Closeups with D3400 - having great difficulty !!

[Clovishound]

The 18-55 was a "kit" lens that was offered with the D3400 and other crop sensor cameras. It was often paired with a 70-300. I purchased a D3400 for my daughter several years ago. It came with both of these lenses, plus a camera bag and memory card, and the kit was on sale, new, for $500. It isn't a top of the line lens, but, IMO, is a solid performer, especially considering the price point. Light, quiet, fast and positive AF, and decent optical performance. The Ken Rockwell review I read gave it very favorable marks, and even bragged about the close focusing it offered. They are available used, for around the price of a decent, but not extravagant, sit down meal for two.


Good idea to try out your buddy's lens on your camera.

 

[MoreCowbell]

Okay, if you might please indulge this. I have learned a lot from comments in this thread - perhaps the most important one from Clovis about the subtle "half-trigger". I'm embarrased that I forgot that technique.

I made a few more attempts with the AF-P DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR lens - this time with perhaps a little more success.
The pics are attached and I here provide a map indicating the settings. Perhaps you can vote on what you think is the best one, or maybe you have addditional suggestions. In what I did here, I think the key factors are:

1. The lighting (To do this, my lens needs a lot of light, which probably goes to comments about the flash attachment.)
2. The "half-trigger" before taking the final click.

My takeaway:
• The jalapeño pictures are probably the best (most useful).
Instructions for Form 1040-X (Rev. January 2023)
• The A/F mode was underwhelming.
• Macro mode was probably the best (read: sharpest).
• The A-priority mode rendered a decent image with a little wider DoF (but not as convenient as Macro.
• I still think this is not the best lens for doing shots like this but it's the best I have. An upgrade is in order ...

 

[Clovishound]

Firstly, all the shots were sharp (within their depth of field) and had good resolution. This is a good starting point.

I notice you choose to shoot many at full wide angle. If you are looking at macro shots, I would choose the longest focal length on a zoom, unless you are using extension tubes and are able to get more magnification with a closer minimum focus distance at shorter focal lengths. I know, it's counter intuitive, but that is the reality with extension tubes. Having said this, you don't always need maximum magnification, but if you are up close, it's usually quite easy to back up a little to get everything you want in frame.

The other thing I noticed is that you were set at ISO 3200 in A mode. As a result you had unnecessarily high shutter speeds. ISO 3200 will give you very noisy images. I would use something like ISO 100 or 200 unless you really need higher ISOs in order to shoot faster shutter speeds handheld, or with a moving subject. Find out how low a shutter speed you can produce consistently sharp images at maximum magnification.

I would point out the difference in depth of field between the F8 shots and the F22/F36 shots. Of course the trade off is it requires more light. As magnification increases, DOF decreases, so the smaller apertures become more useful.

The other thing you need to do is to figure out what you want to take pictures of. Flowers, insects, snails, watches, each have their own needs and appeal. I remember Edward Weston was obsessed with peppers. I lean more towards insects, but am willing to branch out to other subjects when they present themselves.

 

[Needa]

Already making improvements. The difference I see with the clammyweed and the jalapeño is the frame is not filled, excluding the setting differences.

 

[MoreCowbell]

By "closeup", what I mean is pointing the lens at an object about a foot away. Nothing is in focus !!

And that is exactly the point. You cannot bring that lens that close to your subject. It cannot focus that closely. Unless you assist it with the macro extension tubes.

If I can't figure out how to find a workable setting, I may have to splurge for the 105mm "micro" lens you mention. On that note, and just for the hell of it, can you pleae tell me the difference between these 2 lenses ($100 difference in price but they look superficially the same):

Amazon.com

https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-AF-S-Micro-NIKKOR-105mm-IF-ED/dp/B000EOSHGQ?th=1

With your D3400, the first lens (less expensive) cannot autofocus at all. It uses the screw-drive system that your camera body does not have. You are forced to manually focus. The more expensive option is the correct one to autofocus on your camera body.

And this is a link for the macro extension tubes we have been taking about. Much lower cost option. Keep in mind if you seek out the cheaper under $20 versions they tend to not have the pass-through data connectors that allow the lens to talk to the D3400 and autofocus.

Amazon.com

One last note - Even though Nikon specs the minimum focus distance at 9.8 inches be aware this certainly is at the max zoom of 55mm.

When you say:
"Even though Nikon specs the minimum focus distance at 9.8 inches be aware this certainly is at the max zoom of 55mm."
I'm a little confused. At this veryclose-in distance, NOTHING is in focus at the 55mm lens setting. I have to go to 18mm - just the opposite !! Maybe I'm not understanding something.

 

[MoreCowbell]

I appreciate all review comments.

To be clear:

1. All pictures I have posted are “hand-held”.
2. No wind.
3. The jalapeño pic is, imho, the best close shot attainable with my lens.

To Clovis:

1. When you say “I notice you choose to shoot many at full wide angle. “ I’m not sure what you mean. For the images I posted, I simply come in as close as possible while trying to maintain focus.
2. You also commented on the high ISO setting for the A-priority pic. In this mode, I only adjusted the F-stop up as high as possible (per BF’s advice above). I don’t remember any way to also tweak the ISO value. In this mode, ISO 3200 was chosen by the camera. Maybe I’m missing something.

To Needa:

“The difference I see with the clammyweed and the jalapeño is the frame is not filled, excluding the setting differences.”

I think you’re referring to the clammyweed pic, which isn’t very clear. For that pic, I came in as close as possible while trying to remain I focus. For some reason, the jalapeño pic just came out better in several aspects. As I said above, I simply come in as close as possible while trying to maintain focus.

 

[Clovishound]

4 of the 6 shots were shot at 18mm. If you were at minimum focus distance with these shots, at 18mm you will have far less magnification of the subject than shooting from the same distance and using the maximum focal length of this lens, which is 55mm. Your first jalapeño shot was taken at 18mm, and includes a lot of the plant and background. The next two were taken at 48mm and fill the frame with the pepper. Not all shots need to fill the frame with a small object, but that is what I understand you are attempting to do, and is generally considered to be the point of closeup photography. When using a zoom lens choosing a focal length setting is as crucial to framing an object as is focus distance. If you are looking to fill the frame with a small object, then choosing a longer focal length will help you do that, unless you are using something else to decrease minimum focusing distance.

If you aren't happy with the ISO setting in the closeup mode, you can change it by going into the menu and manually choosing the ISO you desire. The camera will then choose exposure settings at that ISO. I'm sure that your camera is currently in auto ISO mode. If you manually set the ISO, it will stay at that setting unless you switch to Auto Mode on the mode dial. It should then switch back to your selected ISO when you switch out of Auto Mode to any of the modes, like Aperture preferred, or closeup.

Regardless of the mode you are in, you need to pay attention to the exposure settings you are getting and make changes as necessary. You should find a mode that works best for you, your shooting style and what you are shooting. I use manual with auto ISO for most of my bird shooting. That works well for me, but I do have to watch what is happening with the ISO and sometimes change the shutter speed, or perhaps aperture. When I am shooting macro, I use full manual for everything when I'm using flash. If I switch to an available light macro shot, I normally switch to aperture preferred with manual ISO. These modes work for me. They may not work well for you.