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Well there we go, a misunderstanding about what tethering is. The classic meaning of tethered photography is where you control functions of the camera remotely from a computer, and you may or may not preview the photos on screen. I tend to do astrophotography by reviewing the test photos on...

Forgot I took this infrared last year. And from 2 years ago, another infrared.

Use the USB cable to write the files to your card in the Z8. I believe it is a normal USB-C connector.

You better get a name of who is tethering the D2X because all that I find online is that it is impossible with a model that old. NX Tether can only use Z models, D780, and D6. DigiCamControl will work with multiple brands and models, but even that can only go back to the D3X. Only with a wire...

The color version with the sun above horizon finally speaks to me. I see where you are going with the BW versions, but just not quite getting there. When you take away the color you almost need turbulence in the water to add contrast to the more tranquil tree.

Comet over Madison, WI. A very over-exposed Wisconsin state capitol dome there.

A follow-up, here is the Laowa lens I mentioned in the previous post, and it comes in F-mount...

I have to say it. That is comically ridiculous! 2 or 3 extension tubes is reasonable. There are other ways for even closer work. First is to use a 200-300mm lens with 2 or 3 extension tubes. I have seen a super-macro lens out there by a Chinese brand. I think it is for mirrorless bodies, not...

That is the secret sauce. 60 to 100 images will work well. Look up Autostacker or Sequitor (spelling?) Depending on Mac or PC. And try to take a couple with your landscape exposed the way you like so you can layer that on top after the main process. You can ignore star trails for that one. Ps...

That's a comet all right there @Clovishound . Not a bad try at the Milky Way either. I am guessing no exposure stack?

Look at the bottom of the screen of Stellarium mobile. On my Android phone I find a small compass. I believe I touched it and lingered on that touch a bit and it started moving the view as I moved the phone. Touch the sky and scroll, the tracking stops.

Back on original question: I believe Cygnus is top edge-center and NAN is just off frame up. But it is really hard to pick that out. Had to go back and forth between Stellarium and the photos many times looking for the patterns in photo #1. And I just discovered you can point-view Stellarium...

For reference kind of as you ask for. However the software I was using back then tended to strip off the EXIF data. Orion with a 90mm Tamron lens. Belt at the top gives the reference for the Orion Nebula lower down. Bottom right is also another star of the visible constellation. Found...

Orion nebula is the most visible nebula in sky. You would likely mistake it for a star in the "dagger" below Orion's belt. It is easy to over-expose it. In winter Orion is the dominant constellation and most people learn to recognize it like the big dipper. There are certain other constellations...

Maybe consider a less-ambitious target without a tracker. Jupiter and Saturn are actually fairly easy as long as you can keep the planet in the FOV as you work. Orion Nebula also since it is so visible bare-eyed. I just took a trip down memory lane from 2019 which is shortly before buying my...

A massive vignette. Really ought to use a tracker on multi-second exposures at telephoto length. This is most needed at the elliptical plane. I did my comet photos without tracking, and at 70mm anything above 1 second had trails. I also forgot to flip off the VR switch so that added to my problems.

Mirror stuck? Maybe even mirror-up mode (MUP) turned on by accident? That is a mode that requires you to push the shutter button once to raise the mirror, then push a 2nd time to take the photo. It is intended to eliminate shake from the mirror slapping up on a tripod long exposure.

On Z mount everyone is getting the Nikon Z180-600mm. The demand is so high Nikon actually raised the MSRP a couple months ago! I do not remember seeing that on a new lens before.

Missing some information here. Vintage lenses? Adapting non-Nikon F lens maybe? Canon lenses hold the aperture closed unmounted while Nikon holds it open. So before my mind goes wild imagining the possibilities, please share the type and model of that problem 300mm lens.

I believe your camera is behaving as "normal", meaning it is not compensating your display to see the image knowing that a speedlight will be used. Is it a Nikon speedlight or other brand? I don't use Manual mode with a flash, so I have not tried that on my Z5. But if you did not have a flash...