The Benedictine abbey church of Conques (2017)
The Mediæval village of Conques (southwestern France) is all about Saint Faith (sainte Foy), a young Christian martyr put to death in 303. When miracles began to happen around her sepulture, a first sanctuary was built in the 5th century to organize a pilgrimage that was ever-growing in popularity. To better benefit from it, the bishops of Agen had that young saint’s bones transported to their city. The site of Conques fell back into silence and isolation. Then, a hermit named Dadon came to settle there around 790, and around 800 his hermitage was turned into a monastery —hence the legend according to which the abbey of Conques had been founded by Emperor Charlemagne, which has no basis in historical fact.
The abbey remained a small and out-of-the-way monastery with no particular claim to fame, until one of those most juicy and humorous Mediæval episodes happened around 870: ten years before, a monk from the abbey named Ariviscus had left and gone to Agen, where he, hiding his quality, put himself to the service of the church where the sacred bones of Saint Faith were kept. For ten years he worked diligently his way up the clerical ladder until, his devotion and hard work having earned him the trust of the bishop, he was put in charge of the surveillance of the relics. Then, on the evening of the Epiphany, he did what he had meant to do all along: he simply stole them and brought them back to the saint’s native village of Conques, in what is officially termed by the Church a “pious translation” (i.e., stealing, but with a good reason

). Back in what would be their truly final resting place, the bones brought forth a slew of miracles, throngs of pilgrims and an abundance of donations.
Several abbey churches needed to be built successively to accommodate the ever-growing crowds. The one we can still see today was erected during most of the Romanesque age, between 1000 and 1200. It is famous worldwide for its tympanum that depicts The Last Judgment. It was on the first list of French Historic Landmarks drawn up in 1840, and is a major stop on the Via Podiensis Path to Compostela, and hence a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1998.
To adequately photograph the entire façade of the abbey church with not a lot of space to step back, I had to use the Nikkor 19mm tilt-shift lens. This 2017 photo tells me I already had one back then, associated with the D810. Over time, I had three copies of that lens. One was stolen from me with the rest of my gear on a high-speed train in France, and another I am terribly ashamed to admit I have simply lost. It was in Brittany, on a dark and rainy day, on a windy clifftop near Crozon. I was still on-site when I realized the lens was gone, but I never could find it again, no matter how hard and methodically I re-traced my steps and went all over the place with a fine comb —or so I thought, considering the bad weather and the scarce light. At nightfall I had to leave, I returned the next day and searched the area again, to no avail. The disappearance of that costly lens remains a mystery, and so I had to buy a third one, which fortunately is still with me today (fingers crossed!).
Telling this story made me look at my accounting software, where I saw I bought one in March 2017 for 3,200 euros (the one I used to take the photo below), then another one in August 2020 for 2,800 euros. With the last copy I still have today, the total bill would have been around 9,000 euros for one single lens, except that the copy that was stolen from me was paid for by insurance. So, “only” 6,000 euros...
Nikon D810, Nikkor 19mm, ƒ/4 PC-E tilt-shift lens, manual focus, handheld.