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This time in Georgetown, DC. Gallery

Nikkor 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 VR + Filters Works great, perfect cosmetically (might be some minor dust inside, but that's how I got it and there was no difference in IQ). Comes with the original carrying bag/case as well. Throwing in 67mm Kenko Circular Polarizer and a set of Diopters (1,2,4,10)...

Desire to to to shoot some static things drove me to pick this guy up and work on the kit some more, and now he's finally looking proper enough for some shots. Also been another minute since I did any real 'shopping of anything, so that always brings back good memories. Perfect Grade Aile...

Suppose I'll do this one as my #1:

Thoroughly impressed with 70-200 minus the lack of reach.

Of taking apart the whole 50 f/2 just to realize that removing the aperture ring only requires taking out its set screw and unscrewing it right off the back of the lens. Go me... lol Flip side I'll take some nice pics of the whole AI conversion after I get back and finish it up.

LOL @aroy If you want low-cost FX you get used bodies, D-series or AI-S glass, and work your way up if you feel the need to. You're saying, lets put a Porsche engine in a Civic for those who don't want the appropriate suspension and aerodynamics that make a Porsche a Porsche instead of a Civic...

So thinking of getting one of the 50s to own a low-light piece without attempting to home-brew my 50/2 H to Ai (though not a bad thought either, and isn't extremely difficult for me). So, grab a 50/1.8D locally for $100 and call it a day. Ebay 50/1.4D and call it a day. BestBuy 1.8G and call...

105's are, @RocketCowboy. The 40 Macro is DX as is 85 f/3.5. 60mm is FX. Personally if money is less of an issue, go for the 100/105s (Tokina, Nikkor, Tamron), even better Sigma 150mm. Else Tamron 90 SP, whether the newer Di or the older version that still has internal 1:1 ratio. The rest is...

Any body that has the ability to couple with the manual aperture ring to help with exposure will need Ai cutout or you'll break that coupling piece/lens won't mount. IF you don't have that like everything <7x00 series, no worries whatsoever but no metering or any help from camera past focus dot...

Even checking out a big local shop still left me completely at a stand-still as to what bag could suit me. My criteria are: fit all my main junk (70-200, 24-85, 90 macro, SB910 (+probably a YN565EX), d600, and 12" laptop plus all the little things like batteries and so on. Preferably nicely...

1 and only 1 (that you own), and why. My would probably be 45/2.8 Ai-P : CPU MF lens with decent enough FOV and aperture, profile that you can put in your back pocket and not even notice it, and if that "mechanical" CPU does happen to fail it becomes (hopefully) an Ai lens with an aperture...

Polarizing filters test - Results and summary - Lenstip.com I know what I'm buying now for ~70-80$ less. lol

Flash and body compensates and adjusts for that. You DO need to know your flash and distance, but if you own it, it should be like the back of your hand. @eal1 space and place only really dictates whether you can get away w/ the diffuser, use the bounce card/built-in diffuser/spreader. Darker...

After thinking about getting some sort of studio setup, I came to the conclusion that I will need something portable since ability to bring the noise to the client should help a great deal than having a home studio. So essentially the debate will be between getting an umbrella/set or some kind...

@Vinnydude always think from client perspective on these things. Say I'm a band and am looking for a photog. I have 10 band photography sites in my google hits. (say they're all good so any one will do it for me). I go to your site - walls of text before I even see tiny thumbs in your folio...

La Jolla beach.

SoCal meets 70-200 VR1.