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Fred I brought it up because Luminar can outright replace the sky on a photo (and it could be half of the actual photo) with a sky that exists only within the software. So the spirit of the rule being that all parts would have to originally be photographed within the time-frame of the contest...

Yeah, I thought it might be an issue that deserves consideration sooner than too late.

I only took a few. Have a gimpy knee since I took a fall on ice on the 19th.

Remember there are multiple versions of the 70-300. Mine had the screw-drive autofocus that required a D80 or better to use AF. It was slow to focus, poor contrast, soft image, and too much coma artifacts. But I was still working my way up the lens food-chain back then. It's why I am being very...

When I had DX bodies (D80, D7000) I stayed with DX lenses on the wide to normal end. But all my telephoto lenses were FX. And I am still using most of those telephoto lenses since moving to a D750 and a Z5. So 10 years ago I would typically use a Tamron 18-270mm all-in-one zoom (DX) plus an...

Would that be a broad-enough rule to also include an AI sky-replacement? Not that I have Luminar installed on my computer anymore.

From the help topic here about linking to media: Looks like Instagram is not an option. Odd that TikTok is an option. I think you are limited to vertical format video there. I have looked and you can upload and share video to Nikon Image Space. But linking is not as easy there. Anybody who...

Windows Live Movie Maker was one of the easiest ways to do this back in Windows 7 days. I have not really tried for a few years now. I try to use Blender now but don't really understand it that well. Video is a weakness for me. For Youtube, never use commercial music. They will remove the...

Now I can see a story being told.

Oh I have several spots that catch my eye but there just isn't a photograph that can be made. Sometimes I try to imagine composures for years before I give up.

Balanced, but it could use an object to be a focal point of interest. Otherwise there is no story narrative being created by my imagination.

The error message is so you leave the aperture ring at f/32 as that is needed so the newer cameras can automatically change aperture. As for autofocus I would say having to use manual focus for macro work is fine as long as you work from a tripod. If you are hand-holding and trying to do this...

FX is a camera body with a full-frame sensor, meaning that the sensor is the same size as 35mm film. DX is a camera body with an APS-C sensor. This is the equivalent size of the Kodak Advantix "Advanced Photo System" film from the 1990's. It is smaller in size than 35mm and it "crops" the image...

https://www.imaging-resource.com/lenses/nikon/80-400mm-f4.5-5.6g-ed-vr-af-s-nikkor/review/ F mount with an internal autofocus motor, so it will work on a D5500. OK, I see now. It's a lens I never really paid attention too. Reason being is that for a lot less money you can pick up the Tamron or...

80-400mm sounds like a micro-four-thirds size lens. That makes 160-800mm full frame equivalent, and 120-600mm equivalent on DX crop sensor like the D5500. Am I misreading your question? It's an odd zoom range.

Clovis, don't you sometimes wish that Nikon would make that Z body viewfinder so it could swivel up and be used like the old-type 90-degree viewfinder adapters? Or swivel to any angle between 0 and 90? It's a trick many mini-camcorders featured with their EVF in decades gone by. I think it...

Where you have the camera during this time is not shared. Is this in your car parked out in freezing cold?

I have used the wet swabs on DSLR sensors and my Z5. Yes, try to blow off with a rocket blower first. Honestly, the Z bodies are very easy to clean by swab. You remove the lens and the sensor is right there and close to the opening. No inspection light needed. It also helps to turn on the auto...

I have a wristwatch collection. I also play with skill toys such as yo-yos and spin tops. I do it less in recent years. Have some trophies from contests.

Yes, doing an exposure stretch similar to how I enhance astrophotography images looks like a good way here. What it involves is the Color Levels tool (in GIMP, have no idea what they call it in Adobe-speak) where you see the histogram and a slider with 3 pointers on it. Move the left and right...