Difference between on-cam flash vs trigger
- Thread starter hulk2012
- Start date
The on camera flash needs to see the flash it is setting off. It works by line of site. So if your 910 is in an umbrella next to or behind you and you take a shot. Chances are the 910 wont fire because it can't see the on camera flash to tell it to. Also in bright sun light this setup has the same limitations. The brighter the environment the less likely the 910 will see the on camera flash trigger. Radio triggers work by sending radio signals to your 910 and don't require line of site to work. You can have your flash stuck inside a cardboard box and it will fire. Plus radio triggers have more than 3-4 times the range. I use the Pocket wizard Mini and flex and their range is I think 1500 ft. Something the "commander, remote " mode couldn't begin to do.
BackdoorArts
Senior Member
What FastGlass said. Many situations allow for the other flash to see the trigger flash, but I much prefer the idea that an RF signal doesn't worry about line of sight. If you don't want to invest in Pocket Wizards, I use a Vello Freewave system, and it doubles as a remote trigger for the camera as well, so it's two tools in one. Very convenient.
I purchased a set of the Yongnuo RF-603 radio trigger transceivers and they have worked perfectly so far. Build quality is not that of the Pocket Wizards or some of the other brands but they are not flimsy at all.
They also will work as a remote shutter release and trigger multiple flash units all at once.
While I wouldn't necessarily recommend them to someone doing professional work they are perfect for a hobbyist or for learning.
They also will work as a remote shutter release and trigger multiple flash units all at once.
While I wouldn't necessarily recommend them to someone doing professional work they are perfect for a hobbyist or for learning.
There's a confusion in the use of the word "wireless." Wireless can be Radio Frequency (RF) or Infra Red (IR) driven. The Nikon speed lights in the remote mode are fired by the light from the master unit, whether it's another speed light on the camera or the built in pop up unit, it's still require that the remote unit has a direct line of sight to the camera. It fact it's has to be the direct line of sight to the little red sensor window on the left side of the SB700, 800, 900, 910 unit. If you mount the unit with the sensor window facing away from the master, it may not fire or get the necessary info from the camera during the preflash stage. If you look at the sensor window on the SB910/80/700 you'll notice it's covered with a very dark red lens - that's because it only uses the very far red part of the light spectrum to fire - not quite Infra Red (IR) but very close to it - so it's usually referred to as IR and that's how the Nikon CLS system works in wireless mode.
The addon remote units like the Yonguo or Pocket wizards fires using Radio Frequency (RF) at 2.4 Ghz and so there's no need for line of sight - the remote speed light can be inside a soft box or even in another room!
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Ok I understand that but in my situation debating whether to get pocket wizard of not is quite frustrating. Especially after watching 3hr of nikon tutorial teaching how to use their speedlight CLS System control by master in the nikon camera. Guy is shooting indoor as well as outdoor and remotely being able to tweak/adjust every setting to every speedlight. He is also using unlimited amount of them in 3 groups playing with their individually. Amazing. Not sure if after investing into pocket wizard (one for each speedlight) won't limit the futures of nikon CLS. Especially adjusting/tweaking them remotely when u sitting and they are on high tripod far away etc...
My aim is to be as remote/compact as possible and that's shooting portraits on location rather being bound to my studio waiting for the client to turn up etc. Today people are already busy enough and I think my remote service turning up in clients house with mobile studio will be win win for both parties. Therefore I am trying to get as mobile as possible while buying my gear. So far I've got sb910, d800 and 3 prime G lenses. Not sure what's next and that's the point. Some advising on anther few nikon speed lights, some invest in consistent light (soft boxes)..
I'm a bit confused here to be honest...
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Ah.. I see. so this is what you need! It's a RF wireless transmitter unit that will not just trigger the remotes but actually will transmit all the data of the Nikon CLS to the remote so it's just like using the native CLS, wired or IR wireless. If you decide to forego the CLS and use manual mode, this transceiver will let you set the power level of the remotes remotely without having to walk over to them! I have the Yongnuo "dumb" RF trigger system and I'm going to buy this one soon. IMHO, Pocket wizards are just way overpriced but I do have just one transmitter unit since all the studios equipment I encounter (rent or ask to work in) in my gigs requires PW for triggering their lightings. But for my own speed lights, I have a few Youngnuo transceivers - best thing about them other than low price, is they also work as remote shutter triggers too.
I can tell you for sure from experience that outdoors in a sunny day, the IR wireless CLS does not work reliably - I was shooting on the beach in the Florida keys last August with just my pop up as commander and two SB700's as remotes fill-in flash and after each shot, I have to ask my models if both lights fired - it's embarrassing as their perception was that I showed up at a photo shoot with unreliable amateurish equipment. :apologetic: The sun was so bright I couldn't even do chimping (need to buy a viewing hood for the LCD for that situation!) Also, as I was flying to travel to the shoot, I brought only umbrellas and using long lens when I'm further away from the subject than my umbrellas, I can only use them in shoot-thru mode otherwise in the reflecting mode, the umbrellas would block the line-of-sight from my camera's pop to my speed light's sensor.
FYI, this is the book I highly recommend for learning about the Nikon CLS and how to use it well.
I can tell you for sure from experience that outdoors in a sunny day, the IR wireless CLS does not work reliably - I was shooting on the beach in the Florida keys last August with just my pop up as commander and two SB700's as remotes fill-in flash and after each shot, I have to ask my models if both lights fired - it's embarrassing as their perception was that I showed up at a photo shoot with unreliable amateurish equipment. :apologetic: The sun was so bright I couldn't even do chimping (need to buy a viewing hood for the LCD for that situation!) Also, as I was flying to travel to the shoot, I brought only umbrellas and using long lens when I'm further away from the subject than my umbrellas, I can only use them in shoot-thru mode otherwise in the reflecting mode, the umbrellas would block the line-of-sight from my camera's pop to my speed light's sensor.
FYI, this is the book I highly recommend for learning about the Nikon CLS and how to use it well.
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