That is because your eyes were not focused on her head! Shame on you!
Here is one more of Cris. I am not going to post any more showing any more skin, so forget it!
Crystal on the tracks
- Thread starter STM
- Start date
That is because your eyes were not focused on her head! Shame on you!
Here is one more of Cris. I am not going to post any more showing any more skin, so forget it!
Very nice portraits using AiS lens Sim.
I myself owns 180mm ED. Awesome lens I'd say.
It seems that you've modified you camera screen to microprism/split image ones.
I still rely on the 'dot' on the left bottom side of viewfinder.
And have so much of a pain shooting vertically.
How much did you paid for that mod?
I myself owns 180mm ED. Awesome lens I'd say.
It seems that you've modified you camera screen to microprism/split image ones.
I still rely on the 'dot' on the left bottom side of viewfinder.
And have so much of a pain shooting vertically.
How much did you paid for that mod?
Thanks! The screen on the F4S was easy, it takes the same screens as the F3. I just had to swap the screen frames. For the D700, I got a modified Canon microprism screen from focusingscreen.com. It works like an absolute champ. There are times when the microprism is crystal clear but the focusing dot is not illuminated. The screen is right and not the dot, especially in dim light. The URL for the D700 microprism screen is Focusing Screen
They are now about $78 but they were not that expensive when I got mine a couple of years ago.
STM - How did you recompose your shot when the focus point is at the center?
And for exposures. Do you have to press AE-L button ? ... sorry for asking too much question ...
BTW - thanks for the LINK ...
I do not use the camera's meter 95% of the time, going all the way back to when I first got my F2's. I have never even used any of the "auto" buttons after two and a half years of owning the camera. I normally use a Sekonic L-358 incident/flash meter or a Pentax Spotmeter V. For me, the D700 is nothing more than a digital version of a Nikon F2. It stays in manual over 99% of the time
Last edited:
Gezz. When using 180mm AiS, most of my time I rely on camera exposures.
Shooting in 'M' mode, using spot metering exposures are set at -2.
Well that's me...
Thanks for showing me the ways of using better methods...much appreciated...
I guess for me, it is that old dog new tricks thing. I am not one to let a machine do the thinking for me when it comes to exposure. The camera's meter, no matter how sophisticated, does not know what I want to do with the scene. And quite often I do not agree with what the camera's meter says, fancy schmancy "matrix" metering or not. Nothing personal Nikon engineers, but you don't know what I want to do with the exposure. This is especially true when I shoot black and white film. I still use Ansel Adams' Zone System with black and white film. And the spotmeter with digital to get the best exposure. I am not ashamed I am woefully ignorant of most of the D700's functions because I would never use them. I have all manual AIS and AI lenses so I have no need for autofocus and unless I am in a hurry I take my time and use hand held meters and experience to arrive at the correct exposure.
Yes it was natural light but no, an 85mm f/1.8 @ f/2.8 will not have as shallow a depth of field as I had here. Not even close.
Last edited:
I do not own any autofocus lenses, all my lenses are manual focus AI or AIS prime lenses. In fact I don't even know how to use the autofocus feature on the D700 so I just have it disabled in the menus. In all honesty, if I even knew 10% of what the D700 is capable of, I would be surprised, I just don't have a need for it. The first thing I did, actually I ordered it simultaneously, when I got my D700, was to get a microprism/ground glass focusing screen for it because the screens which are in cameras designed for autofocus (from the F4 onward) are generally unsuitable for critical manual focusing. So to answer your question, I focused on her face. The camera and 300mm f/2.8 lens were mounted on a tripod to minimize any loss of sharpness due to camera movement because it was overcast and later in the day and it is very rare when I up the ISO past 100.
Last edited: