Control Panel LCD staying on

[BackdoorArts]

As a slight aside, I only turn my camera off if I think it may get activated when I'm travelling and it's in a bag. From my D70, D300, D800 and D7100 I leave it on as it reduces wear on the switch (probably silly to worry about that) and it is always ready to shoot, although I know a DSLR boots virtually instantly. I've left them on for months in the past and it barely touches the battery.

I've always read that the camera should be off when you remove the card and swap lenses or it may not read correctly.

One caution, if you do swap lenses with the camera on, make sure to turn VR off before removing the lens or you can damage it.

I'm with the others regarding getting a 10 rated card. Until then, make sure the 6 is your primary as it will write faster.

 

[Geoffc]

I've always read that the camera should be off when you remove the card and swap lenses or it may not read correctly.

One caution, if you do swap lenses with the camera on, make sure to turn VR off before removing the lens or you can damage it.

I'm with the others regarding getting a 10 rated card. Until then, make sure the 6 is your primary as it will write faster.

Jake I've read and heard the rumour about the points you make and they are undoubtedly the official line and I would not advise somebody to ignore the guidance. Perhaps I'm lucky, but I've taken a rather cavalier attitude to this over the years since the D70 came out and regularly swap lenses with the body switched on and with VR in whatever position I've left it in. I did read some years ago that if you turn VR off it parks the mirrors for transit but I don't know how true that is. My other crime is that I either use the body switch OR the lens switch to disable autofocus. I think you are supposed to do both. Apparently this is another no no. Anyway, on that note I'd better get the door as the courier is just bringing all my gear back from the Nikon service centre for the fifth time this year

 

[BackdoorArts]

The real issue with the VR is whether or not the motor has come to rest. If it hasn't activated in the last 20-30 seconds then you're likely fine with the power on. But if the gyroscopes are moving and they lose power it can be bad.

I'm pretty sure the AF is an either or thing provided the focus motor is in the lens. If the lens relies on the camera then I believe both need to be disengaged, if there's even one on the lens.

 

[hark]

The real issue with the VR is whether or not the motor has come to rest. If it hasn't activated in the last 20-30 seconds then you're likely fine with the power on. But if the gyroscopes are moving and they lose power it can be bad.

I'm pretty sure the AF is an either or thing provided the focus motor is in the lens. If the lens relies on the camera then I believe both need to be disengaged, if there's even one on the lens.

A couple of times I removed a lens (ALWAYS with the camera off) but forget to turn off the VR. Fortunately nothing appeared to be compromised, but I've always heard it is best to turn off the VR as well as the camera before removing the lens.

And speaking of the LCD staying on--once when shooting one of the low light drama productions, for some reason one photo took forever to write to the card. Normally under the same circumstances, the file would get written to the card in a nano-second (all of my cards are Class 10). I finally switched the camera off, and it did turn off completely without any compromises. I've never had the problem repeat itself--not sure why it ever happened in the first place. And at that time, I don't think I was saving any RAW files...just jpeg fine.

 

[BackdoorArts]

A couple of times I removed a lens (ALWAYS with the camera off) but forget to turn off the VR. Fortunately nothing appeared to be compromised, but I've always heard it is best to turn off the VR as well as the camera before removing the lens.

You're always OK if the camera is off. Just give the VR a chance to park in all cases.

 

[rockypaul]

Correct on both counts. Get only Class 10/UHS-1 rated cards. I also strongly suggest you just suck it up and pay the extra couple bucks for a well-known brand of card like Transcend, SanDisk or Lexar from a respected merchant: No eBay.

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Thank you, very helpful posts from everyone, a Class 10 UHS-1 600X 90MB/s High Speed SDXC Memory Card it is then...!! now where did i put that piggy bank...

 

[Geoffc]

I'm pretty sure the AF is an either or thing provided the focus motor is in the lens. If the lens relies on the camera then I believe both need to be disengaged, if there's even one on the lens.

Jake,

I just checked and the D800 manual (page 101) seems to suggest you need to set manual on both. As I said I've always thrown caution to the wind.

This seems to be the Nikon position on VR

https://nikoneurope-en.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/21602/~/removing-a-vr-lens-from-a-camera

 

[BackdoorArts]

I'm seeing "or"...

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica]When you wish to remove a Nikon vibration reduction (VR) lens from your camera, it is important not to turn the camera off or detach the lens from the camera while vibration reduction is still in operation. Let the VR system stop or turn the VR system off using the VR on /off switch on the lens before turning off the camera and removing the lens.[/FONT]

So they definitely want the camera turned off, but as long as the VR stops first you don't need to turn it off.

 

[Horoscope Fish]

... a Class 10 UHS-1 600X 90MB/s High Speed SDXC Memory Card it is then...!! now where did i put that piggy bank...

Save yourself a lot of money and pick up a pair (or two (I like having a spare set)) of SanDisk Extreme SD cards.
32GB cards will run you about $30 on Amazon. These are all you need.

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