D750 and Tamron 150-600mm soft

[tomb65]

They are shooting with a $10,000 + lens But they have limitations also.

The Tamron is very picky about Tele converters. I have a Kenko 1.4 and the Tamron will not focus with it. Also I have used that TC on my 70-300 and it will focus BUT the image quality is better if I shoot without it and just crop. I guess a high wnd (Expensive) TC might be a lot better but make sure it is compatible with the Tamron

For me couldn't look the wife in the eye if I bought a lens costing 2k never mind 10k As an amateur I have to make do with what I have and purchase the best lens I can afford

 

[Don Kuykendall_RIP]

For me couldn't look the wife in the eye if I bought a lens costing 2k never mind 10k As an amateur I have to make do with what I have and purchase the best lens I can afford

I agree 100%. I am retired on a fixed income and the D750 and the lenses I have bought were the best I can do and i do love them The key to all of this is learning the limitations of your gear and getting all you can from what your have.

 

[tomb65]

I agree 100%. I am retired on a fixed income and the D750 and the lenses I have bought were the best I can do and i do love them The key to all of this is learning the limitations of your gear and getting all you can from what your have.

exactly what I plan to do, I've just purchased a new 18-35 f3.5-4.5, read a load of reviews and for the price its almost as good as the 16-35 f4 which I couldn't afford. I now have this as my wide angle, the 24-120 f4 as my walkabout, my 50 D 1.8 as my portrait and standard stuff and my tamron 150-600 as my super zoom, I think this is enough and should be able to do most things, I mainly shoot wildlife and landscapes. I think these are good lenses.
Thoughts?

 

[Don Kuykendall_RIP]

exactly what I plan to do, I've just purchased a new 18-35 f3.5-4.5, read a load of reviews and for the price its almost as good as the 16-35 f4 which I couldn't afford. I now have this as my wide angle, the 24-120 f4 as my walkabout, my 50 D 1.8 as my portrait and standard stuff and my tamron 150-600 as my super zoom, I think this is enough and should be able to do most things, I mainly shoot wildlife and landscapes. I think these are good lenses.
Thoughts?

I just bought the Tokina 16-28 f/2.8 to round out my lenses I have the 24-120, the 70-300 (which is a nice little lens) a 50 1.8 which gets very little use and the Tamron 150-600. Pretty much covers everything I want to shoot. My Tokina 16-28 f/2.8 is my newest and turning out to be one of my favorites.

 

[Fat Fingers]

And if you put a UV filter on it take it off .....I put one on for a bird shoot in the Somme Estuary and every single one was useless.

Removing the UV and all was well........ F8 1/1000 + fine tune spot on

 

[tomb65]

A quick question on fine tuning this lens, I used the Dot-Tune method and found that at 150mm it needed +2, however if I moved the camera back it didn't need any adjustment, for 600mm it needed +8 however when I moved back it needed +4, if I moved forward it needed a negative adjustment for both FL's. To me the Dot-Tune in theory is great but in reality it doesn't really work, do I need to be exactly 50x my FL away? its hard to measure exactly, sorry for the off topic

 

[Don Kuykendall_RIP]

A quick question on fine tuning this lens, I used the Dot-Tune method and found that at 150mm it needed +2, however if I moved the camera back it didn't need any adjustment, for 600mm it needed +8 however when I moved back it needed +4, if I moved forward it needed a negative adjustment for both FL's. To me the Dot-Tune in theory is great but in reality it doesn't really work, do I need to be exactly 50x my FL away? its hard to measure exactly, sorry for the off topic

The most critical part of fine tuning is going to be at the long end (600mm) so that is where you have to tune it. And 50x is where you need to be because that is the kind of distance you are going ot be using the lens.

50x600mm = 30,000mm or 30 Meters or 98.43 feet Just round that off to 100 feet.

Distance and a good target is most important. Also turn off VR and shoot wide open. Largest aperture will give you the least amount of DOF which will show you the focus more critically.

It is very hard for me to see the slight differences in focus on the camera or even on a monitor so that is why I went with a computer based fine tuning system FoCal

 

[Fat Fingers]

The 750 is not an ideal birding camera..I have the 150-600 and on my D810 its nowhere near as good as my 71000.. For birds its all about Pixels on image...
When you are doing your fine focus adjust use 600mm and do it in JPEG at sharpness +9 as this maximises the clarity of the image ...I use some bird feathers at 100ft and go from -20 to +20 in 5 increments to get the ball park then hone in on the exact point which for me is +3. In the field I shoot at F8.
I checked the D810 against the D3200 (yes 3200) and there is no difference so you will struggle with the 750 ( though you will have fun)

 

[Don Kuykendall_RIP]

The 750 is not an ideal birding camera..I have the 150-600 and on my D810 its nowhere near as good as my 71000.. For birds its all about Pixels on image...
When you are doing your fine focus adjust use 600mm and do it in JPEG at sharpness +9 as this maximises the clarity of the image ...I use some bird feathers at 100ft and go from -20 to +20 in 5 increments to get the ball park then hone in on the exact point which for me is +3. In the field I shoot at F8.
I checked the D810 against the D3200 (yes 3200) and there is no difference so you will struggle with the 750 ( though you will have fun)

I don't struggle with BIF with my D750 and 150-600. It is in fact pretty easy. I have a very high keeper rate with that combo.

 

[Fat Fingers]

Sorry Don meant you will struggle to get the ultimate IQ that the Tamron 150-600 will give as you don't have the pixel density on a 750 or a 810 that you do on a 24 MP DX.....I hope the new FX camera is a 54MP to give the high pixel density with the ease of locating the target you get with FX over DX