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There also is a substantial difference in burst mode shutter release for all those action wildlife photos.

Rereading the thread, I'm not sure there will be a right answer for you. You tried a ZF out and because of that any lesser system is not a consideration. I have had the D750 and a D7000 at the same time, the sizes are very close to each other. A D7200 would be also of similar size. Now we would...

Have you outright rejected DX format Z mount bodies? Z50 is a more compact option and the ZFc even loses the extra grip area. I would say it would still be an upgrade to some beater D7200.

Try omitting the slash at the end.

I have not seen any Z to F adapter. Z lenses mount far closer to the sensor in a mirrorless body so there is the issue of focus point. Sigma and Tamron 150-600mm lenses are well respected and even less expensive new. They do extend length as they zoom but otherwise very similar to the Z lens...

The Amazon listing is still there but unavailable. But there are some things I notice with the Vello grip that make me wonder why they even bothered to bring it to market in the first place. Vello BG-N18 The biggest thing I notice is this grip requires you to remove the battery and battery...

Z5 Z105mm f/2.8 macro plus extension ring Aperture-Priority, f/36, auto-ISO (10000), 1/125s taken 11-5-2023 Now I have to call the dentist Monday morning. Not planned, I swear!

Shutter speed. The solar filter will come off during totality. There should be no need to hunt for the speed I was using on the ante-total phase during post-total. This will also apply to the second body I will have on a star-tracker taking a time-lapse.

I have not bothered to really program my User settings, even though I have had them for 3 camera bodies now. I should preset my watch macro settings as I do that often, but I also have them memorized well so not a priority. But for the April eclipse, I will be using the U settings. Very short...

Take Ginko Biloba! Of course you have to remember to take the Ginko to make it work... :D

The 2 photos presented cannot be compared like that. The question is really for a lab like imaging-resource.com to measure in a controlled setting. As presented here we have one image at f/8, 500mm and another shot at f/6.3, 600mm. For purely technical reasons, that puts the 600mm f/6.3 shot at...

2nd is only sharper due to having the cardinal having a "flatter" profile in the focus plane. And I can see the exif data anyhow so I can see why it has an advantage for being sharp front to rear above and beyond that.

I've been watching this thread as I worked today, waited to see the images on a larger screen to chime in. I don't actually think you have a problem with a soft image that is not sharp. You could use some more contrast and a little more black level value. I see good detail in things like bricks...

He was not offered enough for trade in when buying the Z8 so he wants what the retail store would try to charge.

A little fall color from 10-24-2023. Trying to be up-close and personal with the trees.

You can make a reasonable home-made filter. That solar film material in the cardboard glasses can be purchased in larger sheets on Amazon and other places. It can be cut and used to make multiple filters for different lenses. Save some scrap cardboard and a roll of duct tape to make them. Cut a...

Nice Bob. This was my view at peak (44%). No solar filter required. :cry:

.In 2020 I took photos of the AZ-GTi and the parts that convert it to equatorial tracking. Today I have it converted back to Alt-Azimuth configuration for solar eclipse (easier to polar align that way when no Polaris visible). But I have rain and all cloudy in my forecast October 14 so it looks...

I don't exactly use a star tracker. I have an Alt-azimuth goto mount, Skywatcher AZ-GTi. But Skywatcher has alternate equatorial mode firmware and there are tutorials out there on what equatorial wedge and counter-weights to buy to do the conversion. Skywatcher specifically warns it is not...