience at this will give you some specific settings that work for them.
 

Dawg Pics

Senior Member
I can't help you with the settings, but this guy sure can. Steve Perry Backcountry Gallery

I hope this isn't too confusing. It does relate to setting up your 'action' settings. The D850 has all of the memory banks, which can be overwhelming.

You can set-up a Photo Menu and a Custom Settings Menu memory bank for "Action Shots" and have the settings there when you need to use them. Most people, who are used to the U1 and U2 memories on the dial of their cameras will tell you the A, B, C, D internal memory banks are 'useless' because if you alter any setting, it stays changed, but the U1 and U2 locks the settings until you tell it otherwise. If you change things like shutter speed, it will be temporary. The U-bank will recall the original setting.

However, on the D850, there is a setting in the camera called "Extended Photo Menu Banks." This will save at least some settings similar to the U-Memories. There is a list of settings this will apply to. How this works: Start with the "Extended Photo Menu Bank" OFF. (Add this to My Menu for easy access). Say your shutter and aperture are set at, 1/6000 at f8, and whatever other settings that this option will apply to). When you start your shoot, turn ON "Extended Photo Menu Banks." So, if you change the shutter or f-stop, it will be temporary. At the end of your shoot. Turn it OFF, and the camera will reset to 1/6000 at f8. It is a bit more work than the U-banks, but if you are a stickler to have a certain setting every time you turn on your camera, this will help you. It won't apply to every setting, like EV, and it obviously isn't a perfect way to save settings.

Speaking of EV, there is an internal setting nobody ever talks about, Fine Tune Optimum Exposure. So, if you find when you use spot meter, the camera tends to under or over expose a little bit, you can tweak that in the Fine Tune Optimum Exposure menu. It is saved internally, that way, you don't have to mess with the EV on top of your camera every time you spot meter (since you can't save it using the non-existent U-setting) You can do this with all 4 metering modes in each memory bank.

If you are doing something specific, like action shots, it is unlikely that you will be going into the internal settings and changing things while you are shooting. You will likely only be changing things you can reach on the camera body. My D300 was purchased from a pro photographer who had all 4 banks set-up: Sports, day time portraits or something like that, night and "jpeg point and shoot." It was very helpful. Since you are learning your camera, you can set up a memory bank with some settings you are experimenting with and not change all of the settings for your Action Banks.

My D500 has night and a focus trap. When I go out to shoot stars, I don't have to go and change a bunch of settings, and I keep "My Menu" programmed to the Fn2 button with the menu items I might want to change or use within easy reach, for example: exposure delay and virtual horizon. I was playing around with the idea of using a focus trap. I don't want to try to figure out how to set that up every time, so I set up a memory bank for it.

If you ever need to send the camera in for repair or need to reset to defaults, you can save all of the settings to your card prior to wiping the camera or you can just save the settings in case you accidentally change something.

10,000 contrarians will follow this saying the banks are awkward, stoopid and useless. You may find yourself in that camp. 🙂

Sorry, this is what happens when I have insomnia. Anyway, just wanted to let you know that the banks are useful. Give it a shot for your Action settings. Good luck, have fun,
 
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