D7000 + sb-700

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Don Kuykendall_RIP

RIP :(
I have read the tutorials on the Commander mode and I have used it on camera indoors and out BUT I am not having any luck shooting it off camera indoors. They always come out DARK. The flash is firing correctly as far as I can tell.

I want to be able to use it as the main light source off camera indoors and fill outdoors. I also have light stands and umbrellas so I would like to be able use it right now as a single light source. I will fill in with additional units later.

What setting on the camera and flash do I need to be using.
 
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WayneF

Senior Member
Maybe your definition of dark would help, but as a general vague rule of thumb, normally the Commander does need about +1 EV Flash Compensation. It always seems a good idea to simply start with +1 EV FC, and then maybe tweak it up or down a bit as needed.

Also, you will get a small difference by using FV Lock or not. And another small difference using Spot Metering (which is NOT Spot metering for flash, but it does convert to TTL mode instead of TTL BL mode).

Also, the camera flash ready light in viewfinder does not receive communication from the remote flash, so it is only a vague guess, and you won't see the three blinks indicating insufficient flash power for the requested situation. You have to watch the ready led on the flash itself. Or, easier, you can enable the beeping to indicate this.

See Using the Nikon CLS Remote Wireless Flash System for more detail about using the Commander.
 
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WayneF

Senior Member
Too dark to see is something else, a sync problem (not simply underexposure). Was the flash actually firing?

Wild guess - Possibly you may be confusing SU-4 Remote mode with wireless Remote for commander? Nikon likes to call both of them Remote. That could easily explain it.

The remote flash must be in its REMOTE mode (not in TTL mode and NOT SU-4 mode). Then ALL controls are in the Commander menu (nothing on the flash except Channel and Group).

See this Nikon Fast Start for detailed SB-700 instructions.
http://www.nikonusa.com/en_INC/IMG/Assets/Common-Assets/PDF/FastTrack_To_WirelessSpeedlights.pdf

(down the page a bit, NOT Master, but Remote)

If flash is farther than 4 or 5 feet from camera, care must be taken to rotate the flash body so that the sensor by flash door points back at the commander on camera. Must be clear direct line of sight.
 
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Don Kuykendall_RIP

RIP :(
WayneF said:
Too dark to see is something else, a sync problem (not simply underexposure). Was the flash actually firing?

Wild guess - Possibly you may be confusing SU-4 Remote mode with wireless Remote for commander? Nikon likes to call both of them Remote. That could easily explain it.

The remote flash must be in its REMOTE mode (not in TTL mode and NOT SU-4 mode). Then ALL controls are in the Commander menu (nothing on the flash except Channel and Group).

See this Nikon Fast Start for detailed SB-700 instructions.
http://www.nikonusa.com/en_INC/IMG/Assets/Common-Assets/PDF/FastTrack_To_WirelessSpeedlights.pdf

(down the page a bit, NOT Master, but Remote)

If flash is farther than 4 or 5 feet from camera, care must be taken to rotate the flash body so that the sensor by flash door points back at the commander on camera. Must be clear direct line of sight.
Click to expand...

It was in Remote, flash did fire. I I understand it correctly the SU-4 mode is for firing when it sees another flash and is not commander mode. I originally had the shutter speed on the camera set at 1/250sec and then changed it to 1/60 just to see if that was the problem. I am normally pretty good and reading and following instructions and have read a number of articles and watched several Youtube videos but I know I am missing something entirely.

I also knoe the difference in MAster and Remote. Mine would be remote since the D7000 and act as the master (with or without the onboard flash firing but always open to fire the commander signal)
 
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WayneF

Senior Member
I dunno then, it should "simply just work" with the "Wireless Remote" instructions in that Nikon Quick Start PDF. Something else must be significant, but I have no clue. The PDF is pretty specific, double check it carefully.

Any normal problem is about failing to trigger at all (line of sight, bright sun, etc).

The flash you set to call Group A is controlled by Group A in the Commander.

Right, SU-4 is a simple optical slave (an excellent one), which is a manual flash mode, and it cannot be used with the complicated Commander signals.

Back on "dark" again - do you see any visible effect of the flash in the pictures? Shadows, etc? Or is it the same as no flash at all?
 
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Don Kuykendall_RIP

RIP :(
I changed metering on the camera over to Matrix from spot and it does not seem to make much difference. One thing about shooting today is that there is more ambient light today and the photos look pretty good. You can see the flash effect in the shadows where at night in a darker room the effect was not noticeable. Going to try it again tonight
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WayneF

Senior Member
Spot metering just changes the default TTL BL to be TTL (flash does not do Spot metering). There ought not be any difference inside (dim ambient), but normally there is a difference, often better.

Glad it is going better. The need for +1 EV flash compensation for TTL BL Commander is common and routine.

Again, if trying something impossible like bounce flash at f/16, you will not see the three warning flashes in the Ready light on the camera (to know it is underexposing). Remote communication is one way (from the camera), so the camera does not know about that. It shows Ready after awhile, but it has no clue about reality. You have to watch the Ready LED on the remote flash unit, or easier, program it to listen to the beeps.
 
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WayneF

Senior Member
Don Kuykendall said:
I really want to stay away from radio triggers. I want simplicity. That is the reason I went up to the D7000 and staying with Nikon Flashes. Gives me the best chance of everything working like I want it to.
Click to expand...

Me too. Radio triggers are OK, they work, with the obvious advantages of range and obstacles and sunlight, but are gross overkill in most situations, certainly indoors. All those extra connections to make, and the batteries to replace... :) My notion could be different if a pro traveling to varied unknown locations, but for me at home, just simply not needed.

And Commander is great, but it also obviously has its limitations too, line of sight, distance, sunlight, expandability.. but generally gives little problem indoors. Certainly is a fast setup.

I much prefer optical slave triggers. Already provided in many cases, and they are triggered by the full working power of the any one of the others (as opposed to minimum level for Commander). Just never ANY issue in a studio portrait or tabletop situation. Manual flash of course, same as radio triggers.
 
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Don Kuykendall_RIP

RIP :(
WayneF said:
Me too. Radio triggers are OK, they work, with the obvious advantages of range and obstacles and sunlight, but are gross overkill in most situations, certainly indoors. All those extra connections to make, and the batteries to replace... :) My notion could be different if a pro traveling to varied unknown locations, but for me at home, just simply not needed.

And Commander is great, but it also obviously has its limitations too, line of sight, distance, sunlight, expandability.. but generally gives little problem indoors. Certainly is a fast setup.

I much prefer optical slave triggers. Already provided in many cases, and they are triggered by the full working power of the any one of the others (as opposed to minimum level for Commander). Just never ANY issue in a studio portrait or tabletop situation. Manual flash of course, same as radio triggers.
Click to expand...

I agree. Most of what I will be doing for now is flash fill in sunny areas. Will have wife holding the flash for a couple of shots and we will both be close. Off camera will fill in the shadows much nicer. Will probably have the flash set for -exposure so it will not look so much like I filled it in. Indoors either bounce to fill a room or either with umbrella off to one side of the camera slightly down on subject. I really don't see me doing much studio type work any time in the near future. Might grab one of the wife once in a while or maybe a good one of my mom some time. Mom is 87 years old now so a really good photo of here might be a nice thing to do soon.
 
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ShootRaw

Senior Member
Its is essential for me and my clients...I have the Mini TT1 and TT5flex..
Don't have to worry about line of sight or range..Fires everytime..I understand it isn't for everyone..Something to keep in mind is that extra light you are getting from the pop up flash as well..I do not want or need that in my shots..
 
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Don Kuykendall_RIP

RIP :(
ShootRaw said:
Its is essential for me and my clients...I have the Mini TT1 and TT5flex..
Don't have to worry about line of sight or range..Fires everytime..I understand it isn't for everyone..Something to keep in mind is that extra light you are getting from the pop up flash as well..I do not want or need that in my shots..
Click to expand...

I can turn off the built in flash with the D7000 so it does not add to the shot. If I do decide I want it I can also turn down the level to -1 or -2 so it does not add much.
 
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