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Aircraft have strobing lights so they give the streaks with "balls". Solid steaks that don't vary in intensity normally are satellites. Starlink being the biggest offender. Meteors are much faster and brief, usually a fade-in and/or fade-out. Not such a solid intensity on the line. I only see 1...

Loved the hummingbirds. Please leave earwigs alone. ;)

Just for you I put a fresh battery in my D750, turned on wifi, connected my Motorola phone to that wifi. D750 showed immediately in Snapbridge, with working photo transfer and remote operation. Snapbridge has replaced the old Nikon Wireless app and seems to work with the older cameras still.

When I bought my Z5, I bought the FTZ adapter knowing full well I would have to use my older F-mount lenses during a slow transition period. I did buy the 24-70mm f/4 right away (used, about $550 at that time) as I decided that was the right starting point. The Z24-120mm f/4 was not quite...

I'm mostly echoing Needa. I used to use the D7000. Newer bodies will have more dynamic range and a newer full-frame sensor will allow you to use higher ISO than you would think is possible. Even a D750 could do better. Not only was your model's top an exposure problem, but her fair skin also...

Finishing the work day late 85 miles from home. I did a bit of exploring for photos near Montfort, WI. There are wind turbines and solar farms in the hills here. I wanted to add a bit of motion into the turbine blades, but I really needed ND filters to accomplish that better.

A couple of minutes is no real worry of mine. But I adjust at DST change. I also noticed connecting to Snapbridge app 2 weeks ago that synching time was a check box for Bluetooth.

Authentic versus cheap counterfeit.

I am just adding a placeholder for later with a cellphone photo I took this month. I shot nothing but film for the month. I dropped off the film for processing today and was informed it might be 3 weeks until it gets done. B/W film apparently is done at a slower work pace. Film scan, Nikon N70...

I might be too proud to edit away the poo also. 😃

Z24-70mm f/2.8 is the best there is for that focal range. But if the price makes you balk, a Z24-70mm f/4 is the next one to consider. Shop used and the price can be as low as $500. They go up or down according to supply.. I also use the Z MC 105mm f/2.8 for macro. But if you prefer the 200mm...

Double-tapped the post button.

Congrats. I want a Z8 as my next camera, but l made a choice to upgrade more lenses to Z-mount before moving up from a Z5. In general the EVF viewfinder is an adjustment to make. Don't forget the button on the side of the EVF is easy to touch accidentally and cycles through view modes. And the...

The camera will go to a low-power mode if left on and not used. I have left DSLR's on for hours at least. I expect I have sometime in the past accidentally left a camera body turned on for several days in a storage bag.

@hark : I read this as his 70-200mm f/2.8 lens as the problem. Aperture opening should not be the issue. It's worth trying to clean the electrical contacts in the mount of the lens and camera body. Use cleaner applied to a swab if you can. Lint-free cloth otherwise. But I also suspect it could...

I don't believe I have that sensitivity option on my Z5. It simply works with whatever scene I have tried. What is in focus is outlined in yellow in the viewfinder and monitor.

I think Hark was just recommending to duplicate the photo into a 2nd layer and process the denoise differently on each layer. Aggressive denoise to become the background and the bird layer you tone down the denoise so sharp detail is preserved. Add a layer mask and paint it to reveal the layer...

You set high standards for yourself. I have been guilty of doing that also sometimes. But in this case I would be overjoyed by that photo. I do have to hold myself back from over-processing with the noise reduction when I am working with high-ISO photos. I just try to remember that some of that...

It's not the expense as much as it's what it does to photos. Unless you must use a polarizer to take out glare, or ND filters to use slower shutter speed, or use specialty filters for taking photos of the sun, filters are a bad idea to just put on a lens under the guise of protection. A UV...

I never use UV filters on digital anymore. CPL only for taking some glare off of water mainly.