D750 Remote ML-L3 can't set to 'On'

voxmagna

Senior Member
Hi all, I want to use my D750 inside a waterproof bag and thought it a good idea to buy the ML-L3 rather than fiddle with controls through the bag. However, although I see all the remote options in the shooting menu I annot set Off to On? I do have some custom options set for U1 which I'm reluctant to reset to defaults as I'm happy with them.

My question is, Is there a menu option that disables ML-L3? I've checked the custom time is set to 15 Minutes, but is there something else or a setting that could conflict? I have custom settings assigned to U1, but I've tried Auto and still can't enable ML-L3.
Thanks
 

Needa

Senior Member
Challenge Team
Hi all, I want to use my D750 inside a waterproof bag and thought it a good idea to buy the ML-L3 rather than fiddle with controls through the bag. However, although I see all the remote options in the shooting menu I annot set Off to On? I do have some custom options set for U1 which I'm reluctant to reset to defaults as I'm happy with them.

My question is, Is there a menu option that disables ML-L3? I've checked the custom time is set to 15 Minutes, but is there something else or a setting that could conflict? I have custom settings assigned to U1, but I've tried Auto and still can't enable ML-L3.
Thanks
In the shooting menu there is no on. You must select, 2s Delayed remote, Quick-response remote or Remote mirror up under Remote Control Mode.
 

voxmagna

Senior Member
Thanks, so when I see Remote control mode (ML-L3) 'Off' it doesn't mean anything? The manual suggests a right arrow to change it, but nothing changes for me, it still displays off.

I've discovered even with a new battery my remote is dead when I look through the camera pointed at the IR led. Perhaps when I know a remote works, something will happen or 'off' changes, or only changes to 'on' during the time set in custom setting? I'll buy a cheap clone remote and if it works, add a red led to tell me invisible IR is operating. That's how most car fobs the world over work.

Can somebody look at their camera settings, remote menu, set remote option fast shutter and tell me if the status still says 'off' and changes during the time remote operation is enabled after it gets the first IR remote pulse? Thanks
 

Needa

Senior Member
Challenge Team
Right arrow with the Multi selector should bring up the menu which will allow you to select one of the other options, by using up select "Quick-response remote" select OK in the Multi selector the shooting menu should now show an icon instead of off.
 
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voxmagna

Senior Member
Thanks that's what I see now. What confused me was when I went back to the remote menu it kept telling me remote was off, well what it mean't was I could turn it off! The camera also defaults back to remote off when you turn off the camera. Some things aren't always intuitively logical. Fingers crossed it will work with a new remote. It would be nice to have an icon in the viewfinder when remote is enabled, then you wouldn't be caught out after its on setting times out. Thanks for your help.
 

voxmagna

Senior Member
Thanks that's what I see now. What confused me was when I went back to the remote menu it kept telling me remote was off, well what it mean't was I could turn it off! The camera also defaults back to remote off when you turn off the camera. Some things aren't always intuitively logical. Fingers crossed it will work with a new remote. It would be nice to have an icon in the viewfinder when remote is enabled, then you wouldn't be caught out after its on setting times out. Thanks for your help.
 

voxmagna

Senior Member
O.K I have more info to share. I bought 2 ML-L3 IR remote clones - see photo. There are hundreds on auction sites. Item 1 was dead on arrival when pointed at a digital camera - no pulsed IR output. After wiggling the poor cheap battery holder I got some IR output but my D750 wouldn't respond, hence my post to the community.

I ordered another different brand no.2 in my photo. That had no IR output but after some fiddling with the battery I got IR output and this time the D750 worked. I decided to tear both remotes apart and look inside. Unfortunately for this post I don't have a genuine Nikon ML-L3 to compare. For both you carefully peel back the topside white labels to reveal the board fixing screws underneath. I powered remote (1) from a 3V bench power supply and it triggered the camera. I noticed the power supply drew a momentary peak power pulse of about 80mA which is high for a coin cell. When I inspected remote board (1) they fitted a 1uF capacitor on the battery line whereas remote (2) had 100uF. A high value capacitor is needed to supply high current IR pulses. Another interesting difference between (1)&(2) was (1) was fitted with a CR2025 coin cell and (2) was fitted with a larger (deeper) 2032 coin cell. The battery holder in (1) was very poor and the shallower CR2025 cell would not make proper contact. I fitted a CR2032 cell in (1) and it worked. Remote (2) was slightly better made, after cleaning the battery holder with alcohol that worked to.

These ML-L3 are poorly made. In this application drawing high peak pulse current, battery connections must be low resistance and very clean. Otherwise there will be no IR output, the camera 'appears' to lack sensitivity, or the remote may be intermittent and unreliable.


How to make them better? First option could be to solder in the coin cell, but coin cells aren't the best choice of battery and there's still only 1 IR emitter whereas range and reliability would improve with 2 emitters and a red indicator led. My long term solution is to put remote (1) board in a small project box, power from a flat rechargeable li-po cell, add a buffer to drive 2 IR leds and a red led tell tale led. There are many complaints about the ML-L3 which I hope to solve by re-packaging my clone.


Nikon-IR-Remotes.jpg
 
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BF Hammer

Senior Member
The Nikon ML-L3 uses CR-2025 cell in a slide-out holder. I would guess the imitators would try to copy that.

I believe the IR sensor of the D750 is not as good as other cameras. I originally bought my remote for a D80, and have also used sparingly for a D7000, D750. I never liked that IR remote much. It is only useable in front of the camera. Range is kind of limited in daylight. It is intended as a self-portrait shutter release. My best use was on a D80 shooting an outdoor wedding using a 2nd camera fixed on tripod. I could walk around the ceremony with the primary camera and trigger the 2nd camera with remote for an alternate angle at key points.

I much prefer the wired remote shutter release, but understand that is not a good option for your wet task. Is controlling by Snapbridge app from your phone a viable option? The wifi gets finicky sometimes on a D750 but the app works well for remote photography.
 

voxmagna

Senior Member
Yes, I read people have choices and some point out the disadvantages. Wireless (rf) built into the camera or over Bluetooth via a phone App (not power hungry wi-fi) would be preferable. I've used cheap wireless garage door openers in several projects. Another option is wireless r.f triggering an IR emitter hanging near the camera rear sensor?

The issue with daylight or camera IR focussing interference is probably down to filtering of their IR sensor, even though they are probably using near IR 750nM for focussing and higher 1000nM for remote trigger? My T.V remote works fine in daylight, so IR links shouldn't be rocket science. But thinking some more, we like sun behind the camera and it could confuse low level IR pointing at the camera from the front or side? If they are using a decent Sharp receiver in the camera (?) increasing transmitter power using 2 IR leds should make a difference. Many T.V remotes use 1IR receiver + 2 or 3X emitters and 2 or 4X 1.5V AA batteries.

For my wet task I'm behind the camera with the remote fob inches away from the keep dry bag and not a problem now it works. I've tried Snapbridge but I didn't think the D750 built in wifi receiver was that good as an Access Point and as a feature it becomes another battery power consumer. For a wet task using Snapbridge, the phone would have to be in a keep dry bag, whereas I'm not bothered if a cheap ML-L3 clone gets wet.
 
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