Exposure Issue on my Nikon D600

[StephanAlberts]

Check if the small lever on the lense mount; which changes the aperture; is functioning. All but the very old lenses have these lever. It is meant to move the aperture blades to the value set by the aperture ring.

What I think is happening in your case is that the camera thinks that the lense is fully open (say F1.4) while you have set it at f8. That is why it is reporting the wrong values. To test if that is so
. Test if the lever for setting the aperture is working. Set the aperture to say f22. Now look through the lense and see if the aperture is fully open. If not then there is some thing stuck. If yes, then moving the lever will close the aperture to the value set on the lense.

I can see how you can think of it this way, but like I said before, the levers at the back of both my lenses don't move and I don't think they're meant to.

Thanks for all the responses so far but I don't see the problem with the lens to be honest. The aperture opens nicely all the way from F1.4 to F22, and it displays the correct reading on the camera in relation to what I've set on the lens. From what I can see it's like the camera chooses the wrong exposures everytime, at each F-stop, gradually getting worse towards F22.

Again, this never happened in the past and only lately started doing this. I've gone through all the settings I can think of, and even tried to reset everything to default.

Does anyone else have experience using Manual lenses with de-clicked aperture (Cine lenses)?

 

[Scott Murray]

Hi,

I am having a very strange problem with exposures on my Nikon D600 and I will try my best to explain. I am sort of a newbie in the DSLR world....

I have only used Manual focus lenses on this camera, 2 cine lenses from Rokinon (14mm & 35mm). It's been a steep learning curve as haven't actually used an autofocus lens yet. I mostly shoot in Aperture Priority mode, only adjusting the Aperture ring on the lens and setting ISO and WB. I am usually happy with the results. Sometimes I switch to Manual Mode and I use the exposure meter in the viewfinder to find the correct exposure, then tweak it a bit if I want more.

But lately it's all gone wrong.

In Aperture Priority, with ISO 100 and WB Auto, I set the aperture at F1.4, the shutter speed is set at 1/50s and it underexposes my photos. Turning the aperture all the way to F22, it sets the shutter speed for very long (10 secs!) and obviously completely whites out my image.
In Manual Mode with the same values, with the aperture set at F1.4, I follow the exposure meter in the viewfinder which guides me to the same shutter speed settings i.e. F1.4 - 1/50s and F22- 10s

As a result I have to do a lot more trial and error before I get the right image.
It does this on both lenses and it baffles me... Am I doing something wrong or is there a problem with my camera?

Have you tried any other lenses?

 

[StephanAlberts]

Oh my apologies hark and aroy!

Just checked again and turns out the lever does move... duuuhhhh! had the aperture turned to F1.4 and it didn't move but after moving it to F22 I realised it does. (Sorry I have never had to study lenses so closely!)

I did as you suggested and the lens still seems fine and the aperture does change with no issues and reflects the same values on the camera.

 

[aroy]

Have you tried with the lense aperture set to f22 with the camera off and then switch on the camera. Some how the camera is interpreting the aperture set on the lense wrong - f1.4 as f22 and then adjusting the meter accordingly.

On my D3300 the camera does not meter AIS lenses, but with D lenses, I have to set the on-lense aperture to f22 (max) for the meter to function correctly. I read some where that Nikon cameras require this for the meter to function properly for still photography. For video, you start similarly (at f22) and let the camera set the aperture, but can change the aperture on the fly.

 

[StephanAlberts]

Have you tried with the lense aperture set to f22 with the camera off and then switch on the camera. Some how the camera is interpreting the aperture set on the lense wrong - f1.4 as f22 and then adjusting the meter accordingly.

On my D3300 the camera does not meter AIS lenses, but with D lenses, I have to set the on-lense aperture to f22 (max) for the meter to function correctly. I read some where that Nikon cameras require this for the meter to function properly for still photography. For video, you start similarly (at f22) and let the camera set the aperture, but can change the aperture on the fly.

Ok... lightbulb moment! Before attaching the lens to the camera, I set the aperture to F22. i looked at the aperture inside the lens and the iris was closed to its smallest opening, which is right. But as soon as I attach the lens on the camera the lever forces it open to F1.4 (even though it's still on F22 on the lens meter). After this, even if I turn the aperture ring (and it still reflects the right reading on camera), the iris is stuck it's widest opening.

So this is a lens problem then? Strange how it started doing this on both my lenses at the same time!

Thanks for the help. I will contact Rokinon and see if they can help... really hope I don't have to send it in as I ordered it from the US

 

[hark]

Ok... lightbulb moment! Before attaching the lens to the camera, I set the aperture to F22. i looked at the aperture inside the lens and the iris was closed to its smallest opening, which is right. But as soon as I attach the lens on the camera the lever forces it open to F1.4 (even though it's still on F22 on the lens meter). After this, even if I turn the aperture ring (and it still reflects the right reading on camera), the iris is stuck it's widest opening.

So this is a lens problem then? Strange how it started doing this on both my lenses at the same time!

Thanks for the help. I will contact Rokinon and see if they can help... really hope I don't have to send it in as I ordered it from the US

Although your question isn't directed to me, please put the lens on the camera and set the aperture ring to the smallest aperture. Now please DON'T touch the aperture ring again. Instead do a half press of the shutter and see what aperture is listed on the display on the top of the camera. Rotate the wheel on the front of the camera and see if the aperture ON THE CAMERA'S DISPLAY on the top changes. The aperture ring on the lens will remain set at the smallest aperture.

 

[StephanAlberts]

Although your question isn't directed to me, please put the lens on the camera and set the aperture ring to the smallest aperture. Now please DON'T touch the aperture ring again. Instead do a half press of the shutter and see what aperture is listed on the display on the top of the camera. Rotate the wheel on the front of the camera and see if the aperture ON THE CAMERA'S DISPLAY on the top changes. The aperture ring on the lens will remain set at the smallest aperture.

Hi hark,

I did what you said. Aperture on the lens was set F22, I turned on the camera and pressed the shutter halfway and the display shows as F22. But looking at the lens I can see it has opened all the way to F1.4. Rotating the wheel on the front of the camera doesn't do anything, so it stays at F22. I don't think it ever worked this way, which is why I have always turned the aperture ring on the lens.

 

[Mark F]

Hi hark,

I did what you said. Aperture on the lens was set F22, I turned on the camera and pressed the shutter halfway and the display shows as F22. But looking at the lens I can see it has opened all the way to F1.4. Rotating the wheel on the front of the camera doesn't do anything, so it stays at F22. I don't think it ever worked this way, which is why I have always turned the aperture ring on the lens.

Don't you have to press the function button set for Depth of view in order to see what the real setting for the aperture blades is at? From what I've seen, the lens will always be at its smallest aperture until the shutter is actuated



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Marcel]

Hi hark,

I did what you said. Aperture on the lens was set F22, I turned on the camera and pressed the shutter halfway and the display shows as F22. But looking at the lens I can see it has opened all the way to F1.4. Rotating the wheel on the front of the camera doesn't do anything, so it stays at F22. I don't think it ever worked this way, which is why I have always turned the aperture ring on the lens.

Half pressing the shutter does NOT activate the aperture blades. The lens stays open to it's maximum opening until the shutter is pressed all the way and it closes the aperture just before the shutter opens. What you explain is very normal. Do your lenses have the CPU to tell the camera what the aperture is? With manual lenses on my D700 and D600, I have to use the aperture on the lenses to change the aperture and the meter will only work while the camera is in A mode (aperture priority).

 

[hark]

Half pressing the shutter does NOT activate the aperture blades. The lens stays open to it's maximum opening until the shutter is pressed all the way and it closes the aperture just before the shutter opens. What you explain is very normal. Do your lenses have the CPU to tell the camera what the aperture is? With manual lenses on my D700 and D600, I have to use the aperture on the lenses to change the aperture and the meter will only work while the camera is in A mode (aperture priority).

I should have clarified my info to Stephan a little more clearly. I suggested he do the half shutter press just so the display would become activated and show the aperture information. Sorry if my comment confused you, Stephan!

 

[hark]

So it sounds like you are now on the right track, Stephan. Go back to mounting the lens on the camera with the aperture ring set to f/22 (if that is the smallest aperture on the lens). Press the shutter halfway to activate the display on the camera's top. WHILE the info is being displayed, you want to rotate that front dial on the camera body (command dial I think it is called). Keep watch of the display info. The aperture information *should* change as you rotate the dial. If it does, so far so good. Make sure you have the correct exposure set that you want to use and start taking photos. See if it works, and please let us know! The lens' aperture ring always needs to be set to its smallest aperture and does NOT get changed. When I've inadvertently changed the aperture ring on an AF-D lens, I'd get an ERR message in the display as the camera won't take the photo. At least that's how it has worked for me.

The aperture will only get changed IF the display is activated (by the half press of the shutter). If you just rotate the front dial without the display being activated, nothing should change.

Good luck!

 

[Marcel]

So it sounds like you are now on the right track, Stephan. Go back to mounting the lens on the camera with the aperture ring set to f/22 (if that is the smallest aperture on the lens). Press the shutter halfway to activate the display on the camera's top. WHILE the info is being displayed, you want to rotate that front dial on the camera body (command dial I think it is called). Keep watch of the display info. The aperture information *should* change as you rotate the dial. If it does, so far so good. Make sure you have the correct exposure set that you want to use and start taking photos. See if it works, and please let us know! The lens' aperture ring always needs to be set to its smallest aperture and does NOT get changed. When I've inadvertently changed the aperture ring on an AF-D lens, I'd get an ERR message in the display as the camera won't take the photo. At least that's how it has worked for me.

The aperture will only get changed IF the display is activated (by the half press of the shutter). If you just rotate the front dial without the display being activated, nothing should change.

Good luck!

I have a few Ais lenses and I cannot change the aperture with the front sub-command wheel. I do have to use the lens' ring to change the aperture except with lenses that have a CPU chip installed (My Rokinon 85 1.4 has it). The older Nikons (35 f2, 55 1.2 and 105 2.5) don't so with these I have to use the aperture ring on the lens. But the lens will stay fully open while shooting but metering works in Aperture mode.

 

[hark]

I have a few Ais lenses and I cannot change the aperture with the front sub-command wheel. I do have to use the lens' ring to change the aperture except with lenses that have a CPU chip installed (My Rokinon 85 1.4 has it). The older Nikons (35 f2, 55 1.2 and 105 2.5) don't so with these I have to use the aperture ring on the lens. But the lens will stay fully open while shooting but metering works in Aperture mode.

Thanks, Marcel! I didn't know that about older Ais lenses. I hope Stephan can get his lenses to work on his D600!

 

[aroy]

I have a few Ais lenses and I cannot change the aperture with the front sub-command wheel. I do have to use the lens' ring to change the aperture except with lenses that have a CPU chip installed (My Rokinon 85 1.4 has it). The older Nikons (35 f2, 55 1.2 and 105 2.5) don't so with these I have to use the aperture ring on the lens. But the lens will stay fully open while shooting but metering works in Aperture mode.

That is what that lever is for - move the aperture from full open to pre set vale. With CPU the camera can set the aperture to what it wants, without cpu it has to use the "Rabit ear" to set. Outside DF, other DSLR cannot. So you set desired aperture manually.

 

[sonicbuffalo_RIP]

Dudes....I've learned quite a lot reading this thread....don't have manual lenses (yet)....but I've got somewhat of a working knowledge concerning apertures if I aquire one.

 

[StephanAlberts]

Hi guys, thanks for all the help and responses.

I've been away from the internet for the last few days, been travelling and am currently in South Africa.

Here's an update on what I know:

I got my hands on a Nikon D3100, and attaching both my lenses on that gives me an error, "lens not attached". Doesn't do this on my Nikon D600, I can take photos but I still have the same problem regarding the aperture i.e. every photo is at F1.4 (even if it was taken at F5.6 for example). Doesn't matter what I set the camera at, or where I turn the aperture ring. It only changes the values on the camera (F1.4 - F22), but the iris stays stuck at it's widest opening (F1.4). Also, the front dial to change the aperture still does nothing.

I have a kit lens, AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-55mm. Anything I can do with this on the D600 as a test?

Searching the internet, I found this which sounds similar: Rokinon/Samyang 35mm 1.4 aperture ring woes - Canon Digital Photography Forums

I really hope it isn't a common problem with Rokinon/Samyang because I love these lenses and are in the market for a 85mm and 24mm to complete the set!

 

[aroy]

That is the shortcoming of the D3xxx series bodies. They do not recognize most of the manual focus lenses, nor do they meter or set the aperture. What I do with AIS lens on my D3300 is
. Set the aperture ring to max aperture (F22), and then attach the lens.
. Use the aperture ring to set the desired aperture.
. Use the camera to set the ISO and speed (approximately to what I think is correct).
. Take a test shot and check the histogram. Reset the aperture/speed and check if the histogram is fine.

On the FX bodies, you can set the parameters for MF lenses and the camera will meter (and set the speed/ISO accordingly), but on the D3xxx bodies it is all manual.

So if you use the D3xxx bodies all the settings are manual. If you use FX body then, you enter the lens parameters in the data base, set the aperture manually and let the camera decide the speed/ISO based on its meter. If that does not work, then
. Check the camera, by mounting a Nikon AIS lens. If it works properly, your lens is misbehaving.
. If the AIS lens does not meter properly, then camera body needs attention.

 

[StephanAlberts]

I have a few Ais lenses and I cannot change the aperture with the front sub-command wheel. I do have to use the lens' ring to change the aperture except with lenses that have a CPU chip installed (My Rokinon 85 1.4 has it). The older Nikons (35 f2, 55 1.2 and 105 2.5) don't so with these I have to use the aperture ring on the lens.

This is exactly what I've always done. When I turn the aperture ring, it changes on the lens, in-camera and the actual iris. All of this happens simultaneously. Never been able to change aperture any other way and to be honest I prefer that.

But the lens will stay fully open while shooting but metering works in Aperture mode.

Im only confused about this... are you saying that the iris doesn't open or close while attached to the camera, and the aperture changes are only made in camera? Apologies if this sounds ignorant, but I honestly believed the iris has to open and close while the lens is on the camera in order to make changes to the aperture!

That is the shortcoming of the D3xxx series bodies. They do not recognize most of the manual focus lenses, nor do they meter or set the aperture. What I do with AIS lens on my D3300 is
. Set the aperture ring to max aperture (F22), and then attach the lens.
. Use the aperture ring to set the desired aperture.
. Use the camera to set the ISO and speed (approximately to what I think is correct).
. Take a test shot and check the histogram. Reset the aperture/speed and check if the histogram is fine.

On the FX bodies, you can set the parameters for MF lenses and the camera will meter (and set the speed/ISO accordingly), but on the D3xxx bodies it is all manual.

I did this on the D3100 and I can get past the lens error: "Lens not attached"

So if you use the D3xxx bodies all the settings are manual. If you use FX body then, you enter the lens parameters in the data base, set the aperture manually and let the camera decide the speed/ISO based on its meter. If that does not work, then
. Check the camera, by mounting a Nikon AIS lens. If it works properly, your lens is misbehaving.
. If the AIS lens does not meter properly, then camera body needs attention.

Ok, so I don't have another AIS lens but I put on a AF-S 18-55mm and this happens:

On Aperture priority mode, when I set it at F5 my photos are underexposed and turning the dial in front to F22 completely over exposes my photo. Not only that, but it now also produces an Err on the top display after taking a photo??!

I am starting to believe I need to get my D600 to Nikon to check out

 

[Marcel]

Im only confused about this... are you saying that the iris doesn't open or close while attached to the camera, and the aperture changes are only made in camera? Apologies if this sounds ignorant, but I honestly believed the iris has to open and close while the lens is on the camera in order to make changes to the aperture!

Sorry, I guess I didn't express myself properly. I should have written that the iris will stay open while shooting meaning before you actually depress the shutter. So you can frame and focus at max aperture, but with the lens aperture moved to the desired aperture, the meter knows this and adjusts the shutter speed accordingly (when in A mode). I didn't mean to confuse you nor myself more than we already are with terminology.

 

[aroy]

Ok, so I don't have another AIS lens but I put on a AF-S 18-55mm and this happens:

On Aperture priority mode, when I set it at F5 my photos are underexposed and turning the dial in front to F22 completely over exposes my photo. Not only that, but it now also produces an Err on the top display after taking a photo??!

I am starting to believe I need to get my D600 to Nikon to check out

Here is how the lense aperture works.
. On very old lenses, you set the aperture on the lense and the iris closed to it. For focusing you pushed a lever to open the iris.
. Next came the "auto mode". Here the lense has a small lever on the mount, which moves the iris blades. At one end the lever opes the iris fully. At the other end it stops it down to the aperture set on the lense. When mounted, the aperture on the lense is fully open. When exposing the lever pushes the iris to the set aperture.
. With coming of AF, the camera incorporated a lot of electronics. Now the aperture lever could be used to control the aperture in a step less manner, hence the lense was left at its maximum aperture. The camera controlled at what aperture the image was taken. That is how "Shutter Priority" worked.
. With CPU in lenses, the lense could now have all its characteristics encoded and report to the camera the Maximum, Minimum and the current aperture, as well as the distance at which it was focused.

AF lenses have a CPU. So the camera can control the aperture settings. This is true of the AF-S, AF-D and AF lenses. The non CPU lenses, like AIS, cannot tell the camera where the aperture is set, except by the "Rabbit Ears" (which is the mechanical linkage between the lense and the body to report at what aperture the lense is set).

That is why with older lenses, you have to set the aperture manually, and tell the camera that, so that it can meter. The metering is done at open aperture, when exposing the iris closes to the aperture set on the lense.