Clovis' Nikon Nuggets

Clovishound

Senior Member
Why can't these bees spend some time on flowers of a different color? I have a number of nice blue and purple flowers, but no, they have to spend their time on the yellow ones.


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At least this wasp found something with a little more contrast to light on.


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Clovishound

Senior Member
Got another couple shots of an ambush bug.

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There are so many features on this bug, that having a 3/4 (ish) shot will throw a lot of that outside the DOF. Makes for a confusing image at times. I went ahead and set up the tripod, since he is slow moving, and shot a focus stack. Had some wind issues, but I was patient, and it died down long enough to get a few shots. Had the extension tubes on my 105 micro, but still had to crop a decent amount, due to his small size.


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Clovishound

Senior Member
I had a tough time getting the green of the grasshopper to look natural in post processing. I have some pastel purple flowers coming on right now. I'm hoping to get a few interesting looking insects on them. Right now, the thistles are drawing the crowds. That is the middle fly pic, as well as the first wasp image. Those weren't among the wildflower seed mix I planted, they just came up volunteer. Normally, they get mowed down long before flowering.
 

Clovishound

Senior Member
And a few more. I would like to make some trips out and shoot something a little different, but it's just so darned hot.

This one would have been much better if the fly had both of his wings back. I guess I'm lucky, as soon as I got focus and hit the shutter, he took off. I think I got him just as he was revving up his engines for takeoff.

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blackstar

Senior Member

Clovishound

Senior Member
Thanks, I'm trying to use the opportunities to shoot macro in my backyard to learn and grow. I don't have the variety of subjects that I do going farther afield, but the quick feedback of editing images minutes after taking them may help with the learning process. I've been very pleased with the quality of light from the homemade diffuser I made. It's a little flimsy, so now I need to decide whether to make a more durable model, or just order the commercially available one. The nature photography club I recently joined is having a macro workshop next weekend. Looks like it's going to be a studio affair, vs out in the field, but hopefully I'll learn some valuable techniques.
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blackstar

Senior Member
I also started to work on Macro recently (not as long as you did) when I acquired the new z105. So far it's going rather slowly... other than the unavailability of good interesting subjects (don't have a nice backyard like yours), the lighting issue is the most dominant hindrance I often encounter. Adding salt to the wound, acceptable DOF requires a large f-number which further worsens the lighting issue. Just recently I learned the camera body also affects Macro image as I changed from z6ii to z8 the AF worked much faster, better, and more successfully. Now I am pondering the need for lighting assistance... I heard Nikon's kit is very good but expensive... maybe later though.
 

Clovishound

Senior Member
I shoot most of my macro with a flash. It solves the issues with needing a tripod, using low ISOs, and small apertures. I can shoot handheld without worrying about camera shake or subject movement. I use the Godox 685. It runs around $130. They have a smaller, less powerful unit for well under $100. You'll need a diffuser. They run from free (making one from materials around the house) to $10-$15 for some of the popular pop out fabric or small softbox. Some of the nicer ones are over $100, but IMO are not exponentially better.

FYI, I normally use manual focus. That isn't a requirement, but I find using AF too frustrating for higher magnification work. Yes, I get a LOT of out of focus shots, but my understanding is that is par for the course with insect macro work. Maybe the Z8 will do better at AF, but when you are working at near 1:1 the least little swaying motion will radically change the focus, and most AF systems cannot handle that. I do use focus peaking to assist in manual focus. FYI I normally preset the focus and then use back and forth movement of the camera to fine tune focus.

This is an image made with the $10 pop out fabric that fits over the lens barrel.

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And here's one taken with my homemade model similar to something like the AK that runs over $100. IMO, it has softer, more even light and is an upgrade from the popup. However, the inexpensive model does a great job and is very convenient to store, deploy, and then put back up. It can be folded into a very small package, or stored extended, but flat (only a few sheets of paper thick).

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blackstar

Senior Member
I shoot most of my macro with a flash. It solves the issues with needing a tripod, using low ISOs, and small apertures. I can shoot handheld without worrying about camera shake or subject movement. I use the Godox 685. It runs around $130. They have a smaller, less powerful unit for well under $100. You'll need a diffuser. They run from free (making one from materials around the house) to $10-$15 for some of the popular pop out fabric or small softbox. Some of the nicer ones are over $100, but IMO are not exponentially better.

FYI, I normally use manual focus. That isn't a requirement, but I find using AF too frustrating for higher magnification work. Yes, I get a LOT of out of focus shots, but my understanding is that is par for the course with insect macro work. Maybe the Z8 will do better at AF, but when you are working at near 1:1 the least little swaying motion will radically change the focus, and most AF systems cannot handle that. I do use focus peaking to assist in manual focus. FYI I normally preset the focus and then use back and forth movement of the camera to fine tune focus.

This is an image made with the $10 pop out fabric that fits over the lens barrel.

View attachment 407605

And here's one taken with my homemade model similar to something like the AK that runs over $100. IMO, it has softer, more even light and is an upgrade from the popup. However, the inexpensive model does a great job and is very convenient to store, deploy, and then put back up. It can be folded into a very small package, or stored extended, but flat (only a few sheets of paper thick).

View attachment 407601
You have the first image shot at f/19 and still can not cover the DOF to the wings and legs (and the nearby follower). Maybe focus stacking is the only way to do it...

I often use AF-C to burst moving objects for continuously changing focus... this way I get various images of moving objects in focus (just like BIF).
 

Clovishound

Senior Member
DOF is the 800 lb gorilla in the room when it comes to macro. Often focus stacking is the only way to get exactly what you want. With insects, often stacking is not an option because of subject movement. I've had situations where I thought the insect was rock steady, only to have extra legs, or antennae show up in the stacking process. One single shot solution is to shoot the insect so that the body lies parallel to the sensor plane. The issue with this is that it is often not the best esthetic choice. When I have the option, I try to shoot a variety of different angles and pick the best when I get home. On the other hand shallow DOF is your friend, in that it blurs out what would often be too busy a background and can often help separate your subject from the background.

Like welding and woodturning, macro looks easy from the outside. Just find a field with lots of insects and go shoot. In practice, there are lots of variables, obstacles and things to trip you up. And, like welding and woodturning, once you get some of the basics under your belt and start making acceptable products, it can become quite fun and even addictive. I turned out to be a reasonable woodturner. I can join two pieces of steel together, but do not consider myself a welder. I'll let you decide whether I can claim to be a macro photographer or not.

In the end, if you are growing and having fun with it, external opinions of your work should be irrelevant. For better or worse, most of us crave external validation of our images.
 

Clovishound

Senior Member
I swear every time I walk out back, I discover something that catches my interest and have to go get my camera. I have taken to leaving it out with the 105 micro and flash on it. Today I was initially drawn to a wasp. By the time I got back with the Z, it was gone. Then I discovered this delta flower scarab beetle.

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The next thing I know, there is a turf war going on. MINE, MINE, MINE!


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Followed by an uneasy truce.


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blackstar

Senior Member
DOF is the 800 lb gorilla in the room when it comes to macro. Often focus stacking is the only way to get exactly what you want. With insects, often stacking is not an option because of subject movement. I've had situations where I thought the insect was rock steady, only to have extra legs, or antennae show up in the stacking process. One single shot solution is to shoot the insect so that the body lies parallel to the sensor plane. The issue with this is that it is often not the best esthetic choice. When I have the option, I try to shoot a variety of different angles and pick the best when I get home. On the other hand shallow DOF is your friend, in that it blurs out what would often be too busy a background and can often help separate your subject from the background.

Like welding and woodturning, macro looks easy from the outside. Just find a field with lots of insects and go shoot. In practice, there are lots of variables, obstacles and things to trip you up. And, like welding and woodturning, once you get some of the basics under your belt and start making acceptable products, it can become quite fun and even addictive. I turned out to be a reasonable woodturner. I can join two pieces of steel together, but do not consider myself a welder. I'll let you decide whether I can claim to be a macro photographer or not.

In the end, if you are growing and having fun with it, external opinions of your work should be irrelevant. For better or worse, most of us crave external validation of our images.
I was just trying to figure out (and learn) how a small aperture would affect DOF in the case of Macro or close-up images. No criticizing or negative opinion on the picture you posted. AW, some parts of the image not in focus don't always make it bad. If I unconsciously offended you, I apologize.
 

Clovishound

Senior Member
No offense was taken at all. I have no problem with folks pointing out things, good or bad in my images. That can be a valuable tool in learning for both myself and others. FTR, I didn't look on your statement as a negative assessment of the image, just commenting on one of the obvious aspects of this type of shooting. Limited DOF is part and parcel with macro work. You are right, in many cases, focus stacking is the only way to get the entire subject in focus.

Looking back over my post I can see where you might get the impression I was bothered by your comments. I was not. I was simply rambling on about learning a new skill.

Just don't talk bad about my cat.

Everything else is fair game. ;)
 

Clovishound

Senior Member
OK, this if for you Blackstar, and anyone else who is interested in the issue of DOF with macro. At the risk of a continued assault on a deceased equine, here are two images. I was lucky enough to spot a lynx spider sitting on some bushes in the yard. I got my gear out and decided this was a good subject for a focus stack. As I stated before, I don't often use focus stacking, but it is a great tool that yields results unobtainable by other methods. I mostly do handheld stacks, but after I kept drifting off my framing, I decided to grab the tripod and do it the "right" way.

Anyway, here is the single image to give a comparison. IMO, this is a decent image, and the DOF is pretty good for something this close. I would not consider the shallow DOF to be a detriment to this image. FYI it was shot at F/16.

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This was a stack of 6 images. Since I was shooting at F/16, I was able to get by with far less images in the stack than a lot of people use. I hear of folks often using 50-100 images, which seems like overkill to me. However, I do realize that if you have to use a larger aperture, it will definitely increase the number of images needed. I have had PS tell me I didn't have enough overlap to process a stack. I have also had some weird looking out of focus sections, presumably because I didn't have enough overlap, however, the software "thought" it was enough, but couldn't decide on the best portion of an image for a certain area.

OK, I just noticed that I somehow missed focus on the near end of one of the front legs. I'll have to look at the second set of stacks I took as insurance. This doesn't overly bother me, but once you notice it, it's hard to ignore.


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